Jmotsch

Anyone have suggestions for removing 20+ old baked on window tint/window glue? Trying avoid ruining the rear defrost lines. I have tried heat gun, steam, ammonia, and even air craft paint remover. Nothing seems to soften it. Anyone dealt with this?

AE_Racer

iTrader: (1)

trash bag taped over window with ammonia, leave in sun. otherwise, scotch pad.

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

I had a pro do the job. It's VERY slow backbreaking work, once it's that old there's no fast way to do it. Professionals may have tools/techniques/chemicals that we don't have access to that will make the job easier.

Also you can get them to re-tint the hatch when done.

If you do have defroster lines that get cut in the process Permatex makes a repair kit that works really well. You can use a multimeter in continuity mode on each line to test it for breaks.

Also, make sure the tint shop does the tint in 1 piece. I've seen them use 3 pieces and it looks like crap over time.

Dale

Jmotsch

Thanks. I think that is where I am at with this. I've done about all I can do to get it off. Time to leave it to the pros. I will Likley be getting it retinted.

Krem

I’m aTinter by trade so here’s how we do it here in australia

i use a product called “pink stuff” adhesive remover, take the hatch off and sit it on a stand so its easier to work on (not trying to work upside down)

simply spray the pink stuff all over the glass and it will simply dissolve the glue into a “snot” like substance, it stinks and its totally gross

it does help when as much of the old tint is off as possible, the pink stuff will soften the tint to a degree,

if you have a real steady hand, use a single edged razor blade to get as much off around the demister bars as possible, then there are plastic razor blades (i kid you not) which will help around and on the bars, or use some 00 grade steel wool with the glue remover, make sure you get it nice and clean, especially on the bars,

removing the old tint and glue is harder than actually tinting the glass, any leftover glue will stand out really bad.

if your getting it redone, I’d suggest getting it as clean as possible as they will charge you by the minute to take it off, it will save you in the long run.

now a run down on tint and why it went purple and ****!!.

cheaper tints use a dye to get the desired colour and shade, over time the dry fades and the adhesive lifts.

cheaper film isn’t really that much cheaper than quality film, from the cost of a roll and how many (FD rx7’s for example) you would get from a standard 30” wide roll (say 8 cars), a cheaper film would cost (on my price per roll) would be around $35 (Australian), a quality metallic (will get to this in a sec) would cost around $43 per car.

the extra cost the shop charges per car for cheap tint v’s quality tint is just a ploy, they will tell you its because they have to carry the warranty, well the film manufacturer carries any warranty claim, including the cost of the labour, the film itself, the quality film is a tiny bit harder to work with as its thicker, so shrinking the film is a little harder.

so the best is a full metallic film, it will never fade (has no dye’s) and it will reject upto twice the amount of heat per shade, for example

a 20% dyed film will reject around 35% heat, where a metallic film of same shade will reject upto 57% heat, in fact, a 35% metallic film will reject around 40% heat, so a lighter film shade with metallic film will reject far more heat than a darker dyed film (these are based on the film i use)

here where i live, i see cars that i tinted with a full metallic film (there are dyed and metallic films combined) over 20 yrs ago driving around and they tint still holds its colour and still looks pretty good, bearing in mind here in Tassie the climate isn’t real hot,our temps range from 1deg c to around 35deg c.

Metallic films are way better, and if your installer has some, I’d suggest you pay the extra for it,

Krem

Jmotsch

Great info. I agree that taking the hatch off would make things much easier. I will look into that product you suggested. I am all for paying for a high quality tint and if I can get it cleaned up before I take it in it would make the whole ordeal much more affordable.

Krem

Ok, here are some pics of the stuff i use (or used, the last car i tinted was nearly 4 yrs ago and i havent commercially done it for nearly 6, i love doing it, just dont have the time anymore)


Here is the glue remover, lol, it USED to be called pink stuff, thought it still was, When I couldn’t get this stuff there was a product called TARDIS, autobody repairs use it to remove bodymoulding tape residue, its not as good as this stuff, but might be easier to get hold of

Here are the blades, plastic on the bottom,

Here is the steel wool, I’m pretty sure its 00 grade, you could use the stuff with the soap if its all you can get,


Here is the film i use, to clarify, the lower the % number is the light the film lets thru, this is the best film ive ever used, and extreemly well priced, and its from America so should be used in heaps of stores near you


hope this helps some more,

krem