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ok my car is dying now...wierd idle( jumps to 100-400 RPM? ) everyone help?

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Old 01-13-02, 10:12 PM
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Unhappy ok my car is dying now...wierd idle( jumps to 100-400 RPM? ) everyone help?

i was driving on my way from work and all of a sudden i get no boost i stop at a light no rough idle but i accelerat and no boost goes to 5psi but fells no accleration almost like if i reved in neutral ? i finally turn off the car after pulling over and check stuff out..turn it back on and walla 100-400 rpm rough idle( i mean bad! ) prup broom pro boom put poot put sounding idle it still drove but when acclerating you can hear backfiring and the idle kinda lumpy as u accelerate but once i try to accelerate i hear the turbos spinning but no boost or any acceleration felt??

OK is it?

A. blown engine
B. hose leak
C. bad plugs
D. manifold leak
E. bad turbo
F. fuel filter
G. Something else thaTs probably $$$$
Old 01-13-02, 10:44 PM
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First possibility is a hose popped off.

Check the MAP sensor; it is the little box in the engine bay, in front of the driver, right behind the intake manifold. If the hose pops off the bottom of that, your car will exhibit what you are talking about.

Good luck.
Old 01-14-02, 12:42 PM
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the hose was off like u said but still another problem

the clamp isnt holding it in but it was off i got it back on, but this morining before i looked at that i turned the car to see what it would do and then it smoked and idled crappy then finally died, i try to crank it but it wont turn on. it sound like the car is wanting to start but it never does just cranking. this was this morining after a big cloud of smoke and it idle for 2mins then finally died. could the engine be flooded.
Old 01-14-02, 01:27 PM
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couls it be that running it without the boost sensor may have screwed up something else? the sensor was the problem its just my car doesnt want to start for some damn reason now.....just goes chur churree chur chu chuur and never starts.....could it be that ive flooded the engine while running it without the boost sensor or that i may have fouled my spark plugs running it like that?
Old 01-14-02, 01:31 PM
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Hehe,

Sounds like you flooded it. Tip #2; never cold stop a rotary!

First you will want to reset the ECU; remove ground from the battery, depress the brake pedal for about 5 seconds, then put the ground back on the battery.

Second, try to start the car by depressing the gas pedal all the way and cranking it. This should start a car if it is mildly flooed. If it still spins but doesn't start up the it may be really flooded. If so, follow:

Third, perform the ol' unflooding procedure. Do a search for it on this site. If you can't find it, post again.

Good luck.
Old 01-14-02, 01:34 PM
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cold stop?
Old 01-14-02, 01:48 PM
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Originally posted by Cetchup
cold stop?
Let the rotary fully warm up before you shut the car off. Anytime the motor is cold, never kill it.
Old 01-14-02, 01:49 PM
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When you start a rotary engine cold, don't shut it off until it reaches normal operating temperature. Bah, GsrSol beat me to it..

You definitely flooded it Taino. The car runs very rich when the map sensor line pops off. It takes a bit for the car to "clear it's throat" after fixing the hose. (Be sure to zip-tie the line onto the sensor)

Last edited by Toadman; 01-14-02 at 01:55 PM.
Old 01-14-02, 01:53 PM
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ok i tried to start it again and it just never starts

Ok i tried this...

"First you will want to reset the ECU; remove ground from the battery, depress the brake pedal for about 5 seconds, then put the ground back on the battery.

Second, try to start the car by depressing the gas pedal all the way and cranking it." i did that it made a chur chi chur chu chur kinda strating noise then it only makes a spinning noise now is that a sign of a flood or can it be bad spark plugs how can i fix this??
Old 01-14-02, 01:54 PM
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what exactly happens when you start it and it dies cold

what is it that happens to the car.......
Old 01-14-02, 01:59 PM
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Spinning noise? Hope the battery didn't die. You are going to need to pull the spark plugs, pull the EGI fuse and crank the engine to clear it. Dry off the plugs or install new ones. The 4 plugs are pretty hard to get to.
Old 01-14-02, 02:06 PM
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what if i jump started the car??

what if i jumped started it...also should i try to crank it again, should i press the clutch try and give it gas more? damnit ok lemme get some sparks plugs can i find them ngk leading trailing at any auto store like pep boys, western auto or sumthin?
Old 01-14-02, 02:15 PM
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Yes. If the car didn't start with Atihun's suggestion above, then it is most likely a full engine flood. A Mazda dealer will have the plugs in stock. Can't guarantee stock at Pep Boys, Autozone, etc. Don't press the accelerator to start the engine after you get it all buttoned up. Anyone here live in Taino's area to give him a hand?
Old 01-14-02, 02:26 PM
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..

can there be anything else that can be the problem....but just before this happened the car was fine no probs...but is there anything at all that can cause whats going on so i can check it out.....dammit so what sparks plugs to get??
Old 01-14-02, 02:45 PM
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When that MAP sensor line goes, the car goes extremely rich, rev's like crap, and goes "rump, rump" at idle. Probably lots of black smoke and soot out the pipe also. As long as it isn't white steam you're probably ok.
If the plugs are sokaed and reek of gas when you pull them out, you answered the question.

Leading plugs BUR7EQP - 0000-18-N3A2 qty2
Trailing plugs BUR9EQ - 0000-18-N342 qty2

Trailing plugs have a blue band on the plug ceramic, and

These are the standard NGK repalcement plugs, about 8-9 bucks a piece. There are also "hotter" trailing plugs and other combos but let's not confuse the issue. Recommended plug gap is 1.1-1.7mm (0.044-0.066 in.) Keep your old plugs if healthy, but don't scrub platinum plugs with a wire brush to remove deposits. More plug advice here and here regarding flooding.

