tiger18

iTrader: (1)

Well today i did the champaign test and i got a constant stream of small bubbles from the filler cap (cack i was praying it wasnt the dreaded o-ring failure). Tomorow im gonna remove the plugs and turn the engine manually to see if water is entering the housings to see 100% if i have an O-ring failed on me. Now im poised with some questions of what to do next im gonna remove the engine and strip it becuase ive got some new turbos and a new clutch to install. What i need to know is:-
1) Why did the o-ring fail,, car was never overheated by me was rebuilt 4 years ago and has only done 18000miles.
2) why do O-rings fail, do i need to replace housings(warped) or can i just replace the o rings and reasemble.
3) When i srtip the engine what other parts will i need,, will i need those o ring washers that sit behind those long bolts that hold the engine together, is it worth changing the oil pump, would you replace all the corner seals apex ect again or re-use them (maybe just change side seal springs ect,,, i dunno)
4) And lastly is it worth porting any of the housings for more power without upsetting the streetable drive, what port size ect

Basically im after some info on what direction to go,, becuase im not sure,, thanks again everyone.

ohh last one as anyone got one of them mazda flywheel locking tools they want to sell me?

bryant

when rebuilding any motor you cant just say hey that part looks good and reuse it you have to measure and check you manual for tolerances.
if the part meets those tolerances than it can be reused.

as for porting. man thats free horsepower(per say)
a streetport is just as streetable as stock and so on, so if you have the motor open might as well get it done.

tiger18

iTrader: (1)

what about this,, are these mazda parts
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...m=290223307982

would you guys recommend only going with mazda coolant seals,,, and what about these coolant ring sheilds that mazda invented does anyone know where to get them from

wickedywick

iTrader: (3)

I looked into my filler cap and it does the same thing, but my car stays constant at 87deg C, never gets hot, no oil/coolant mixtures, no overflows. The only way you really know is a coolant pressure test.

tiger18

iTrader: (1)

Im getting lumpy start ups from cold (starting on one rotor then jumping to 2 after a few seconds),, ive got champagne bubbles at full operating temprature and im topping the coolant up every few days with no signs of an external leak from any of the pipes??? what else can it be>?