Other motor
07-27-06, 10:34 AM
#1
silver7
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Other motor
I know some off you going to jump on me for asking this question but before you do, I have been a rotory fan since the first gen. I owned a 3rd gen for 8 yrs with my 2nd engine. With my 2nd motor only have 40k+ miles on it, it's having a coolant seal problem. It's too costly just to do rebuild might as well buy a street port. I have been reading a lot about people having bad coolent seal. It's poorly made seal or designed.
So, it come to this question what other motor fits to the 3rd REX nicely without having to do any or major modification to the engine bay?
PS. My REX I put over $15K of mod running at 400hp. I only put about 150 EASY miles on this engine before the coolant problem.
Thanks,
So, it come to this question what other motor fits to the 3rd REX nicely without having to do any or major modification to the engine bay?
PS. My REX I put over $15K of mod running at 400hp. I only put about 150 EASY miles on this engine before the coolant problem.
Thanks,
you'll need a subframe for them and some $.
07-27-06, 11:40 AM
#3
I can't understand what happened.
Are you having coolant seal trouble with the 40k old rebuild?
Or are you having coolant seal trouble with the 150 mile old rebuild? If so, you have a bum motor and you should take up the issue with whoever sold it to you.
Why would a streetported rebuilt motor cost less than a stock rebuilt motor? Or are you comparing something different, like a used streetport vs. rebuilding a stock motor?
Since it seems that you're trying to get a rebuild on a very tight budget, I don't see how changing engines will help. You'll have to deal with the wiring, accessories, exhaust fitment, etc.
As for the poor design of the coolant seals, it's a pretty straightforward issue: heat kills them. Heat comes from boost, so if you want it to last longer, lower your boost and keep the coolant temps down some with reliability mods. Driving the car gently while it warms up, driving it gently before you park it, helps a lot too. When you're getting 400hp out of the engine, 40k is doing well for the coolant seals. Even at stock power, 60-100k is a reasonable life expectancy.
Dave
Are you having coolant seal trouble with the 40k old rebuild?
Or are you having coolant seal trouble with the 150 mile old rebuild? If so, you have a bum motor and you should take up the issue with whoever sold it to you.
Why would a streetported rebuilt motor cost less than a stock rebuilt motor? Or are you comparing something different, like a used streetport vs. rebuilding a stock motor?
Since it seems that you're trying to get a rebuild on a very tight budget, I don't see how changing engines will help. You'll have to deal with the wiring, accessories, exhaust fitment, etc.
As for the poor design of the coolant seals, it's a pretty straightforward issue: heat kills them. Heat comes from boost, so if you want it to last longer, lower your boost and keep the coolant temps down some with reliability mods. Driving the car gently while it warms up, driving it gently before you park it, helps a lot too. When you're getting 400hp out of the engine, 40k is doing well for the coolant seals. Even at stock power, 60-100k is a reasonable life expectancy.
Dave
07-27-06, 12:57 PM
#4
silver7
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Originally Posted by dgeesaman
I can't understand what happened.
Are you having coolant seal trouble with the 40k old rebuild?
Or are you having coolant seal trouble with the 150 mile old rebuild? If so, you have a bum motor and you should take up the issue with whoever sold it to you.
Why would a streetported rebuilt motor cost less than a stock rebuilt motor? Or are you comparing something different, like a used streetport vs. rebuilding a stock motor?
Since it seems that you're trying to get a rebuild on a very tight budget, I don't see how changing engines will help. You'll have to deal with the wiring, accessories, exhaust fitment, etc.
As for the poor design of the coolant seals, it's a pretty straightforward issue: heat kills them. Heat comes from boost, so if you want it to last longer, lower your boost and keep the coolant temps down some with reliability mods. Driving the car gently while it warms up, driving it gently before you park it, helps a lot too. When you're getting 400hp out of the engine, 40k is doing well for the coolant seals. Even at stock power, 60-100k is a reasonable life expectancy.
Dave
Are you having coolant seal trouble with the 40k old rebuild?
Or are you having coolant seal trouble with the 150 mile old rebuild? If so, you have a bum motor and you should take up the issue with whoever sold it to you.
Why would a streetported rebuilt motor cost less than a stock rebuilt motor? Or are you comparing something different, like a used streetport vs. rebuilding a stock motor?
Since it seems that you're trying to get a rebuild on a very tight budget, I don't see how changing engines will help. You'll have to deal with the wiring, accessories, exhaust fitment, etc.
As for the poor design of the coolant seals, it's a pretty straightforward issue: heat kills them. Heat comes from boost, so if you want it to last longer, lower your boost and keep the coolant temps down some with reliability mods. Driving the car gently while it warms up, driving it gently before you park it, helps a lot too. When you're getting 400hp out of the engine, 40k is doing well for the coolant seals. Even at stock power, 60-100k is a reasonable life expectancy.
