NPG+ in 110F air temperature
#51
~17 MPG
iTrader: (2)
It would seem that there haven't been any failures due to the increased metal and oil temps seen with Evans coolant. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong.
So it appears that most overheating problems are due to the extremely high localized temperatures that occur due to boilover.
Since water has superior heat transfer abilities, why not simply increase the pressure of the cooling system?
from http://www.centuryperformance.com/coolingsys.asp :
1. Pure water in a cooling system will boil (at sea level) at 212° F
2. For every pound of pressure exerted on the coolant in the system, the static boiling point of the coolant is raised by approximately 3° F.
Say we want our water to resist boiling at 270° F, that's (270-212)/3 = 19.3 psi needed. A 20psi cap should work fine. Assuming we're running an 80/20 EGW mix, our boiling point will be raised even higher. Can our coolant seals handle this?
-s-
So it appears that most overheating problems are due to the extremely high localized temperatures that occur due to boilover.
Since water has superior heat transfer abilities, why not simply increase the pressure of the cooling system?
from http://www.centuryperformance.com/coolingsys.asp :
1. Pure water in a cooling system will boil (at sea level) at 212° F
2. For every pound of pressure exerted on the coolant in the system, the static boiling point of the coolant is raised by approximately 3° F.
Say we want our water to resist boiling at 270° F, that's (270-212)/3 = 19.3 psi needed. A 20psi cap should work fine. Assuming we're running an 80/20 EGW mix, our boiling point will be raised even higher. Can our coolant seals handle this?
-s-
#53
~17 MPG
iTrader: (2)
Originally Posted by Tom93R1
Its not so much the coolant seals I would worry about that cant handle a high pressure like 20psi. I would be more concerned with all the hose connections leaking or just hoses bursting.
-s-
#54
Perpetual Rebuilder
I agree with Scotty.
The temperature you guys keep talking about (220 -230F) is only important because that is where standard coolant mixtures begin to fail (vaporize) causing hot spots and then possibly detonation or warping. Pressure is only applied to the system to increase the boiling point but it is of course a finite option. (Raises the boiling point from 212 to 230-240 max)
The benefit of evans is that even at zero pressure its range of temps far exceeds the range seen and it can continue to cool the engine without vaporizing. Sure its warmer but that is not the problem because it is not vaporizing.
Coolant failure = vaporization not a certain temp on a temp guage in a coolant system.
The temperature you guys keep talking about (220 -230F) is only important because that is where standard coolant mixtures begin to fail (vaporize) causing hot spots and then possibly detonation or warping. Pressure is only applied to the system to increase the boiling point but it is of course a finite option. (Raises the boiling point from 212 to 230-240 max)
The benefit of evans is that even at zero pressure its range of temps far exceeds the range seen and it can continue to cool the engine without vaporizing. Sure its warmer but that is not the problem because it is not vaporizing.
Coolant failure = vaporization not a certain temp on a temp guage in a coolant system.
#55
Rotary Enthusiast
Originally Posted by scotty305
It would seem that there haven't been any failures due to the increased metal and oil temps seen with Evans coolant. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong.
So it appears that most overheating problems are due to the extremely high localized temperatures that occur due to boilover.
Since water has superior heat transfer abilities, why not simply increase the pressure of the cooling system?
from http://www.centuryperformance.com/coolingsys.asp :
1. Pure water in a cooling system will boil (at sea level) at 212° F
2. For every pound of pressure exerted on the coolant in the system, the static boiling point of the coolant is raised by approximately 3° F.
Say we want our water to resist boiling at 270° F, that's (270-212)/3 = 19.3 psi needed. A 20psi cap should work fine. Assuming we're running an 80/20 EGW mix, our boiling point will be raised even higher. Can our coolant seals handle this?
-s-
So it appears that most overheating problems are due to the extremely high localized temperatures that occur due to boilover.
Since water has superior heat transfer abilities, why not simply increase the pressure of the cooling system?
from http://www.centuryperformance.com/coolingsys.asp :
1. Pure water in a cooling system will boil (at sea level) at 212° F
2. For every pound of pressure exerted on the coolant in the system, the static boiling point of the coolant is raised by approximately 3° F.
Say we want our water to resist boiling at 270° F, that's (270-212)/3 = 19.3 psi needed. A 20psi cap should work fine. Assuming we're running an 80/20 EGW mix, our boiling point will be raised even higher. Can our coolant seals handle this?
-s-
http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/coolingtext.htm (BP Table)
#56
Originally Posted by KevinK2
Yup, root cause of most o'heating conditions is loss of pressure ... could be internal through seals or cap, or external.
One thing I have noticed with water or NPG+ is that the stock turbos retain enormous amount of heat such that localized boiling occurs even with a 19psi cap on for water and hence the gurgling sound after shut down.
I can't believe I'm still fiddling with a car over 12 years old. Damn I must be an old fart.
#57
Rotary Enthusiast
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: New York
Posts: 1,050
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by pomanferrari
I can't believe I'm still fiddling with a car over 12 years old. Damn I must be an old fart.
I don't think the FD is the only car with cooling issues once you are at the track (especially when you've added 50% more power to the car). As you up the HP (HEAT) on your car, you just need better and better cooling, and is it such a bad thing to need a break within a day's time at the track?
