I want to resolve my never ending problem
I always thought I had a tuning issue with my car because I was running single turbo and 850cc injectors all round

I had it at the tuners today and it's knocking like a biarch, put the timing light on it t1 with the power fc in and it was 38 degress to far advanced, then reset the computer with the datalogit and it was like 25 dress to far advanced, strange....

We went through all the possible senarios and then even tried the standard ECU and it was 23 degress to far advanced.

Any ideas on what could becausing this?

Shouldn't be possible with the standard ecu we have checked and double checked....I would love to solve this as I want to drive my baby again and want to stop these high knocks

 

So your running the stock ignition system ? ? ? ?

 

was your crank angle sensor set correctly?

Tim

 

You might want to post this in the PFC forum

 

I have an idea on this .First let me question you . Do you have an ingition amp ? Have you removed the wires from the connectors for the inigition trigger pickups to put in a new wire or replace a connector ? With the answer to these questions we can move on to an answer .

 

CantGoStraight - Yes I am running the stock ignition system just runing b9egv plugs and mazdaspeed wires

Tim Benton - I don't know how they couldn't be they are in a fixed position and they were fine, I haven't touched them

GARCO MOTORWORKS - No I don't have an ignition amp, only time I've had the wires off is when the motor was rebuilt and I have never replaced any wires

Cheers guys

 

how long has it been since the engine was installed? Was it the same time the 850 injectors were installed?

Tim

 

Crank pulley offset or teeth broken?

 

2 questions.
1. Your engine was knocking like a bitch and it's still running? Please let us in on your secret juice.
2. How do you know it is 38 deg too far advanced (at what rpm), what are you using as a refernce??

 

I had this problem and the connectors on the crank angle sensor were accidently swapped. Unplug them and swap them. this will advance your timing as stated and it will run but it will overheat etc.
This make sense that no matter what ECU you installed it still had this issue. I am sure thats your problem.

 

As to why it's still running I don't know, but I aint driving it any more.

It's still running sweet, I just run 96 gas and rotary aviation seals

The crank sensors are on the right ones white at the top gray at the bottom, haven't checked the wiring there though, which I'm about to go do

At 1500rpm it was 38 advanced snapon timing light off t1 at a tuning place

Going to also check the crank pully now, for off set and teeth, was mint though thats what I can't understand hasn't been taken appart or touched.

Question: Can you pull the front pully off with out having to pull the front cover off and ****, I think the bearings will drop if I do, is that correct??

Motor was installed back in Jan ran mint with 550/850 380hp at wheels
Dramas ever since new injectors and emmissions was removed
850s all round idle nice and drives nice can't get on boost due to knock how ever

Can't see how that would effect timing even on the standard computer

 

If you reverse the wires in eather single trigger connector the timming will be off about 30 degrees .That is to say pull the white connector and remove the two wires and put them back in the opposite holes an the timming will be out 30 or 33 degrees .I have tried this with both connectors and it proves out .

 

OK thanks will give it ago,
I have just stripped the entie engie wiring harnese and tested everything there even including the sheilding for the crank wires and the knock wire

 

Ok here is another question could you accidently get the primary injector plugs around the wrong way and the car still run ok but with heaps of knock?

Or should the car not run at all? anyone know anybody that may have accidentaly done this?

I'M STARTING TO THINK THIS MAY HAVE BEEN MY PROBLEM, I hope not cause I'll be kicking my self for all the mucking aroud I have been doing trying to get it sorted and if it was just 2 plugs round the wron way.

 

The plug with the red tracer goes to the pri front injector, if you switch them front to rear the car will still run . If you see the timming is off with a light then the timming is off . The injectors will not change the spark timming . I know how to find top dead center and mark the wheel , are you sure you have done that correctly . Mark the wheel DTC for each rotor .

 

No I haven't done that I'm just working off the factory markings, How do you find TDC??

 

HMM! taught auto mechanics for 10 yrs never saw a brain fix a car, but seen a lot of HANDS do it! DUH! YEP! still believe hands are smarter than brain, also make sure brain is engaged be for mouth is moving! good nite RON

 

How do you find TDC ? I can tell you but I type to slowly , Do a search or PM me and I will give you my number and any help I can .My timming was out 50 degrees so I have been through all of this .I run a Power fc .The problem was in the bad Ingition amp .