Dave
Spoke to RX7Store to do a rebuild will cause me $2g. To purchased a street port (rebuild?) will cost $2800 without the core, that's why I said it's cheaper just to buy it versus send to have rebuild.
I'm asking to see if anybody have done another engine swapped other rotory into this car. I know someone done a V8 but i'm interest only to import motor.
07-27-06, 01:05 PM
#5
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So you got 150k out of the first motor? And you bought a used motor with 40k on it to have it dump on you? So what? You took a risk and you got burned.
You can get a reman for $2200, and have a good engine builder tear it down and rebuild it to good specs (remans usually have new rotor housings). Or you could have a rebuild done of your current motor.
If you keep trying to cheap out on a new motor, you're going to end up paying a lot more in the end than if you just did it right in the first place.
You can get a reman for $2200, and have a good engine builder tear it down and rebuild it to good specs (remans usually have new rotor housings). Or you could have a rebuild done of your current motor.
If you keep trying to cheap out on a new motor, you're going to end up paying a lot more in the end than if you just did it right in the first place.
07-27-06, 01:54 PM
#6
Ok, so now I'm beginning to get it.
You have a JDM used (40k) motor/tranny that you installed, and it only lasted 150mi. If it's simply a used motor, I wouldn't be surprised - used motors are your risk unless the seller is willing to stand behind it.
Now if you paid to get that 40k motor rebuilt before installing it, and then only got 150mi on it since the rebuild, that's a major warranty issue with the rebuilder.
One thing worth saying: the issues you are talking about are common to all boosted rotarys. 40k is below average for a motor run at 10psi, and if the rebuilder is clear about the specs on the parts you should see at least that life from the next motor you put in. I can't see you gaining anything significant by going away from the 13b-rew platform, unless you want to spend a whole lot more money. $2200 isn't small money, but the effort/adaptation required to swap in something else will quickly exceed that amount, and certainly be more difficult.
You have a JDM used (40k) motor/tranny that you installed, and it only lasted 150mi. If it's simply a used motor, I wouldn't be surprised - used motors are your risk unless the seller is willing to stand behind it.
Now if you paid to get that 40k motor rebuilt before installing it, and then only got 150mi on it since the rebuild, that's a major warranty issue with the rebuilder.
One thing worth saying: the issues you are talking about are common to all boosted rotarys. 40k is below average for a motor run at 10psi, and if the rebuilder is clear about the specs on the parts you should see at least that life from the next motor you put in. I can't see you gaining anything significant by going away from the 13b-rew platform, unless you want to spend a whole lot more money. $2200 isn't small money, but the effort/adaptation required to swap in something else will quickly exceed that amount, and certainly be more difficult.
07-27-06, 02:14 PM
#7
silver7
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Point taking guys. I love my REX, like I said I have this car for 8 years with many more years to go and plan on passing on to my son.
Your right Ryan, it was a $2900 risk. The only reason I took that risk was to covert auto to manual without having to search for all necessary parts.
Maybe I just spoke out of disappointments with all of time and investment I put into this car.
The plan is to put in a street port engine by springs for the Massachussets meet.
Your right Ryan, it was a $2900 risk. The only reason I took that risk was to covert auto to manual without having to search for all necessary parts.
Maybe I just spoke out of disappointments with all of time and investment I put into this car.
The plan is to put in a street port engine by springs for the Massachussets meet.
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07-27-06, 03:27 PM
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Originally Posted by dgeesaman
Driving the car gently while it warms up,
Good point. Although it would be difficult to test this scientifically, it wouldn't surprise me if this was one of the major contributors to a shortened coolant seal life. How many drivers wait until the engine is fully warmed up before accelerating over 4,000 rpm? It may be the kind of thing that does incremental damage that you don't notice until later. You want the metal in the engine to have a nice even warmup not hotspots contrasting with cooler sections that haven't fully warmed up.
07-27-06, 03:54 PM
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I know people who have seen way over 100k on a motor...how bad to you rape your motors rc51king, if its like the bikes in your sig...then i feel sorry for your FD. From doing alot of reading i have come to find that this car is only as relaible as its owner.
07-28-06, 08:04 AM
#12
silver7
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Originally Posted by JConn2299
Good point. Although it would be difficult to test this scientifically, it wouldn't surprise me if this was one of the major contributors to a shortened coolant seal life. How many drivers wait until the engine is fully warmed up before accelerating over 4,000 rpm? It may be the kind of thing that does incremental damage that you don't notice until later. You want the metal in the engine to have a nice even warmup not hotspots contrasting with cooler sections that haven't fully warmed up.
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