Oil and Oil Filters
#1
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Oil and Oil Filters
What kinda oil filters and oil do you guys use?
Normally, I use FRAM filters and Red Line. But thinking of maybe going with cheaper oil.... maybe not.
Normally, I use FRAM filters and Red Line. But thinking of maybe going with cheaper oil.... maybe not.
#4
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Originally posted by JConn2299
Catrol 10w-30 and Mazda oil filter. Some of the other filters may not have a drain back valve.
Catrol 10w-30 and Mazda oil filter. Some of the other filters may not have a drain back valve.
#5
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Most aftermarket filters don't have the drainback valve. I know of one that does. Purolator Pure One. Hard as hell to find. I went to two Pep Boys and they didn't have it. It uses synthetic media which is why I'm on the hunt for it
#6
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Don't use Fram. They suck big time. I was told by a local Miata AutoXer/Mechanic only to use the factory filters. I believe that they are manufacturered by a company named Nippon. BTW, in case you didn't know, FDs and Miatas use the same filter, and it's similar to several motorcycle engine filters (which will also work). I was also told that if you can't buy the Mazda filter, you can go with the Mobil 1 filter, but it'll cost ya 2x what the Mazda filter costs with no upside.
Some Chrysler boys went ahead and did some research on filters.
http://members.nbci.com/minimopar/oilfilters.html
Wouldn't take it as gospel, but most people would agree that Fram is pretty bad in terms of construction and quality.
Regarding the type of oil, you've probably opened up a can of worms here between syn and dino. There's at least as many supporters of synthetics as detractors here. My recommendation is use what you feel "comfortable" using in your car, but never let an oil change go over 3000 miles.
A lot of people use synthetics because they last longer, and I can even testify that changing oil between 5-6k on my trusty old 302, the old oil looks cleaner/better than dino at 3k, but rotaries are a bit different...
Some Chrysler boys went ahead and did some research on filters.
http://members.nbci.com/minimopar/oilfilters.html
Wouldn't take it as gospel, but most people would agree that Fram is pretty bad in terms of construction and quality.
Regarding the type of oil, you've probably opened up a can of worms here between syn and dino. There's at least as many supporters of synthetics as detractors here. My recommendation is use what you feel "comfortable" using in your car, but never let an oil change go over 3000 miles.
A lot of people use synthetics because they last longer, and I can even testify that changing oil between 5-6k on my trusty old 302, the old oil looks cleaner/better than dino at 3k, but rotaries are a bit different...
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#8
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I bought a Mobil 1 oil filter for $10 from AutoZone. It has the synthetic fiber and was the most expensive oil filter there, so I tried it out. Works great so far.
-rpc0le
-rpc0le
#12
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Purolator Pure One aren't made for our cars. But they do have the Pure One for the MX-6 that will fit. That's what I'm using in my car when I don't have a chance to get the Mazda OEM, which I normally use. Also I'm using redline 20w50. The Purolator Pure One does have a drainback valve too
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I don't quite remember, I will look on my car later to see what the part number is. But it is the one for the MX-6. It is the same diameter as the one for the RX-7, but it is a little longer than the 7's filter
#15
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Actually Purolator does make a Pure One for the FD Part # PL14622
I use the MX-6 Pure One Oil Filter as well. It's slightly bigger for more surface area filtration and easier to get off. Part #PL14620
I still don't understand why the FD shares the same oil filter (among other oem parts) as the Miata. The FC has a bigger Oil Filter than the Miata and FD.
I don't put anything other than K&N Gold or Purolator Pure One on either of my 7's. Both have the anti drainback valve.
To see where you can buy either check out their websites www.pureoil.com and www.knfilters.com/default.htm
The OEM oil filters are okay. They have anti drainback valve, but the filter element in not the best. They also cost more than the Pure One.
Fram=Crap
Fram is about as bad as it gets. They were good years ago, but don't buy into the marketing hype they are simply crap.
As far as oil, I only use Castrol GTX 10W-30 (or maybe its WD40?)
One of the best if not the Best Dino Juice. It stands up to high temperatures better than most and doesn't leave ash and other deposits in the engine.
I don't recommend synthetics in a rotary (much debate on this) I have my own reasons: But if you do, use the good ones like Redline, Amsoil, Mobil 1 or Royal Purple.
Oh and I still change my oil every 1,500-2,000 miles.
I use the MX-6 Pure One Oil Filter as well. It's slightly bigger for more surface area filtration and easier to get off. Part #PL14620
I still don't understand why the FD shares the same oil filter (among other oem parts) as the Miata. The FC has a bigger Oil Filter than the Miata and FD.
I don't put anything other than K&N Gold or Purolator Pure One on either of my 7's. Both have the anti drainback valve.
To see where you can buy either check out their websites www.pureoil.com and www.knfilters.com/default.htm
The OEM oil filters are okay. They have anti drainback valve, but the filter element in not the best. They also cost more than the Pure One.
Fram=Crap
Fram is about as bad as it gets. They were good years ago, but don't buy into the marketing hype they are simply crap.
As far as oil, I only use Castrol GTX 10W-30 (or maybe its WD40?)
One of the best if not the Best Dino Juice. It stands up to high temperatures better than most and doesn't leave ash and other deposits in the engine.
I don't recommend synthetics in a rotary (much debate on this) I have my own reasons: But if you do, use the good ones like Redline, Amsoil, Mobil 1 or Royal Purple.
Oh and I still change my oil every 1,500-2,000 miles.
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Actually this is one of the cases where size shouldn't matter. The Miata/FD oil filter is closer in dimensions to many motorcycle oil filters. I'm pretty sure that the same engineering that went into one of the sportbike filters (aka 150+hp per liter) works well for went into our part. In any case, the local Miata Mechanic/AutoXer said that Mazda's part actually is better than ALL the aftermarket parts because it's designed from the get-go for the Miata and FD. It's not some other design which has been sized down to Miata size. He's currently building a 250 or so hp supercharged Miata and will be sticking an OEM filter on it. And the OEM filters only cost $5, while the K&N cost $10 and the Pure Ones cost $6.
#18
Rotary Freak
Originally posted by EugeneChoe
could someone expalin the numbers for oil and waht their purposes are. thanks guys
could someone expalin the numbers for oil and waht their purposes are. thanks guys
http://www.howstuffworks.com/question164.htm
As for me I use castrol GTX 10w-30 w/ mobile 1 filters.
#21
Rotary Freak
Originally posted by FstFD3SPOWER
i use GTx 10W 30. having no problem.. but i heard people sayung gtx is not the best oil for Fd.
anyway... during hot weather.. should i use 10w or 20w?
i use GTx 10W 30. having no problem.. but i heard people sayung gtx is not the best oil for Fd.
anyway... during hot weather.. should i use 10w or 20w?
Currently I use 10w-30 year round. It gets as low as 8F here in the winter and as hot as 105F in the summer. Should I be switching viscositys for summer and winter? If so, what viscosity should I use?
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A lot of people use 10w30 for the colder months and 20w50 for the summer months. Since you should be changing your oil every 3 months/3000 miles anyway, it's pretty easy to switch viscosities for climate changes.
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