Did non-seq mod from Rotary res....

Rotary Resurrection home of the budget rebuild.

Tried search button... no good results...

Throwing codes now:
5
23
25
28
30
31
32
33
34
38
39
40
44
45
46

Most are related to rats nest...which is gone now. Resistors are installed near the ECU, Rats nest harness is gone.

Car is bridgeported, had single turbo,etc. I got the car with a bare block and MOST of the parts to make it stock...

Blockoffs and emissions removal are my only option.

FD has 3" downpipe to mazdaspeed catback, with race pipe... all else is factory, injectors, ecu, etc...

The car will only did if the map sensor is open air, if you give it ANY fuel it backfires, etc.

HELP PLEASE I used the 330 1/2 watts where did I go wrong...

 

You are planning to run a bridge ported motor on a stock ecu?

Just get an ECU now, it will save you lots of money and headache.

 

If thats your set up on a stock ecu then your problem is there....... get an aftermarket ecu.

 

yup definitely need aftermarket ecu

 

Have you installed the 330 ohm 1/2 watt resistors into all the rats nest connectors? Also, code 5 is Knock sensor which also puts the factory ecu in limp mode. Go drop $600.00 on a used PFC.

 

Yes. 330 ohm 1/2 watts installed at ecu then grounded...

-> if the ecu has a bad ground could that cause all the emissions codes?

YES, I am TRYING to get it running on a stock ecu then sell it to someone who can afford to do the rest...

So the knock sensor code throws it into limp... I believe I read somewhere else that there is a resistor bypass for that too... it has S5 housings, and I havent seen a knock sensor in the box o' parts that came with the car... so in order to get it out of limp mode that looks like my route...

I appreciate the helpfulness in suggesting an aftermarket ECU, but right now thats not an option. With that said, any other tips to just get the car running decent, and not in Limp mode... maybe run like 6lbs( if that) of boost on non seq twins.... I just want it to go down the block and maybe to the grocery store before I sell the thing...

 

Stupid question: I have 330 ohm 1/2 watt... I didn't need 330K ohm 1/2 watts did I?!?

 

you cant run less then about 7lb of boost unless you were to wire the wastegate flap open and have a permanent exhaust leak there. (due to the wastegate spring being about 7lb)

if/when you sell it, please be honest about what it needs to complete the job properly. The last thing we want (or would want to help with), is another dodgy FD being sold as good to some poor unknowing person, having it blow and giving the rotary an undeserving bad rap.

the buyer would probably even be happier getting a car that dosen't run with a good engine (and info on what it needs), then getting a car that runs but will blow up the first time you step on it!

good luck

 

Get a used PowerFC and get it running with that, forget about all the resistor crap. You will get more out of it when you sell if it runs half way decently instead of barely limping along on stock ecu.

 

I am not one to try to hide what it needs. People just like to be able to drive the car...
Powerfc is what I am leaning toward if I purchase one. I just don't want anymore money in the car....
I think I'll just post it saying it needs engine management and a tune, and whatever mods you want...

 

What are you saying here? The resistors do not run to ground, one side of the resistor is voltage, the other side is the ECU input. The ECU itself is the ground.

 

having a non running FD will cost you a couple grand in the resale price. spend the 6-700 on the pfc and get it running. you will make your money back easily and spend a lot less time on it.

 

I originally soldered in the resistors at the rats nest, but there must be a short in the harness somewhere, because I still instantly got codes for all the rats nest stuff. So I went to the ecu pin out and solder in the resistors there, but like I said I grounded one end.... If it requires voltage(which makes perfect sense now, I'm a dummy) then which pin/color should I solder into for source?

Also, I want to make sure that I used the right resistors, the rotary res guide calls for 330 ohm, are they suppose the be 330K?

Again, at this point I cannot afford a pfc or ems... So resistors are the only option. Unless someone wants to gift me a power fc for $300.00 which isn't gonna happen.

 

The only code you are really getting is the knock sensor. Even with the resistors in place it stores the codes as ghost codes. If the knock sensor code was not activated your CEL would not come on and you would have never noticed the ghost codes from the rats nest. Fix the knock sensor and you will be good to go.

David

 

I put a 270k resistor in place of it, like one of the other threads says to do. No more 5 code. But still in limp...

 

Hmm. It's just the 8 colorful connectors that need the resistors. There are a couple other codes that cause limp mode but can't recall off the top
Of my head.

 

I bought a power fc... now I am having issues with the car getting fuel... Went to the diagnostic box and jumped grnd to f/p... relay clicks. The car cranks but will not start, there is no fuel pump noise. Car will immediately start on factory ecu... Anybody? or should I start a new thread?!?

 

Did you get a commander with it? If you did , then initialize all and reset the ecu.

 

I have a commander with it, but it came with a tune on it... If I reset will I lose the tune?

 

Yes, it will revert to base map. If the map that's on it now from a car that has different specs could/will cause issues.

 

Then that will not be good for me, the tune thats on it is pretty close to having the same mods as mine...

I have read on some of the 240sx forums about the power fc for their cars having some issues not liking factory ground... Was wondering if anybody here had the same issues...

 

Last night I did a little bit of a fuel pump rewire to eliminate the stock relays...

I installed a bosch relay, ran a new hot, grounded to chassis, cut the white/red but still used it as my new hot to pump, and then ran a wire to the ecu 1T...

With all that done, the power fc runs the pump all the time with the ignition on... will start for a second then shut down... All of the rats nest crap is cut out, as well as knock sensor...

Does anybody have a clue of whats going on???

 

I forgot to mention that I also reverted the power fc to defaults...
still not right.

 

crickets... awesome.

 

Is your ignition module plugged in? Heatsink looking thing by driver side firewall.