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Finally got a good model finished for the entire driver-side door plastic that you can print! Make sure when you put it into your slicer you cut it with a dovetail. (I cut mine just under the mirror control switch)
(You can also see the revised map pocket lid in the pics )
Finally got a good model finished for the entire driver-side door plastic that you can print! Make sure when you put it into your slicer you cut it with a dovetail. (I cut mine just under the mirror control switch)
(You can also see the revised map pocket lid in the pics )
What did you use to finish the panel? Aside from the faint seem under the mirror control you cant tell its been 3D printed.
What did you use to finish the panel? Aside from the faint seem under the mirror control you cant tell its been 3D printed.
First, I angled both halves of the print in the 3d printing slicer at a around 45-degree angle to reduce the layer lines when printing. After it was done printing I connected the 2 halves with ABS glue, then sanded it down well with 220 grit to take off any of the glue and remaining layer lines. After that to make sure everything is filled in and is super smooth for paint, I use a sandable primer from U-Pol (some cheap auto parts store sandable primer) and put it on THICK. Then I wet sand the primer with 600 grit and then 800 grit. By then it's super smooth and you can't tell. Then lay down whatever color coat you want and you're good to go. I used Rustoleum trim and bumper paint for the color coat.
Here are some photos of it right after it was printed. And you can see if you print it at the right angle, you get rid of all the harsh and big layer lines and are only left with super small layer lines that the sanding and sandable primer take care of
Ended up purchasing an elegoo centauri carbon. But it won't be here till July 🙄
Could be a good choice but also a not too good of a choice. I own two Elegoo printers (2s and 3Plus) and they are ok for what they are. However, ever since they released the 4 series with built in klipper, I have seen lots of people having issues with the firmware. Not sure if their latest software has already fixed all that. The one thing I know is that elegoo printers are kinda like ender which would requires you to do a bit of tinkering, if you like that sort of stuff, great. But if you just wanna plug and play, it's hard to beat the bambu printers in terms of design-slice-and print but I have also heard that bambu studio is doing some weird things with their software policy stuff. Hopefully the centauri will work well.
I don't want to derail the thread, but can anyone in here print files the size of the gauge hood, or does anyone here know of a place who can, aside from Drakes or AI One? I'm having a tough time finding a place to do it. Please PM me if so.
I don't want to derail the thread, but can anyone in here print files the size of the gauge hood, or does anyone here know of a place who can, aside from Drakes or AI One? I'm having a tough time finding a place to do it. Please PM me if so.
Craftcloud3D maybe? I use it at work on some large parts. It's an instant-quote website, so it'll show you a list of places and prices.
Craftcloud3D maybe? I use it at work on some large parts. It's an instant-quote website, so it'll show you a list of places and prices.
I'll look into that. I need to have the files modified first, meshing two different files. But the main problem so far has been the size of the print being too large for the shops I've talked to.
Just printed these with Windshield Cowel Screw covers with ASA on a Bambu P1S. Not my design but wanted to add to this thread. The link also has the smaller screw covers at well.
1992 spec (maybe same for 1993 spec in the US) doors have different mounting style hangars from later FDs. From what I remember, they're bent metal tabs that slide into the door and hang on it. They also have a padded block that prevents door panel flex/vibration when pushed on.
If anyone could provide scans of those metal hooks it would be helpful, since replacing the panels on a 1992 spec is a pain without them, because the newer spec fasteners don't work.
Did you ever get the shifter surround done?!?!
need one bad!
Originally Posted by Redbul
@Watch_me Further to our DM here are the parts i will send you.
A Drivers door plastics bridging brace
B. RHD Shift boot collar
C.Seat Bolt cover
D.Sunshade clip
E.Sunshade bolt cover
F. Rear seatbelt Mounting bolt cover
G. Hatch strut mounting pivot cover
H. Door plastic foam bridge braces (set0
I. RHD/LHD middle counsel switch holders (2 switch)
J. RHD/LHD middle counsel switch holders (3 switch)
K. RHS/LHS small "sails"
L. Mirror base
M. (see below) Lower half LHS rear seat belt pass through/ hatch bolt cover
The moment I can perfectly replicate molded parts quality/finish straight out of the nozzle is the day I'll finally buy a printer. Can't stand layer lines and can't be fucked to do all the "bodywork" that a lot of prints require for a smooth finish lol
Just get a resin printer. They're quite a bit more expensive than FDM printers, but for cosmetic parts that don't need strength and that you want to look good, they're much better. This one is fairly large and is only about $1,200. You still have to trim the parts off with cutters and then you have to deal with toxic chemicals, but my elegoo was much less fussy than my FDM printer. https://phrozen3d.com/en-jp/products/sonic-mega-8k-s
The file link as requested. I will have to take a finished photo of it at somepoint, as the only thing I have that shows the finished product has my fatass fingers in the way.
The file link as requested. I will have to take a finished photo of it at somepoint, as the only thing I have that shows the finished product has my fatass fingers in the way.
Oh that's awesome. I hadn't considered changing the piece underneath. I don't care for how I mounted mine, it's not very secure. I might have to look into that one.
That's one thing that I wanted to make sure of. I dont like anything being loose so better to overkill than not enough. How is your **** held in place? Because of the size, id guess its a thin hex washer right? If so, im honestly surprised its loose at all.
Oh, no mine is way more janky than that lol. But it's the only way I could mount it there. I got the plug from Code Red and cut it to fit the switch. I also had to extend the post too. The switch is pretty hard to turn, I think because the base turns a little instead of being locked down. I was going to mount it where the dimmer switch is but the circuit board is a little too large to fit back there.