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Oil Metering Pump Removal instructions

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Old May 29, 2007 | 12:29 PM
  #1  
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Oil Metering Pump Removal instructions

I would like to remove my oil metering pump and need some instructions on what I can remove and what I need to block off.

APEXi Power FC ECU is ready to be installed, read that I needed it for this modification to work?

Anyone have a diagram of the block-off plate for this mod? Got the Gotham Racing block-off kit but it doesn't include this one.
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Old May 29, 2007 | 12:39 PM
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Originally Posted by CareBear
APEXi Power FC ECU is ready to be installed, read that I needed it for this modification to work?
The Apexi PFC can drive the OMP. No need to remove it for this ECU.
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Old May 29, 2007 | 12:51 PM
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Don't want to keep the pump if I don't need too, I want to disable it so I can fill oil straigt in the gas and I can use fully synthetic oil on the engine itself.
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Old May 29, 2007 | 06:28 PM
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why not just keep the OMP and have it draw from a separate reservoir? That would let you use whatever type of oil you wish for the OMP and for the engine oil.

Plus, you dont have to deal with premixing.

I am unsure what the failure rate of OMP's is, but it can't be that high.
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Old May 29, 2007 | 06:43 PM
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when i replaced my lines to stainless lines i had to remove entirely too much crap in order to have access to the lines and pump. i would not go through that again, especially to remove the pump, not worth it......keep it installed.
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Old May 30, 2007 | 12:48 AM
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if theres nothing wrong with your OMP then definatey keep it installed. it works great, and you can still premix.

a rotary workshop here took 2 days to remove and change mine cos of a dead stepper motor.
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Old May 30, 2007 | 06:07 AM
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Just so you all know it, my engine is back from overhaul so I'm about to put everything back together. So there is no hassle removing it or not, but I would like to have my engine as clean as possible from things that can fail, etc.

I'm a newbie when it comes to this and I want to remove as many sources of failure as possible before I'm finished, making it easier to debug when there is problems, as I'm sure there will be.

Decided last night to go with non-sequential turbos
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Old May 30, 2007 | 08:11 AM
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Originally Posted by CareBear
I'm a newbie when it comes to this and I want to remove as many sources of failure as possible before I'm finished, making it easier to debug when there is problems, as I'm sure there will be.
The OMP rarely fails. Just do a search and see when the last time an OMP failure was talked about and the frequency they are reported.
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Old May 30, 2007 | 10:07 AM
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I want to run fully synthetic oil on the engine and two-stroke oil to be burnt in the chambers. Maybe I'll wire up a seperate tank for it, not sure. Thanks for the advices and I'll see what I do when I get that far in the process.
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Old May 30, 2007 | 03:12 PM
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rynberg's Avatar
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Removing the OMP and relying on pre-mix is ADDING a point of failure, not REMOVING one...
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Old May 31, 2007 | 03:41 AM
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Think about it. every time you fill up, you will have to do some math to determine how much premix to add based on how many gallons of fuel you added. then, if you forget a couple times.. or have no oil to add.. etc.. then you are going to be starving your engine of lubrication.

The chances of user error over OMP failure are FAR greater. just replace your omp lines if they are brittle or cracked (OEM, stainless, or the 25$ way) You can always add a little premix on top of the OMP if you like.. or run a separate tank to feed the OMP with whichever oil you choose.
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Old May 31, 2007 | 06:23 AM
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I have a '94 that the OMP failed on. I had to remove an awful lot of stuff to be able to get the OMP off the engine, and I would have had to remove a lot more to get the replacement back on. I made a block off plate and installed that instead. Right now I have another OMP off to the side, plugged in to satisfy the stock computer and I'm mixing in 2 cycle oil in the fuel. I'd be interrested in using an auxilary resivior and using the OMP to inject the correct amount of 2 cycle oil, but I'm not entirely sure how that will work. It appears that the engine turns a shaft in the OMP that handles low volumes of oil injection (probably why the computer limits the RPM of the engine if it sense the stepper motor failed) and then, at higher RPM the stepper starts injecting oil. If the OMP is not attached to the engine, how does the low RPM / low demand oil injection work?

And, on the side, this car seems to be running very rich and seems to really flood if I put the pedal in certain positions. Does this sound like a bad TPS? Where can I tap in to read voltages and what should the voltage be at idle and at WOT?

This is a car that my little brother bought, he's in Iraq and got taken advantage of, and now I'm trying to get the car right so he can enjoy it when he gets home. It's an all stock car.

Thanks,
Greg
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