Friday I was buzzing around in the FD, enjoying the great weather. I'd driven about 50 miles when the coolant warning buzzer came on. I pulled over as soon as I could (just happened to be a Wally World close) and let it cool down, then checked the coolant level. Yep, sure as **** it had pumped a bunch out the overflow. I filled it back up and came home, and by the time I got home (about a 35 mile trip) the buzzer was coming on again.

Remember, I had done the 'O' ring fix using the copper/sodium silicate sealer a few months ago. It seemed to work for a while.

So, except for little jaunts around town my FD is grounded, so to speak.
Now I am at that crossroads (again) of wondering if I want to put several thousand dollars into the car to rebuild the engine. I've thought about selling it for whatever I can get, and then trying to find a manual tranny version that has a new(er) engine.

Or I might just try and flush the thing out once again and do the 'fix' again. It is a cheap alternative if it works at all.

 

What block sealer product did you use and how often / hard did you drive it? Just asking cuz I did the CRC block weld fix a month ago and it's holding fine so far...but then I only drive my car about 200 miles a month max. I would say put the car back to stock or as close as you can get it...hang on to any of your performance parts and then go find a nice 5 speed, then dump several thousand into that

 

When you do finally replace the engine (and it sounds like you will), be sure to budget for a new radiator and all new coolant hoses. That block weld stuff usually plugs up the cooling system so bad that the new engine could possibly run hot and overheat right away. Not good!

Jeff

 

So since I just ordered a FMIC with Koyo (along with shifter, Greddy intake, greddy elbow ), you think I should put the stock rad back on if I am going to run more blockweld in there then wait to intall the Koyo when the rebuild happens? Probably would be the smart thing to do...

Anyway, thanks...

David

 

Do it again and leave it in this time.

 

I plan on leaving it in but do you think I should wait to install my new Koyo until I do the rebuild? I don't know if that stuff is going to clog up my new radiator...dat wud suk.

 

It only reacts when air is present, but yeah, I would wait to install the Koyo. It's pretty much mandatory to rebuild your entire cooling system when you put in a new engine. If you don't you are asking for trouble.

Everyone worries about their radiators being "clogged" internally, but the simple fact is this rarely happens.
It's kind of an urban myth. What DOES happen is that over time the fins get tons of insect parts, dust, plant parts, latex dust (from tires) and other kinds of crap clinging on them and reducing the airflow dramatically. Trouble is, you really can't see it, and you can't "backwash" it since it sticks so well.

When you pull your old radiator hold it up to a really bright light and you'll be amazed how little light filters through, especially along the bottom 1/3.

Clean fins are happy fins.

 

What do you mean "Mandatory to rebuild your entire ecooling system when you put in a new engine." What eles is there to do other than run new lines and replace the rad & water pump, and prolly the thermostat?

 

That is the entire cooling system!

 

Well.....
I am afraid of the lowered boiling point vs. coolant.
When I was doing the flushes and just had water in it, the car was HOT! Not that the temp gauge showed any abnormal reading, but there was a marked difference between how long it took to cool down enough to remove the radiator cap.

 

Pure old H20 is actually the best coolant there is.

Unfortunately it does not have lubrication for the water pump........if you toss in some Water Wetter you have taken care of the lubrication problem and significantly raised the boiling point.

The ultimate coolant - as far as I'm concerned - is Distilled Water and Water Wetter. It's worked for me for almost six years with no problems. I also live in a climate where I do not need to worry about freezing the block so I CAN get away with it. If you live in a cold climate beware: you could **** up your engine.

What you were probably experiencing was air in the system. It takes mutltiple "burps" to get it out completely.