Ripley

iTrader: (1)

Hello all. First of all I am new to working on cars in general so I just have a few questions that will hopefully help my knowledge about my car. I love my FD more than anything and I am trying to learn as much about it so that I can work on it myself and know my car in and out. Sometimes it feels a little overwhelming, but I'm not getting rid of my car ever so I need to learn. I spend most of my time searching and reading everything here on the forums and the links to other knowledge bases to further my knowledge and it is a great help.

That Being said I'll get to my questions. The previous owner of the car was not the brightest guy in the world I know this already. He rebuilt the engine himself, But I've found quite a few things that just weren't right.

I have the stock IC and a M2 upgraded ECU. First question is: the boost pattern 8-10-8 is the stock boost pattern if I remember correctly? What exactly does (8-10-8) mean? I know its the boost level, but does it mean it will boost 8 in first and 10 in second and so on?

Second: I don't know what my pattern is right now because I don't fully under stand it thus my first question. I know that my boost gets up around 14 PSI (I have a boost gauge). Will this harm my engine since I have the stock IC?

Third: The previous owner said he removed some manual boost controllers because with them it was boosting 16PSI or over and he said is not good. Shouldn't you be able to control boost with boost controllers? If so couldn't he have just turned it down. I just don't understand be cause I am new to this.

Well that is all I can think of at the moment. Hopefully I made sense. Thank you for taking the time to read this and maybe enlighten me on this stuff.

Landon

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Landon, welcome!

First, I'll write a little about the sequential twin turbo operation:

The boost pattern should be something like 10 PSI to about 4200 rpms on the first turbo, where it then drops to 8 PSI which is called the "transition". During the transition is when the 2nd turbo comes online and the boost should go back up to 10 PSI around 4500 rpms. On a stock based car, the boost will trail off to 8 PSI around redline as it doesn't have the flow to completely maintain 10 PSI to redline. Sometimes you may get spikes during the transition when the 2nd turbo comes online.

Do you know what exhaust system is on the car? 3" downpipe or stock pre-cat? Stock catalytic converter, high flow cat or straight midpipe? Stock catback or aftermarket catback?

The M2 ECU will allow the car to run higher boost than stock in a somewhat safe manner. A good safe point with the M2 ECU is 12-13 PSI max. As far as the boost control, it's possible the previous owner had installed a manual boost controller which he couldn't get to work properly. If you have any pictures of the engine bay, that might be able to provide everyone some insight as to what you are working with.

Ripley

iTrader: (1)

Thank you for the reply Mahjik! I'll get you some good pics of my engine bay as soon as I get off work. As for exhaust. I have aftermarket greddy, but ill check and see exactly what I have and post it too.

arghx

iTrader: (3)

we need to figure out what exactly is being done for boost control.

also, check out this thread on how the sequential turbo system works:

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/why-engine-so-damn-complicated-part-1-sequential-turbos-demystified-841821/ . the first couple posts are the most important

no_more_rice

mr. links is your friend

Montego

iTrader: (1)

Yeah as Mahjik said 13 psi max... past that point your injector duty cycle should be way past 85%.

Your stock IC is fine for lower boost levels (12 psi max) and some spirited driving. The stocker is incredibly inneficient and with higher boost levels it wont be able to properly cool the intake charge. Im serious I was surpised how hot the intake temps are with that IC. They seem to hoover around 60C at freeway cruise on a 25C day! Pathetic.

Ripley

iTrader: (1)

Ok heres those pics I Promiced. I wasn't really sure what exactly i was supposed to take pics of so I just tried to get as much as I could. Sorry for the medocre quality. Also Yes I know my intake is broken. I also have the battery out and my TB is out. I.ve been doing some work in there tracking down an air leak. Found the sucker btw. Anyways heres the link to the pics.

http://s830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/Ripleyv86/

Ripley

iTrader: (1)

I couldn't really see the catalytic converter so I'll get some pics or atleast find out what it is when i can jack my car.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Wow, you have a project on your hands. Foamy Engine Brite will be your best friend (just don't spray it on the painted sides of the engine bay):

http://www.gunk.com/degreasers.asp

Looks like the airpump is still there and connected so there is a good chance you have a catalytic converter. However, you'll need to slide up under the car to verify that. Even then, you won't know if it's been gutted unless you remove it and check it out. That would probably be a good thing to do anyway.

The boost control piece, you'll have to figure out (once you understand the turbo system). I know there are a few FD owners in NE, so it might not be a bad idea to see if there is anyone close who can stop by and help you check things out.

Ripley

iTrader: (1)

Hehe, yes I do. So how should my exhaust system be? Do i want the catalytic converter?

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

If you don't have a catalytic converter, then you have no need for the airpump in the engine bay. How it should be depends on your needs or use of the car. Running an open exhaust (without a catalytic converter) can open the possibility to over-boosting.

Ripley

iTrader: (1)

Well its not my DD. I hope to shoot for 400hp? Its my toy so I just want it to be fast and be able to drive it in the spring summer fall. I'm positive it still has the converter. Ill be getting new exhaust someday so I might as well find out what I need now.

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

As Mahjik indicated, some owners have been known to gut the cats. If you can, remove it and make sure it's intact. Too little restriction in the exhaust path can lead to boost creep. Not good on the stock ECU. Just be sure to get a copy of the Factory Service Manual and study the stickys at the top of this section. A wealth of info. arghx's thread that he linked you to above is also outstanding in understanding the sequential system better....which I confess I'm still not totally comfortable with even after 8 years of owning my car.