Last edited by Toadman; 01-14-02 at 03:03 PM.
Old 01-14-02, 03:05 PM
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Go to Pep Boys, most will carry the stock NGK plugs:

BUREQ7 - leading
BUREQ9 - trailing

NOTE: these are not the P-platinum plugs, but they are the same and will work the same, just not last as long: plus at Pep Boys, theyre only 3 bucks each.

And since the rotary runs rich, you will end up replacing the plugs far more often, and you will not get any of the benefits that the Platinum plugs offer.

This is typical behavior for a 7 that has had its MAP sensor vac line fall off (when the MAP sensor comes off, the engine will run like crap because there is no pressure/vacuum signal and the engine overcompensates by adding extra fuel), and as well for the flooding.

If your car is highly flooded, the engine will turn and turn, almost making a whirring sound.

Ok, now, here is what you need to do to get it unflooded.

1. Remove the plugs and make sure the ends of the plug wires arent touching anything metal.
2. Remove the fuel pump relay.

3. Crank the engine for 15 seconds with the accelerator depressed all the way.
4. Let the car sit for about 30 minutes.
5. Crank the engine for 15 seconds with the accelerator depressed all the way.
6. Let the car sit for about 30 minutes.
7. Get some ATF (automatic transmission fluid), and with a dropper, pour about 2 tablespoons into each leading (lower) plug hole.
8. Put in new, (or old dried) plugs.
9. Reconnect plug wires.
10.Put in the fuel pump relay.
11.Make sure that your battery is charged.
12.Crank the car like normal, WITHOUT touching the gas pedal; crank until it starts.
13.Pray that the fire department doesn't come over to your house.

Good luck.
Old 01-14-02, 03:13 PM
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LOL! Definitely warn the neighbors that you'll be simulating a smoke bomb for a bit.
Old 01-14-02, 03:14 PM
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Originally posted by GsrSol


Let the rotary fully warm up before you shut the car off. Anytime the motor is cold, never kill it.
Why?
Old 01-14-02, 03:25 PM
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ok

i pulled the dip stick out and it smelt like GAS...i think thats the culprit i just walked down the street i live 2-3 mins aaway from advanced auto parts they had the ngk leading and trailing ive bought them but how do i get the plugs out this looks like its going to be a pain?? i cant find the right head to use to get the plugs out what size do i use also whats the easiest way to get in there and get em out and...will the smoke really be that bad?


1. take of battery and charge it up
2. pull egi fuse
3. pull off spark plugs ( do i recconect battery at this point and egi fuse )
4. get in car try to crank it up for 15 sec. then if still no wait 30 mins
5. get back in after 30 mins to crank it up again for like 15 secs.
6. expect fire depo. they are like 5 blocks away?
Old 01-14-02, 03:28 PM
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Quote from ~maxpence

It has to do with the layout of the combustion chambers the Fireing chamber is NEVER open to the Atmosphere so any fuel or oil that condenses on the spark plugs stays there when the engine is not running The cold start system sets the A/F ratio very rich to compensate for incomplete vaporization of the cold fuel droplets - when the engine is shut off cold that fuel condenses on the spark plugs and causes the hard starting. the condition is also seen on FI engines with old/dirty injectors be cause MAZDAs FI system doesn't relieve fuel pressure on shutdown and they tend to leak fuel into the intake that then gets pulled in to the engine and onto the spark plugs. ~

Couldn't have said it better, so I just copied it!

Additionally, the condensed fuel does not evaporate if the engine is cold, as it does when hot.
Old 01-14-02, 03:28 PM
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I don't know if this is right or not, but when the engine is warming up the ecu runs the car rich, and if you shut off the engine during this warming up (rich) cycle, the engine will flood.
Old 01-14-02, 03:31 PM
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To get to the plugs you have to take the plastic elbow coming from the intercooler going to the throttle body off, and jack up the car cuz you also have to get to them from the bottom. Thats what I did, and it wasn't too hard.
Old 01-14-02, 03:33 PM
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Re: ok

Originally posted by TainoIndian
will the smoke really be that bad?
BWAHAHAHAHAHHAHAHA!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Well this will be your first true ROTARY EXPERIENCE!!!!!!
Old 01-14-02, 03:38 PM
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Re: ok

Originally posted by TainoIndian
i pulled the dip stick out and it smelt like GAS...i think thats the culprit i just walked down the street i live 2-3 mins aaway from advanced auto parts they had the ngk leading and trailing ive bought them but how do i get the plugs out this looks like its going to be a pain?? i cant find the right head to use to get the plugs out what size do i use also whats the easiest way to get in there and get em out and...will the smoke really be that bad?


1. take of battery and charge it up
2. pull egi fuse
3. pull off spark plugs ( do i recconect battery at this point and egi fuse )
4. get in car try to crank it up for 15 sec. then if still no wait 30 mins
5. get back in after 30 mins to crank it up again for like 15 secs.
6. expect fire depo. they are like 5 blocks away?
1. You need a standard spark plug socket. Start walkin'!
2. If you are careful, you can remove the plugs the way I do; just reach your hand down the space between the intake elbow and the brake fluid reservoir (that is if your hands/arms arent too big). If they are too big, the best way is to get to them from the underside of the car.
3. Make sure you label or know which plug wires go to which plug - very important.
4. On your #3., yes you need to reconnect the battery. That is how you will be able to crank it up in #4.
5. What you are doing is NOT trying to start the car, as your #4 says, but actually blowing out all of the fuel that has built up in the combustion chambers.

Follow the steps I gave you exactly.
Old 01-14-02, 03:53 PM
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.....?

Hey i have had good luck so far....this is my second 3rd gen rx7 had a R-1 long story but now i have this touring...but yes ive never really messed with car


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