normalwater temperatures in 105-110 ambient temp and 90% humidity
#1
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normalwater temperatures in 105-110 ambient temp and 90% humidity
Just replaced the blown engine in my RZ. Engine from JDM front cut.
The engine runs sweet on my previous Knight sports fettled ECU. The extra gGreddy temp gauge goes to 92-95 in traffic and starts to climb to 100 plus with the AC on when the ambient is 41-44 celsius.. which reads at 105 F app. I have installed a new an oil temp gauge which being non metric shows 200-210 F. It was raining last night and the temps were lower 30 -35 celsius but the water gauge temp was still in mid 90s. The instrument cluster temp gauge stays resolutely in the middle. On the open road with speed 80 km/h the temp drops to below 100 with the A/C on and low to mid 90 ish with it off.
The engine is giving some whitish smoke at startup initially but then clears on driving. The performance is Ace possibly better than my old engine. The engine is smooth and gives good oil pressures... boosts to 10. Have driven it 150 km and it has not dropped the oil or water level yet.
My question is is this behaviour normal??? Is it just the awful muggy heat we have in the monsoons with high humidity and ambient temps here in Lahore Pakistan.
The engine runs sweet on my previous Knight sports fettled ECU. The extra gGreddy temp gauge goes to 92-95 in traffic and starts to climb to 100 plus with the AC on when the ambient is 41-44 celsius.. which reads at 105 F app. I have installed a new an oil temp gauge which being non metric shows 200-210 F. It was raining last night and the temps were lower 30 -35 celsius but the water gauge temp was still in mid 90s. The instrument cluster temp gauge stays resolutely in the middle. On the open road with speed 80 km/h the temp drops to below 100 with the A/C on and low to mid 90 ish with it off.
The engine is giving some whitish smoke at startup initially but then clears on driving. The performance is Ace possibly better than my old engine. The engine is smooth and gives good oil pressures... boosts to 10. Have driven it 150 km and it has not dropped the oil or water level yet.
My question is is this behaviour normal??? Is it just the awful muggy heat we have in the monsoons with high humidity and ambient temps here in Lahore Pakistan.
#3
Rotary Freak
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JThe extra gGreddy temp gauge goes to 92-95 in traffic and starts to climb to 100 plus with the AC on when the ambient is 41-44 celsius.. which reads at 105 F app. I have installed a new an oil temp gauge which being non metric shows 200-210 F. It was raining last night and the temps were lower 30 -35 celsius but the water gauge temp was still in mid 90s. The instrument cluster temp gauge stays resolutely in the middle. On the open road with speed 80 km/h the temp drops to below 100 with the A/C on and low to mid 90 ish with it off.
My question is is this behaviour normal??? Is it just the awful muggy heat we have in the monsoons with high humidity and ambient temps here in Lahore Pakistan.
My question is is this behaviour normal??? Is it just the awful muggy heat we have in the monsoons with high humidity and ambient temps here in Lahore Pakistan.
1. the cooling system is good up to 110C but only if you have your radiator cap in perfect working order and the cap is rated at 1.3 bars.
2. the coolant must be at least 50/50 to prevent "nucleate boiling."
3. you cannot allow the car to boil aftershutdown. Symptoms of this boiling after shutdown can be heard in a closed garage and engine off. The boiling is caused by the mass of the twinturbos releasing its heat.
Solution? Run a v-mount set up or change to Evans NPG+. The latter may not be workable in your area of the world.
Off-topic: you can drive an RX7 with the roads in Lahore? I would think so for Islamabad but for Lahore? My knowledge of Lahore is 10 years old though.
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I have a turbo timer....which is on a 30 sec delay but I always allow the car to cool down first before shutting it down anyway.The fans don't run on after it shuts down which they do in my RX8.
The roads are fine ... the traffic is lousy... but I still get to exercise the cars. .Pomanferrari... you need to come back and see.... the car scene has changed greatly Evos, M3s and Even 430s, Gallardos and Continentals. I get up early morning after dawn and I live 30 km away from my golf course and want to tee off before anyone else so that I can finish and be at work.
