Oil pan Question
#1
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Oil pan Question
Ok, I am really fed up and annoyed right now, I'm sure you feel my pain after all yo are also FD owners. I am on the final leg of gettng my car started after a rebuild and single conversion. I filled it with fluids last week and left it because i became busy with work and such. When i went back to it, i noticed a puddle of oil under the car. Upon further inspection, the pan is leaking pretty bad. I thought i smeared enough sealant on there to seal it off pretty well but i guess not. I am going to order the ground zero sump from pineapple racing. My real question is, can you REALLY pull the pan without pulling the motor??
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Not to displace or put stress on any thing ,I susport the motor and lower the subframe about 4 to 6 inches .Then the pan will clear for removal .You must unbolt the steering rack ,four bolts from the sub frame .I seal the pan and then let them sit for three days before filling with oil .
#6
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I guess the question is, will the ground zero pan clear for the install? Isn't it a deeper pan that stock? Good luck, this area of my rebuild was one of the most focused. I dimpled the block and used honda bond sealent. Torqued the pan and mounted the motor mounts. I then let it set a couple of days too. Which I feel is one of the most important steps, people get in a hurry to get that engine in and started so they can go zooming around with there new rebuild, not good. Almost forgot, most important step clean gasket areas extreamly well! Use asetone or another famible solvent! Do this several times as cast iron seems to absorb oil. All surfaces most be completely oil free for the sealent to stick. Our rotary engines flex unlike piston engine blocks and the oil pan gives no structural integrity at all. Over time this is what really causes the pan to leak and of course the motor mounts are torqued way more that the simple pan bolts which in my mind squeases most of the sealent out in that area. I will bet this is where most of the leaking ocurrs. Hense the reason to mount pan and motor mounts, torque and let it stay on the stand or hoist till the sealent drys.
Terry7
Terry7
Last edited by sevensheaven; 12-01-06 at 06:24 AM.
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#9
Original Gangster/Rotary!
iTrader: (213)
If you're going to keep the stock oil pan, this is a good idea to prevent leaks:
http://www.gothamracing.com/catalog/...oducts_id=1076
http://www.gothamracing.com/catalog/...oducts_id=1076
#10
RX-7 Bad Ass
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You can just unbolt the subframe from the car and let it hang. You'll have to support the engine from up above, though. IMHO, unbolting the subframe is the way to go - you have more room to work in, and you really need it to spend the proper time cleaning the surfaces, scraping old RTV off, etc.
I'm not a fan of the Ground Zero oilpan. The design is nice, but it hangs down below the subframe - if you hit a rock or something, you can break the oilpan, it won't just dent like the stock pan. One person has already had this happen. Also, it doesn't have a provision for an oil level sender, something which is VERY necessary, IMHO. It's a really good concept (cast aluminum, o-ring sealing) but too many compromises for my tastes.
Dale
I'm not a fan of the Ground Zero oilpan. The design is nice, but it hangs down below the subframe - if you hit a rock or something, you can break the oilpan, it won't just dent like the stock pan. One person has already had this happen. Also, it doesn't have a provision for an oil level sender, something which is VERY necessary, IMHO. It's a really good concept (cast aluminum, o-ring sealing) but too many compromises for my tastes.
Dale
#11
Originally Posted by DaleClark
You can just unbolt the subframe from the car and let it hang. You'll have to support the engine from up above, though. IMHO, unbolting the subframe is the way to go - you have more room to work in, and you really need it to spend the proper time cleaning the surfaces, scraping old RTV off, etc.
I'm not a fan of the Ground Zero oilpan. The design is nice, but it hangs down below the subframe - if you hit a rock or something, you can break the oilpan, it won't just dent like the stock pan. One person has already had this happen. Also, it doesn't have a provision for an oil level sender, something which is VERY necessary, IMHO. It's a really good concept (cast aluminum, o-ring sealing) but too many compromises for my tastes.
Dale
I'm not a fan of the Ground Zero oilpan. The design is nice, but it hangs down below the subframe - if you hit a rock or something, you can break the oilpan, it won't just dent like the stock pan. One person has already had this happen. Also, it doesn't have a provision for an oil level sender, something which is VERY necessary, IMHO. It's a really good concept (cast aluminum, o-ring sealing) but too many compromises for my tastes.
Dale
#12
Searching for 10th's
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Originally Posted by DaleClark
You can just unbolt the subframe from the car and let it hang. You'll have to support the engine from up above, though.
Dale
Dale
a jack under the tranny. Any thoughts on that?
Originally Posted by DaleClark
I'm not a fan of the Ground Zero oilpan. The design is nice, but it hangs down below the subframe - if you hit a rock or something, you can break the oilpan, it won't just dent like the stock pan. One person has already had this happen. Also, it doesn't have a provision for an oil level sender, something which is VERY necessary, IMHO. It's a really good concept (cast aluminum, o-ring sealing) but too many compromises for my tastes.
Dale
Dale
Forget about the O-ring, you still need sealant. I have a leaking
pan right now - it has sealant on it. The O-ring does not work well.
As for the level sender - why do you consider that necessary?
My perspective is for a car that sees mostly autox and track days, so the oil is checked pretty frequently. Oil pressure and temp should be sufficient monitors on the oil.
The added oil capacity can't hurt however. (about 1 quart additional)
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I do not suport the engine with the tranny,BUT that is a very good way to do the job . You do not need to pull the front sus but do unbolt the steering rack so the subframe will come down easy .The lower sus armes will move with the subframe, no proplem .
#14
Racecar - Formula 2000
Additional sub-frame and oil-pan-sealing info
Check out this thread:
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-gen-archives-73/easier-oil-pan-removal-305386/
Dave
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-gen-archives-73/easier-oil-pan-removal-305386/
Dave
#15
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Originally Posted by GARCO MOTORWORKS
I do not suport the engine with the tranny,BUT that is a very good way to do the job . You do not need to pull the front sus but do unbolt the steering rack so the subframe will come down easy .The lower sus armes will move with the subframe, no proplem .
#16
T O R Q U E!
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be careful
Originally Posted by DaveW
Last edited by mdpalmer; 12-03-06 at 08:23 PM. Reason: added link
#17
Racecar - Formula 2000
Oil pan removal clearance
Note that in that thread I stated that I unbolted the two rear subframe bolts and pried the rear of the frame down about 1/4" to give enough clearance to remove the pan.
Dave
Dave
#18
development
https://www.rx7club.com/showpost.php...8&postcount=26
another good write up
another good write up
#19
T O R Q U E!
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Originally Posted by DaveW
Note that in that thread I stated that I unbolted the two rear subframe bolts and pried the rear of the frame down about 1/4" to give enough clearance to remove the pan.
Dave
Dave
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I know I wouldnt NEED "Need it" , but I did not like the condition of my oil pan , and the fact that a simple dent in it could cause soo many problems . I am just thinking of another way I can prevent the problem reoccuring , and since I already have the brace I was thinking of using it too for EXTRA support . The studs I bought are about an inch long , would the work ? I read the thread about the broken pan , but if I decide to go wit the GZ pan Ill weld some angle iron around the opening in the crossmember for protection.
#25
Mr. Links
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Originally Posted by Marcel Burkett
I know I wouldnt NEED "Need it" , but I did not like the condition of my oil pan , and the fact that a simple dent in it could cause soo many problems . I am just thinking of another way I can prevent the problem reoccuring , and since I already have the brace I was thinking of using it too for EXTRA support . The studs I bought are about an inch long , would the work ? I read the thread about the broken pan , but if I decide to go wit the GZ pan Ill weld some angle iron around the opening in the crossmember for protection.