I am so effing fed up with this piece of retarded garbage, somewhere murphy is sitting and laughing his *** off from all the crap he`s been throwing my way....

Had the car all wonderful and back together after battling it for 4,5 years with pretty much every thing that could go wrong, did go wrong.., loaded map, worked like a charm, test drove it and it was just perfect running, purred like a cat.

Then, i did a quick check under the hood and found that EVERY SINGLE one of the hoses i had used for the new aezknight solenoid kit had started to crack... so i had to replace em all....
Well, did just that now.. and while doing this, my brother was so unfortunate to bump into the whole top intake, and acidentially push it onto the + pole of the battery, thereby short circuiting the whole damn car...

put the car back together, and it fires without problem, it just wont idle. When releasing the throttle, it dies. No misfiring, nothing, just falls on the revs to zero and dies. I can feather the throttle, hold it at 2000 rpm and everything is cool.. it just wont idle on zero throttle.

I have removed a shitload of things when going simplified aezknights solenoid kit, and i have removed the idle control too, so i have manual idle. Had it set at 1000 rpm... HAd adjusted the TPS perfectly too before this happened.

I am so fed up with this car right now, and the bad luck that has haunted me for the last 4,5 years.... And the fact that my father is drilling some rocks 3 feet from me REALLY doesnt help on the focus to try to solve this problem... I cant think straight now, what the hell can have gone wrong with the car?

thanks.
And sorry for the language... i am just so pissed off right now...
EVERYTHING was ready for licence plates and mapping.. and this happens...

 

i cant think in all this damn noise from the drilling.... and it will go on for hours...!

Can i have connected a hose wrong so it doesnt get enough air? For ex. the solenoid that controls the arm down on the Y-pipe?

Can i have short circuited something electrical in the unlucky process when the intake fell down on the + on battery? What could have gone wrong then?
As i said, the car starts fine, it just wont idle at all...

 

So this short circuit happened then you removed the idle air control valve? What Ecu are you running?

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no, i had everything removed BEFORE redoing the hosejob. When i had the first hosejob done and put in the aezknightz solenoid kit, everything was all cool, and running smooth.. then i did the second hosejob, and while doing it, the short circuit thing happened, and when putting the car back together now, it wont idle....

running a PFC with commander, and a datalogit.

 

i cant see that the ECU has taken a deadly hit though, all the readings from the commander, when im holding the throttle manually, reads ok?

Could it be a TPS sensor issue?

 

I don't see how the short circuit could have made its way to the tps given it's made mostly of plastic. Maybe the tps was hit/bumped and miss-calibrated it past its parameters. Check the commander for the tps value at idle.

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Did you throw the idle screw out of adjustment?

Keep the faith, maybe sleep on this one some. If you really messed something up bad it wouldn't run or idle.

 

what did the car idle at before? its not what you broke.. but what you fixed.. you might of had a vacume leak before , and when you replaced the vacume hoses the vacume leak dissapeared and the car is now not getting enough air to idle .

try adjusting the idle screw .. see if you can get it to idle.

 

It could be but i highly doubt it. Im pretty meticulous when it comes to putting things back together.
But it idleded at a cold 1100 and a warm 1300 before tuning.
stock orimaries and 1650 secondaries. Got a 70% cruise map in now.

 

that idle seems high . like there is a vacume leak or two . and also thats what i'm saying could of been a vacume leak before because of brittle hoses or a hose that popped off .and it was getting fed air through there .

 

You're stressed out and overlooking something simple. Look at the facts: You HAD it running perfect, right? Start analyzing everything that happened between then and now. As silly as it might seem, write it out like a 'fishbone chart', and eliminate everything that can't possibly by the problem, then go work the few things you suspect as causal factors. My guess is you're going to find something fairly simple.

Good luck man...we can hear the frustration but you are ALMOST THERE!

 

+1

Check all your plugs n codes. If you're not straight OG, it's super easy to put the FD back together wrong.

 

Maybe take time away from the car while there's rock drilling going on next to you.
That is not going to help your stress levels at all. Step back, go have a coffee, think about what happened from the point your butterfingers brother bumped the UIM onto the battery.
Think about how your idle circuit is set up now, on manual control, and consider the new solenoid rack. Something is off in the idle circuit.

I doubt the electrical short has done damage to the ECU, because as you said, the readings are still there and look normal. It sounds like a mechanical issue- IE a hose disconnected or now re-connected and the available air at idle is wrong compared to the previous setup.

Why not make an obvious vacuum leak- remove a hose deliberately from a nipple on the UIM and see if it will idle high with the increased air? Go from there?

 

Yep that's were I'd start

typically the tps has some little white marks that indicate the approx location if it moved you might have a quick fix.

 

I think maybe you have something else going on. 1300 rpm warm idle when it sounds like you are still running twins does not seem like a properly setup car, and why do you have it setup for manual idle anyway, was it not properly holding idle before you removed it? I would start by verifying the tps voltages, check all the baseline throttle body settings and put the iac valve back on.

 

well, i didnt sink the car outside the closest pier, but let it be a few days, and went back to it...
Did a ton of reading on manual idle, since i have removed everything i could with the block off plates, as well as removed AC and powersteering.
At first, i had to turn the air bleeder bolt about a milion times before i got it to idle on 650. Turned the air bleeder screw back in, and adjusted the throttle bolt a few mm, before adjusting the air bleeder screw 2 turns out again, and BAM... steady 850rpm on idle.

yes i know, stupid rich and 2% oil in it for now, idling in 11 AFs... getting it tuned soon.