I also have a fan over ride which I can turn on independent of the AC and the ECU.
I think I need to check this out more... started the car in the garage and got some white smoke coming from the area just behind the air pump after a single misfire???? Any suggestions???
The roads are fine ... the traffic is lousy... but I still get to exercise the cars. .Pomanferrari... you need to come back and see.... the car scene has changed greatly Evos, M3s and Even 430s, Gallardos and Continentals. I get up early morning after dawn and I live 30 km away from my golf course and want to tee off before anyone else so that I can finish and be at work.
I also have a fan over ride which I can turn on independent of the AC and the ECU.
I think I need to check this out more... started the car in the garage and got some white smoke coming from the area just behind the air pump after a single misfire???? Any suggestions???
#7
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Just social commentary: with the limited media coverage painting a picture of life in Pakistan for us here in the US (and unfortunately my ignorance as well), it's refreshing to imagine FD's and Lambos and M3's darting around the roads of your country. What a great forum! Good luck with your ride. (And golf too!!!)
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#8
Rotary Freak
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I don't know about your engine but on my last two engines, that is one of the first symptoms of the dreaded coolant seal death.
In my engines, an air pocket formed inside the housing near the top due to a combination of o-ring deterioration or housing warpage. This allowed the engine to boil where there is no coolant. This caused more damage and it continues in a feed back loop.
Next thing you know, I have trouble starting (it takes longer) and then I'm blowing white smoke until the car warms up.
For my last two engines, those were the symptoms. Upon teardown, I saw housing warpage and o-ring damage. Each engine had around 40-50k miles.
On my 3rd engine, I decided to go with Evans NPG to avoid the issue of micro-boiling and coolant boiling after shutdown. Have gotten 30K out of the reman Malloy motor running 0.8 bar and putting down 311 rwhp.
Off-topic: how do people get rich in Lahore to be able to afford Continentals and such, at least the non-govt or landowners?
I couldn't see any real middle class. It was dirt poor farmers, rich landowners and the govt (i.e., the military) who were just as wealthy as the landowners.
10-15 years ago, you don't travel at night and if you do, you bring your relatives with their Kalysnokovs and lots of money. The Kalysnokovs are for bandits and the money are for the cops.
#9
Rotary Freak
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I think you can make your car run cooler, even though your in a harsh climate zone. I was experiencing such sypmtoms when I just bought my car. Stock ORIGINAL cooling system. In the summer my temps would reach ~100 C in traffic and semi spirited driving. This is in 100 F weather.
What I did initially to brings temps into control was
-put fresh coolant 70%water 30%coolant is key. (prestone or a brand name green type coolant). I already noticed a difference.
-set the fans to come on at 85C via PFC datalogit. THis made the biggest difference.
- New thermostat. My thermostat worked fine but it was kinda old (had 45k miles). I noticed my temps dropped from an average of 88-90c in normal driving to 83-85C! I strongly recomend this to anyone with a t-stat over 35K miles. (Look into driling holes in your t-stat also)
After all this and you still want more cooling, you should then consider...
-new rad or setup (V-mount)
-re-medly waterpump
-If you dont have an airpump get an idler pulley
-ducting
-better oil coolers
I wouldnt say these are mandatory (besides the rad), but these mods will now make your car track worthy.
Armen
What I did initially to brings temps into control was
-put fresh coolant 70%water 30%coolant is key. (prestone or a brand name green type coolant). I already noticed a difference.
-set the fans to come on at 85C via PFC datalogit. THis made the biggest difference.
- New thermostat. My thermostat worked fine but it was kinda old (had 45k miles). I noticed my temps dropped from an average of 88-90c in normal driving to 83-85C! I strongly recomend this to anyone with a t-stat over 35K miles. (Look into driling holes in your t-stat also)
After all this and you still want more cooling, you should then consider...
-new rad or setup (V-mount)
-re-medly waterpump
-If you dont have an airpump get an idler pulley
-ducting
-better oil coolers
I wouldnt say these are mandatory (besides the rad), but these mods will now make your car track worthy.
Armen
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