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Would love it if someone could come up with the trim covers for the OEM CD player. Mazda in their infinite wisdom gave the trims for the radio and the CD player the same part # despite being different (FD01-66-BC4). The closest I've found are out of the '99 Protegé, the pegs are spaced properly, but the tabs dont line up with anything on the FD.
What's the best material for a clean, smooth, strong part?
I find ABS plastic strong enough and suitable for most cases, it won't be super smooth or glossy right off the machine, but there are ways to make them such with acetone which I haven't tried myself.
Not sure how I didn't see this thread until now! I've seen y'alls parts across the various printable/thingiverse sights and much appreciate the efforts!
I'm infantile in designing stuff by all means - but have put up a couple things on thingiverse that have helped in little bits here and there.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6315311 - glovebox spacer adapter that assists with pushing the glovebox light button so it doesn't stay on all the time if your box mounts are starting to sag
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6315321 - wiper nut caps - motivated by Code-Red-Performance's freely uploaded cowl pieces - I never had the caps that go over the wiper bolts on my car either so this was a nice bit of clean up to have. Super simple but with a little sanding or post processing makes things look way better than being open
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6894375 - pivot clip for the hood prop. I don't think these are NLA or anything but I just felt like for something that's probably going to break over time anyways from OEM, might as well be able to print something functional for a couple cents.
I need to upload some of the other little things I've put together, I have some light **** caps similar to the ones posted here that are a lot more basic but have a taper on them so you can print without supports and they come out pretty clean in TPU.
Not sure what CAD program you are using, but a little tip from looking at your models, most programs have STL export settings. If you increase the resolution of the export, it will greatly reduce that sharp faceting on all your curved surfaces and make a smoother print that will require less hand working to smooth out!
Great tip! I've been using Fusion 360 more recently - I think that wiper cap thing I did first in tinkercad which definitely had the low res stuff going for it. I'll look at increasing the STL renders on the future stuff going forward!
Tangential to 3D printing, if anyone has experience remaking rubber parts, I have a model for the rear wiper grommet. This covers the big lock nut under the wiper arm and is NLA
Tangential to 3D printing, if anyone has experience remaking rubber parts, I have a model for the rear wiper grommet. This covers the big lock nut under the wiper arm and is NLA
yes, both machining it and casting custom parts. shoot the model over and I'll see what I can do.
Being a Grommet, This is suppose to be rubber of some sort no? Id Think TPU should be fine for it.
Yes it is rubber. My original intent was to make a mold of some sort and re-cast it in rubber so a bunch could be made for other owners who might need them. I suggested printing it first to confirm the fitment since I don't know to what lengths @need-a-t2 is taking this and don't want him to go through a bunch of effort just to find out my model is off a little bit. I took the measurements from the grommet on my car, but it is an old, tired, and small part so what I measure and what fits in real life aren't always the same.
Finally uploaded my bracket models for the optional FD luggage strap. Originally drew these up to include with my spare strap that didn't come with any hardware (For Sale BTW), but figured I'd share them for anyone who might need them. In hindsight I should have used the sheet metal tools in Solidworks, but didn't know how to use them at the time and I don't have the energy to redo them lol. Made sure to include some extras, like the brochure and the original installation instructions.
(FD3S) Power FC Controller Holder for RHD & Dash speedo cover
Hello there,
I noticed that there is a huge group of people doing this in rx7 community. Just wondering if anyone came by a 3D print file for FD3S Power FC Controller Holder for RHD & Dash speedo cover.
Speedometer dash cover might be little harder due to the size but I am sure if we slice it in half and make two prints...we can make it work?
There is a guy who sells the 3D scan of it but looking for the 3D print files. Cheers!
Trying to replicate F138-33-271A which is the 17" brake setup dust shield. they are NLA and i only managed to find this one side, and no rears.
It will be my first attempt at Carbon fiber/kevlar. Better get some practice in before im making a mold of the RZ seats, and hardtop headliner.
Trying to replicate F138-33-271A which is the 17" brake setup dust shield. they are NLA and i only managed to find this one side, and no rears.
It will be my first attempt at Carbon fiber/kevlar. Better get some practice in before im making a mold of the RZ seats, and hardtop headliner.
I’m interested to see how the headliner turns out. I’ve been working my way up to a slicktop conversion and need to decide what to do about the headliner.
Finally started working on this project again after a few years. Overall, I'm happy with how a lot of the smaller details came out and for the most part the fitment issues are easy to solve. Now of the major issue (and why I think I originally dropped this project), I dont know how to go about properly measuring the (draft?, loft?) angles and modeling them. I would appreciate any advice on how I can measure this and bring it into Solidworks. I don't even know if the Loft or Spline features can be setup to curve in 2 planes at once.
Original piece
Prototype. End angles need adjustment and the "OPEN" needs to be shifted over slightly.
The difference in angles is very obvious here
The backside details came out well. The fins and clips are all in the right spots to snap in and retain the piece.
Finally started working on this project again after a few years. Overall, I'm happy with how a lot of the smaller details came out and for the most part the fitment issues are easy to solve. Now of the major issue (and why I think I originally dropped this project), I dont know how to go about properly measuring the (draft?, loft?) angles and modeling them. I would appreciate any advice on how I can measure this and bring it into Solidworks. I don't even know if the Loft or Spline features can be setup to curve in 2 planes at once.
You'll need to do a surface and then thicken to re-create this piece imo. I'm not great at surface modeling, so that's about as far as my advice can go unfortunately. A 3d scanner would be the proper tool to capture the curves, at least that would probably be the easiest way.
You'll need to do a surface and then thicken to re-create this piece imo. I'm not great at surface modeling, so that's about as far as my advice can go unfortunately.
My current situation lol
Originally Posted by Thehead
A 3d scanner would be the proper tool to capture the curves, at least that would probably be the easiest way.
Thats the route I tried going down originally, but everyone I spoke to about it at the time said that it was too small of a part for a scanner to pickup with any sort of fidelity. This was a number of years ago though, so maybe scanner tech is finally at the point for it to work. Unfortunately don't have access to anyone with scanner anymore. I also don't know how to work with meshes but that's a separate issue.
Im struggling a bit to split the door plastic but ill get there one way or another.. do you also have the map pocket itself? not just the lid? if not I was thinking to extend the plastic so it will cover the map pocket also and replace the lid so itll become one long piece (to be printed in 2 halfs)
Also maybe the piece that clicks in where the door handle is. on my '94 the complete everything is screwed...
I recently tried designing a 3D part in CAD thinking I could get it printed in aluminum for a reasonable amount, but it turns out it costs about 10 times more than I expected.