I still would like to conclude which is better for my car, but I'm still scratching my head...
#58
gross polluter
iTrader: (2)
Originally Posted by scotty305
Hoses are relatively easy to upgrade, compared to replacing coolant seals.
-s-
-s-
#59
~17 MPG
iTrader: (2)
OK thanks Tom, I'm glad to hear that the coolant seals can take the extra pressure. In the past, I've read about the coolant system recall that involved a lower-pressure radiator cap, and that made me wonder if the problem was coolant-seal related.
If better cooling is just a pressure cap and upgraded hoses away, that would make me a very happy person... I'll have to research the cost of upgrading the pressure of the EGW system vs. converting to Evans.
-s-
If better cooling is just a pressure cap and upgraded hoses away, that would make me a very happy person... I'll have to research the cost of upgrading the pressure of the EGW system vs. converting to Evans.
-s-
#62
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Silicon Valley Bay Area
Posts: 102
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by jimlab
Yep. Assuming that the higher temperatures seen with Evans coolant means more heat is being pulled out of the metal is a common misconception, and one that Evans probably doesn't mind people making.
#63
Need more sleep
iTrader: (1)
I've run the evans in my 7 for years without issue and loved having near zero pressure on my hoses and connections plus zero chance of a hot spot due to local boiling of water based coolants.
It should be a simple decision ... if your egw mix can keep coolant temps at or below 210F then don't bother with Evans unless you like the idea of running a zero pressure system that never needs replacing and will not corrode your internals. If you see higher temps, then Evans and/or other system improvements should be considered. Evans by itself is not the solution, it merely eliminates some fundamental weaknesses of water based coolants at the expense of slightly higher bulk coolant temps.
It should be a simple decision ... if your egw mix can keep coolant temps at or below 210F then don't bother with Evans unless you like the idea of running a zero pressure system that never needs replacing and will not corrode your internals. If you see higher temps, then Evans and/or other system improvements should be considered. Evans by itself is not the solution, it merely eliminates some fundamental weaknesses of water based coolants at the expense of slightly higher bulk coolant temps.
#64
Waiting for the RX-9
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Texas
Posts: 957
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Hot Canine
Sometimes I get the feeling that one can run 0w30 oil in the cooling system and get the same results of the Evans.
#65
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Silicon Valley Bay Area
Posts: 102
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
So the conclusion is that Evans is BS?
Even more so since u can't mix water with it if ur cooling system happens to need a refill in the middle of nowhere?
Even more so since u can't mix water with it if ur cooling system happens to need a refill in the middle of nowhere?
#67
Mr. Links
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by NiM0r
So the conclusion is that Evans is BS?
On the street, Evan's really has no advantage to standard coolant/water mix.
Originally Posted by NiM0r
Even more so since u can't mix water with it if ur cooling system happens to need a refill in the middle of nowhere?
Personally, after going through this thread, I'm seriously considering runnnig Evan's after my rebuild. My car is mainly a track car so the increased boiling points and lower pressure seem to fit my needs.
#68
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Silicon Valley Bay Area
Posts: 102
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Insurance towing does have a limit on the miles. If you are so lucky to be beyond the range then your pocket book will be on a diet.
Even though Evans may run greater temp extremes I'm still not convince that Evans would do a better job in transfering/dissipating heat like traditional coolant.
Look at pure coolant. Greater temp limits if you use it pure, but can anyone tell me why water should be added?
Even though Evans may run greater temp extremes I'm still not convince that Evans would do a better job in transfering/dissipating heat like traditional coolant.
Look at pure coolant. Greater temp limits if you use it pure, but can anyone tell me why water should be added?
#69
Mr. Links
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by NiM0r
Even though Evans may run greater temp extremes I'm still not convince that Evans would do a better job in transfering/dissipating heat like traditional coolant.
#70
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Silicon Valley Bay Area
Posts: 102
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
If heat can't be dispersed faster enough wouldn't that be bad?
Side housing would heat soak and expand more often, thus shortening the life of the seals.
What about increase detonation risks?
Side housing would heat soak and expand more often, thus shortening the life of the seals.
What about increase detonation risks?
#71
Mr. Links
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by NiM0r
If heat can't be dispersed faster enough wouldn't that be bad?
Originally Posted by NiM0r
What about increase detonation risks?
#72
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Silicon Valley Bay Area
Posts: 102
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ain't greater boiling point and heat dissipation 2 different attributes?
Can't you have higher boiling point, but terrible heat dissipation at the same time?
Can't you have higher boiling point, but terrible heat dissipation at the same time?
#73
Back at it again!!
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Western Colorado
Posts: 1,324
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I can't believe you even MENTIONED running regular coolant WITHOUT water----just STRAIGHT antifreeze!!! Water is what transfers the heat----PERIOD!!! Antifreeze merely ENHANCES the water's properties of heat tranfer by raising it's boiling point and lowering it's freezing point, as well as giving the water lubricating properties for the waterpump and anti-corrosive properties for the cooling system. Without water, the antifreeze cannot transfer the heat from the engine.
Basic automotive knowledge.
Basic automotive knowledge.
#75
Mr. Links
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by NiM0r
Yeah, that's is the point I'm trying to make.