davesan1

iTrader: (4)

I have read many of the numerous threads on oil pan leaks and most of them describe various methods of removing the pan, resealing and replacing the pan. I am willing, (and hopefully able), to do this if it should be necessary. It is a biggish job, so I'm hoping to avoid it, at least for a while. In my case the oil leak is very small. Also it doesn't seem to be increasing over time. So I am hopeful that I can provide an, (admittedly temporary), fix by using some goo and maybe tightening some bolts.

To explain further, I have clearly identified the source of the leak as being around the rear RHS engine mount bolt. I can even see where there seems to be a very slight discontinuity in the existing goo - (very small, allows maybe 1 or 2 drops of oil onto the driveway after a significant, "hot" drive). Here are my questions:

1) Is there any advantage to trying to tighten the engine mount bolt at that point? My concern is that I might do more harm than good by disturbing the existing goo and increasing the leak.

2) Seeing as the precise oil leak location seems to have been identified, can I use lots of silicon, or other, sealer/goo around that area to help reduce the leak? Seems to me that something that is fairly flexible after drying" should resist the tendency to crack and leak after drying. That would leave the success of the seal largely to whether the sealant could retain good adhesion to the (ample) surrounding metal of the pan and the, (very accessible), cast casing. With modern adhesive technology and thorough cleaning I think, (hope?), that this should be possible.

Has anybody tried this with any success? Can anyone address my 2 questions above?

Thanks in advance

Dave

Heisenberg

iTrader: (3)

I actually just resealed my pan recently but unfortunatly that isnt where the leak was coming from . The job itself isnt as bad as it looks if you have the right tools. If it were me i would start off by checking if any of the bolts are loose in the first place, and if so tighten them. If you actally do the fix i suggest using a good sealant, clean all of the surfaces really good, and once you have the pan back on let it dry for 24 hours before adding any oil.

sonix7

Dave if you have a Downpipe, then it can be medium difficulty, if you have the stock pre-cat you are going to have a problem. If you have the Dp then you can jack the tranny after you unbolt the motor mounts, undo the pan bolts drop the pan on the subframe rotate it, unbolt the filler neck, and wedge it out through the subframe. Its tight but can be done and if you do it a bunch of times you get good at it(don't ask me how I know). Go buy a gotham racing oil pan brace. this will save you later. At that point you can clean up the pan make sure its flange is straight, check the motor mounts, at that point you can choose to go with urethane mounts or keep the stock if they are good, if not replace them. then you need to get some Right stuff made by permatex, its a gasket maker. after thouroughly cleaning the pan and underside of engine with laquer thinner, line the under side of the engine with the right stuff the flange of the oil pan and around every bolt. don't forget the part where the tranny engine and oil pan meet, put extra.put the pan brace with the pan meet everything up and install new bolts for the oil pan, go get them at your hardware store.then seal all the m.mount bolts and bolt them up, go only about three turns on the m.mount bolts and take your finger and put extra around the threads, then bolt and torque everything down per FSM. drop the engine back down. bolt the m.mounts and let it sit for at least 48 hours before filling it up with oil. good luck.

sonix7

PM me if you have any questions!

adam c

iTrader: (2)

"Goo-ing" it won't work. It will still leak. If you run your car about 1/2 a quart low on oil, you will probably notice a reduction in leakage/consumption. Just remember to check it regularly.

davesan1

iTrader: (4)

Thanks everybody for your responses

My first observation is that I do not see a lot of support for my temporary fix ideas!

sonix7 - I do have a downpipe and am pleased to hear that this can simplify the job.

adam c - I'll try that. It sure may help for a while.

It's not that I am not prepared to do the "big job." In fact I just spent a few weekends fixing all the other oil leak problems - turbo oil inlet pipes (banjo bolts), turbo oil outlet pipes, (gaskets), oil pedestal leaks, (O-Rings), oil sensor unit - loose fit, etc. I successfully fixed them all, after a lot of work, and I just wasn't quite ready for another major thrust! Anyway, I think I'm going to try to tighten up the bolts, + some goo. If it doesn't help I'll be forced to finally face the situation and move ahead and pull the pan

Thanks again all

Any other suggestions are most welcome

Dave

Heisenberg

iTrader: (3)

Sounds like sonix7 and i did ours differently. I just pulled the whole subframe so i had clear acess to the pan *shrugs*

akiratdk

Is there a how-to web site to show stuff like this??? Mine is leaking too I think...

wanklin

iTrader: (2)

http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/oil_pan_removal.html

Turborx7s

Either way is effecient. Just "gooing" it will absolutely not work...it will still leak. Tightening bolts, may result in going to far. I personally have done it the tranny jack way, but, to each his own.

wanklin

iTrader: (2)

the oem pan is a POS, seems like 80% of FDs have oil leaks because of pan warpage. The two fixes that I know for this are the extremely nice cast 500+dollar Pineapple Racing pan with the built in reusable seal, or the Gotham pan brace ($139)

Gotham
http://www.gothamracing.com/catalog/...1a14c58c505b40

http://www.gothamracing.com/catalog/...hamopbrace.JPG

Pinnapple
http://www.rxtuner.com/farticles/FDOilPanUpgrade.pdf


-Rob

billyrohm

I had this problem once and fixed it by making some gaskets out of card board, coating them in black silicone and putting them in between the motor mount and the motor and the bolt and the mount. It stopped the leak until I cooked my motor.

DaveW

Another thread about R&R'ing the oil pan...

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-gen-archives-73/easier-oil-pan-removal-305386/

Monsterbox

iTrader: (6)

how do u remove the turbo actuator? is it hard to reinstall is there any aligning that needs to be done on the rod or anything?

IRPerformance

iTrader: (41)

2 12mm bolts and a small pick or screwdriver to pop the e-clip off.

axr6

Gooing can actually work with minor leaks. I had several sources of pan leaks on my brand new reman engine. I did two things as an experiment:

1) I suspected that the oil leak was the result of the crank case getting pressurized by turbo blowby. So, I replaced the oil filler cap with a piece of free-breathing cloth to vent the crank case, fastening it with a rubber band.

2) I drained the oil, let it drip overnight and cleaned the leak areas with some laquer thinner. Then I center punched the areas for something to grab into and used some "Right Stuff" sealer just smeared on the outside. The Right Stuff really adheres to metal superbly.

Have driven the car about 1000 miles since, over around 3 months, and no leaks. Worth a try for you, not much effort. You can still do the pan removal if this fails.

Albert

rfreeman27

iTrader: (5)

woah there ghetto.

run a vented catch can.