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Retooled drop-in map pocket lid made by TsiaOne
(The side where there is usually a pin going through the box and lid I used a small machine screw to screw into the lid to secure it in place)
Fair enough, the image upload on this site ain't the best so I gave up.. printables is a well known website most of the links on this thread are for that website so it's definitely well known.
I think Drake made a vent, should be on his site. And I believe he did a full scan of the dash. Although I doubt he'd be willing to give up too much since it's his business.
Yeah, I don't think he'll want to give it out to people especially if I'm making a competitor. Anyway I've made a new model for free on printables, this might work on other RX7s/Mazdas as well as it looked like a shared part number but even so I couldn't find cheap replacements so I just made one and printed it in TPU. RX7 FD Fuel door stopper by tingtom | Download free STL model | Printables.com I am yet to test fit this as the RX7 is at the body shop but when I visited I noticed I was missing one and the other was worse for wear!
Yeah, I don't think he'll want to give it out to people especially if I'm making a competitor. Anyway I've made a new model for free on printables, this might work on other RX7s/Mazdas as well as it looked like a shared part number but even so I couldn't find cheap replacements so I just made one and printed it in TPU. RX7 FD Fuel door stopper by tingtom | Download free STL model | Printables.com I am yet to test fit this as the RX7 is at the body shop but when I visited I noticed I was missing one and the other was worse for wear!
018770491 is the actual part fyi, $3 from the dealer but I'm sure that's a only hand full of cents worth of filament lol
Originally Posted by FD3S2005
I really want to get a 3d printer now. So many parts that can just be made.
The moment I can perfectly replicate molded parts quality/finish straight out of the nozzle is the day I'll finally buy a printer. Can't stand layer lines and can't be fucked to do all the "bodywork" that a lot of prints require for a smooth finish lol
018770491 is the actual part fyi, $3 from the dealer but I'm sure that's a only hand full of cents worth of filament lol
The moment I can perfectly replicate molded parts quality/finish straight out of the nozzle is the day I'll finally buy a printer. Can't stand layer lines and can't be fucked to do all the "bodywork" that a lot of prints require for a smooth finish lol
Can you not wet sand it and make it smoother? I know what your talking about but i figured a little wetsand and possibly paint would help it look smoother
Can you not wet sand it and make it smoother? I know what your talking about but i figured a little wetsand and possibly paint would help it look smoother
You definitely can. Adaptive layers can also help minimize the layer lines and if using ABS/ASA vapor smoothing makes a huge difference.
So what kind of printers does everyone have and how much it run you? I've seen on Amazon some from around 250+
Bambulab X1C, about $1200. Gives you a 250x250x250 build volume and the ability to print CF filaments. It's incredibly user friendly and has a short learning curve.
You're going to want something with an enclosure for almost anything you would be printing for a car. ABS/ASA/Nylon filaments really need a heated chamber to print properly.
Bambulab X1C, about $1200. Gives you a 250x250x250 build volume and the ability to print CF filaments. It's incredibly user friendly and has a short learning curve.
You're going to want something with an enclosure for almost anything you would be printing for a car. ABS/ASA/Nylon filaments really need a heated chamber to print properly.
Didnt even know the chamber gets heated.. I thought the enclosure was for noise and to protect from possible outside contaminates along with protect the user from any fumes of burning filiment..
Didnt even know the chamber gets heated.. I thought the enclosure was for noise and to protect from possible outside contaminates along with protect the user from any fumes of burning filiment..
It's for all of those reasons. The X1C's chamber isn't actively heated but with a heated build plate and heated nozzle having an enclosed chamber allows you to trap as much of that ambient heat while printing certain filaments to help prevent warping. If build plate temp and ambient temps have too much variation the print will start to warp and peel off the build plate(certain filaments are worse than others).
Even with the enclosure the fumes from ABS/ASA are still pretty bad. I run an internal two stage filter and an external VOC filter directly behind my printer to help mitigate the smell because the last thing I want is styrene floating throughout my home.
So what kind of printers does everyone have and how much it run you? I've seen on Amazon some from around 250+
I just got the Creality K2 plus with AMS which runs around $1500 shipped, but the base model without the AMS is $1200. build volume is 350x350x350.
I had the K1 max before that, which was a great printer for the price. The K1 is a bit smaller, but very affordable coming in under $400.
I also have a Creality LD-002H resin printer, which if you're afraid of layer lines is a great option. these were resin printed and painted with some SEM spray paint.
So how do you guys go about making these things for the car? Scanning tool or custom build it, print it and see if it needs to be bigger/smaller/ move something up or down?
So how do you guys go about making these things for the car? Scanning tool or custom build it, print it and see if it needs to be bigger/smaller/ move something up or down?
For me personally, everything I do is hand measured then transferred into CAD. To my knowledge, scanners dont really work on objects below a certain size, which many of the little random bits are, unfortunately. I'm privileged to have several friends that work with 3D printers everyday so I really dont have to worry about figuring out that part of the process.
So how do you guys go about making these things for the car? Scanning tool or custom build it, print it and see if it needs to be bigger/smaller/ move something up or down?
it greatly depends on the part. Parts that lend themselves to be measured easily and don't have complex 3D surfaces, I will just measure with traditional tools like calipers and angle gauges. Complex parts I 3D scan, import that into CAD and recreate model while still measuring all the features that I can.
Last edited by need-a-t2; Feb 18, 2025 at 07:09 AM.