Well what are the OP's current mods? If he's stock with no PFC he can't just remove the omp and unplug it. If I remember correctly, you'll get a CEL and limp mode for an unplugged OMP. I'm sure you can fit a resister or the like in the plug but I'm not for that kind of thing.

Mazda has built all their rotaries with an OMP. Cycling dirty crankcase oil is not the best intended source for the lubrication but as I stated we have ways around that now. I just personally like to know that I have two forms of lubrication. In the event one fails, I have a back up. In the case of full premix, as soon as injection stops, so does lubrication. That's arguably the best point made so far. I understand the OP is not going to daily his car but for the purpose of anyone else reading this thread everyone is entitled to their own opinion and can make their own decision based on what has been discussed in this thread. Thanks for your input.

Matt

 

i will be running AI...just haven't bought it yet

does that change things?

 

Well the OMP as stated, meters crankcase oil into the combustion chamber to lubricate apex seals. Unfortunately, your motor oil is not an ashless burning oil. Therefore, it contributes to the build up of carbon on your seals, rotors, etc. The addition of AI in any form adds a "steam cleaning" effect if you will. Not only does running AI help fight and deter the build up of carbon, it also significantly reduces knock and allows for safer, and leaner AFRs. AI is definitely the way to go with rotaries.

Matt

 

this i already knew, i meant would it change things as far as what type of apex lubing system to use

 

Again, I'm not getting on the premix vs. no premix part of this thread, just sticking to the original topic.

On the stainless lines - the tricky part to remember with any aftermarket part is many times people are comparing a NEW aftermarket part that's all shiny and pretty to a 100,000 mile stock part. There's no comparison there. But, how will those shiny stainless lines look after 100,000 miles and 10-15 years? They'll probably look terrible and ratty too.

Also, with regards to the oil metering nozzles - one thing we've been discussing is the failure of the built-in check valve on the nozzles. People have suggested and I believe this to be a good idea that you can place in-line with the vacuum line to the check valves some of my Viton check valves. This gets around a failed stock one with one that is a fail-proof design and costs a fraction of a new check valve.

Dale

 

If u going to do more street driving than racing keep the OMP.. The water Injection will help clean whatever dirty oil the OMP may pump i and crust up.

 

I premixed on top of my OMP when I went to get tuned. I used the blue super tech bottle from wal mart. My car smelled horrible. Very hard to imagine driving like that in CA and not have problems. As soon as I refilled the gas tank without premix smell went away.