If I could offer advice...go slow with the car. Get the sequential system working decently, control boost at stock levels (10-8-10). Make sure your cooling system is solid, change coolant hoses and make sure your fans work properly. Then change the oil, coolant, brake, diff and transmission fluids so you know where your at, and fix any of the other little things (like the lack of a TB gasket) that you find. By the time you do that, you'll know ALOT more about the car, you'll have alot more mechanical experience and can intelligently add performance mods to reach your goal. In the meantime, the car is pretty fast at stock boost if running properly.

Unfortunately your at the opposite end of the State from me (Omaha area). But I think there are some experienced owners in the Denver/Ft. Collins area that might be able to help. You could start net-working in the Rocky Mountain regional section.
I tried to get out to the Mountains last year for a drive and wasn't able to fit it in around family and work. Going to try again this year....I have family in Greeley. If so, I'd love to meet up and see how it's going. If you want to PM me a number, I'll call in advance.

Josh&fd

For 400hp you'll need to do a single turbo conversion or switch them out with bnr's, then all the other things that go along with those. either way it is very pricey. If your exhaust system is stock, i would just get a downpipe for now until you become more knowledgeable. Too much upgrades to the exhaust makes it flow to much and the wastegate cant handle it, causing boost creep or spikes. then you'll need to get it ported, etc etc. If anyone contradicts what i said they are probably right. I was in your position 2 years ago and I'm still learning lots everyday. These guys are super helpful. Good luck with the car.

Ripley

iTrader: (1)

Well, I got my TB all put back together and in the car. Its tight and secure, but go figure something happened. When I was putting on the elbow I secured it with the 4 nuts and the top right bolt (if your are looking straight at the TB from the driver's side fender) broke right off. I barely turned it. So I spent about 15 mins throwing curse words. It is secured pretty good with 3 out of 4 nuts, but I'm not sure. I'm upset because I'll have to get a new TB because the bolts are attached to it. What do you guys think?

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

Post up a picture.
The studs are in aluminum and usually can be backed out with too much trouble. The only thing is you need enough left of the stud to get a small vise-grip on. Latch on to it as tight as you can and hope it breaks loose. IIRC, those are M6. If you can get it out, I might have an extra stud laying around from emissions delete that I could mail you. I'll check to make sure.
And you said you were new to doing mechanical work?? I think you can check this off the list of things you need to learn.

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

Yeah, that's one DUSTY engine bay! Dang!

The intake is the Greddy intake, which is a really nice part. The top filter is broken and I'd recommend replacing that. If you're going to do it, I'd just get 2 new K&N cone filters, they make ones that will directly replace those Greddy filters. They'll also filter better as well.

There is a plastic duct that bolts on top of the intercooler duct that normally feeds the stock airbox. IMHO, you'll be well off to remove that and block off the hole in the duct, preferably with a piece of sheet metal or something rigid (not duct tape!). That keeps the pressure up feeding the intercooler making it more effective at speed.

Keep us posted and keep cracking at it.

Dale

Ripley

iTrader: (1)

Haha, I know it's dusty. That's what happened in Nebraska. Especially when you haven't driven it in a while. So can I just hose it down or how do I go about cleaning it? Put a plastic bag over the intake filters? Ill get the pics of my broken bolt for you tonight Sgt.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Here's an older thread on cleaning the engine:

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/i-want-clean-engine-manifold-any-ideas-84187/

As for the TB stud, just fine a long bolt of the same size. Put it in place then just cut it down to the desired size and you are back in business.

Ripley

iTrader: (1)

Man Thank you so much guys. I appreciate you all very much. I'd be lost without these forums. So here's some more pics.
Is this the hole you were telling me to cover Dale?
What is this hole for? Right next to the battery?

Oh and finally heres my broken stud.


And up close.


I will deffinetly be looking into those intake filters. I wanted to go paper anways. Thanks again!

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

*The hole on top of the duct is the one DaleClark was referring to. It originally fed air to the stock intake box...which you don't have anymore. If you don't plug it up, it will allow ALOT of air to bypass your intercooler. The hole near the battery tray was to vent the battery 'box' which had a cooresponding hole to match up to it. You apparently don't have anymore either, but even if you had, I'd recommend plugging it up for the same reason. A simple, cheap and effective way is to use some upholstery foam. Black preferably, with a little silicone caulk to hold it in place.

*As for the broken stud, it looks like if you remove the intake elbow, you should have a 1/4 inch or more to grab with a small set of vise-grips. I'd put them on as tight as possible and as close to the TB (base of the exposed stud) as possible. Get a good grip and try backing it out. Once it finally breaks loose, it should turn pretty easy.
You can use a bolt of the same size to replace it, again IIRC M5 or M6, but you might have to chase the threads a little after cutting it off. No biggy. But it needs to be dealt with as I doubt it will seal properly without.

Ripley

iTrader: (1)

Does the stud have threads inside of the TB? Or do I just yank it straight out?

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

It has threads.

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

"Lefty-Loosey, Righty-Tighty".

Ripley

iTrader: (1)

Alrighty, I think I've got all of my Ducks in a row for starting her up for the first time in 7 months. Checked all of the fluids. I topped off the coolant (I may have over filled it, this might be key) and I pulled the EGI fuse and cranked the engine about 10 times. Then I put the fuse back in and started her up. I burped the coolant a couple times (releasing pressure) and I let it run for 15 mins. I drove around the block and parked then I popped the hood. Everything was nuclear hot I could ALMOST smell something burning and I could definitley hear like a boiling sound. Is this normal for not starting it for so long? It seemed way super hot. Perhaps it had something to do with how much coolant I put in. Any guidance will be appreciated thank you.