Ok I know this thread is way over talked but I cant find any other threaads regarding this issue when I search so Im gonna need your guys' pro opinion.
Here it is: Stedy primary boost at 10psi all the way upto 4800-5k rpm it drops off to about 2-3psi, I cant really feel the transition from pri. to sec. so im not sure if its the pri turbo dropping off line and the sec. not coming on or what, I thought it was a leak at my intake elbow but I fixed that last night.
The only thing I can think of is when I did the vacuum hose job this winter I did break one of those solenoids but I got a used one from rx7 heaven, its the solenoid second back from the firewall it has a orange sticker and orange connector to it if anyone knows what that one does or what the prob might be...
I plan to do some dyno tuning tomorrow but not if im only running 2psi at 5k...
Any help for me guys is much much appreciated.
JDub

 

Sorry I should also mention that I am using the PFC duty cycles to control boost and I have them set at Pri.=40 & sec.=50, I tried turning up the sec. a little but it didnt seem to make a difference, I suppose in itself that could be the issue and I will try drastically turning up the sec drastically, but I figured pri. & sec. duty cycles should be about the same if you run say pri.40 at 10psi then at sec.40 it should be 10psi also. but maybe im way off here?
JDub

 

Hello? Is there anybody in there...?

 

Your assumptions regarding the duty cycles on the PFC aren't correct but that's not your real problem. This is a mechanical issue.

check this page for troubleshooting, it is excellent:

http://www.autosportracetech.com/RX-7/rx7stuff.htm

Unfortunately I can't access the page (damn firewall at work!), but it sounds like you may be having a problem related to the charge relief valve not closing.

 

Would you have any idea how that would happen, nothing besides the one solenoid was broken during disassembly that I know of anyway...?

 

I had an electrical problem that caused my CRV to stay open all the time. The wire that controls it had been cut at the ECU. You never know what the bonehead that owned the car before you did to it!

 

Well it worked fine until I did the vac hose job, the fmic and the PFC, where exactly is the CRV located and would I be able to tell if it was malfunctioning?

 

Im starting to get discouraged becuz I dont want to take her apart again... Waahhaha *sniff*

 

and you did the vac hose job?

I suggest reading the link that rynberg gave you. Learn about the system first, then you'll have a better idea of what might be broken.

 

Ok, I checked the CRV & it works fine, I fixed a vacuum leak and another potential leak & still no sec. turbo, I read a post about someones similar ordeal being caused by the turbo pre-control but how do you test to see if this is working properly? I will be routing all the vac hoses with the diagram to see if I missed something & replacing one solenoid that I feel may not be working... Any other ideas on where I should look? Im pretty confident that the sec turbo is not coming online at all...
JDub

 

My guess would be that either the turbo control actuator (TCA) or charge control actuator (CCA) are not functioning. That doesn't necessarily mean they are broken. They could be not functioning because of a bad solenoid, a bad check valve, or simply because a hose has popped off.

Here's what I did to try and find my transition problem:

http://www.geocities.com/laracers_vr_r1/boost_plots

but that might be a little extreme until you've tested all the check valves and hoses. Also, make sure the vacuum chamber holds vacuum, and that the pressure chamber holds pressure. The link I gave you in my other reply explains how to do all these things. Make sure you read everything on that website.

Good luck

 

check the solenoid on top of the ACV

also check the pressure tanks and the check valves that are on them

 

I did check the vacuum chamber and it had good pressure, also the turbo pre control on top of the ACV has a little black plastic can on the other side of it towards the passenger side front wheel and the cap seems to not be there to block or hold pressure because it wiggles freely and like I said is hard plastic...? But I going to check all the vac solenoids tonite, I should be able to just run a 9volts battery to each one and blow through them to see if they open, right guys?
Thanks for all the help so far, I will let you know if I come across any fixes for the problem immediately.
JDub

 

How the heck do you test these solenoids, they dont respond to 9volts?

 

Do you guys think that doing the Seq. Simplification will maybe fix my boost problem, i suppose its possible the first time I did the vac. hose job I hooked them up wrong...?
JDub