Speedworks

Like many others I have taken the decision to convert my turbo system to non sequential. Although I did extended research before I started this I mostly found only theoretical input (scruderia website). Still I, and maybe a lot of others are still left behind with a lot of questions.

I have added some pictures to give comment to. I guess that the persons who are daring enough to take this job on are technically capable to remove the turbo's, something I already did months ago.

Pictures:
1. the exhaust manifold wastegate whit an arow where I will cut it. No need for this anymore as this is the flapper controlling the prim and sec turbo.
2. This shows the flapper cut off. On the outside part of the flapper you will need to put a weld. There is already a small plate point welded the the manifold so at least you do not need to weld it to casted steel which needs special treatment when directly welded to it (relief from tension)
3. Cut away of the flapper
4 and 5 Remove the oiline in order to be able to part the turbo's from the manifold. Make a picture to remeber what goes where.

Speedworks

1. Tools I used to cut the flapper off. Dremel, hamer and iron. I made a cut about 3/4 deep and then smacked the upper end of the iron in the slot.. 2 smacks and broke rightoff.
2. Turbo's are apart. You will need to loosen up the C-clips of the actuators. This is very simpel. Put a wide and thick flathead screwdriver against the 2 tips of the clip and tap the handheld of the screwdriver with the palm off your hand. The clip will jump right off. Remember to catcj it.
3 this is the waste gate of the primary turbo (right?).
4 Both primary and secundary turbo waste gates


the wastegae holes are 2.56 cm wide and according to the wastegate porting threads they need to be opened up untill 1.25inches (3.18cm)
A first check means that 1.25" would be as wide as the flapper plate, making me doubt if it will still close at all.

Secondly, are you supposed to port both wastegates or only one? The primary wastegate is easy accessible with the flapper open, the secondairy turbo wastegate flapper cannot be oopened fully and would give great trouble reaching the port.

Any advice?
Many thanks

Speedworks

Guys??

Speedworks

nobody has any comments on the wastegate porting? How much needs to be done and is it for both gates or just one?

I would like to do it this weekend :p

dubulup

There is only one WG port that needs to be worked.

you should remove or weld the pre-control door shut.

12anitroussandrail

does anybody know where i can get the flanges for the front and rear turbos for this year. i have the turboes and want to install them on a 1st gen 13b.

Speedworks

Yesterday I decided to do the weldings on the wastegate flappers (see pics)

1. I welded the exhaust manifld flapper. it was already cut off but to prevent it from rambling around I spot welded it.

2. The secundary wastegate has been welded. wether this is open or closed doesn't really matter anymore in my believe because the exhaust manifold door has been removed. In my opinion it's better closed therefor making the chamber between exhaust port and turbine smaller, hopefully decreasing the lag in that way. Any additional foundation for this? Well I tend to believe it creates some kind of a venturi where air is being speeded up in a natural way.
Anyway it won't speed up much here because the shape doesn't allow undisturbed flow but that's basically my theory. Closing the door will also decrease the volume of this chamber, thus lowering the amount of exhaust gases that need to fill this room before making the turbine spool.

3 additional picture of the welds.

Luckily the turbo manifolds all have little steel plates between the flapper levers and the manifold preventing you to be welding to cast steel which forces you to "untension" it by heating it up red hot or taping the part with a hammer untill it's completely cooled.

Ofcourse, this is meant to be a FULL non seq conversion. No turning back here.

Speedworks

Due to a busy schedule at work (presentation of the new '06 Hyundai Santa Fe) I had little time to work on he non seq project.

Basically I was thinking to port the wastegate with my Dremel but I returned from that option because it would take to much of my time.

The added pictures show the "tool" I used, the wastegate closed and then opened with the outher markings. Basically you need to take of 2mm all around to port it to 1.24". BUT,the wastegate is going pretty deep into the housing so I just recommend you go to a machine shop and have it machined.


to bad for the bad pictures... my digicam is just a piece of crap I guess

Speedworks

I'm also looking at the possibility to use an adjustable actuator touse on the wastegate instead of the OEm one. The brand is Forge and well known for it's quality. The internals can be exchanged with higher/lower load springs.Maybe this can contribute to limiting the boost creep and spikes?

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

I don't think it will offer any help, since porting the wastegate solves boost creep.

Using a heavier spring might work very well for people with a PFC in combination with the stock wg solenoid for boost control. But this solution couldn't possibly beat a ball-spring boost controller for value and adjustability.

But it sure does look nice.

Dave

Speedworks

Thanks, i run a PFC and the ball-spring controller was the choice to control boost. I was just thinking about the heavier spring in the adjustable wastegate actuator which would be more stabile when turning up boost.

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

I think you'll run into limits with your turbo efficiency before a stock wastegate actuator will have issues.

Dave

Jed_only_red_RX7

So did you weld both wastegates for the prime and second Turbos??

Let me know pls as im working on the same setup.

samiralfey

Try to use the macro function when taking close shots

Speedworks

Jed, I replied your PM.

Primary is not to be welded. This one needs machining to allow the wastegate for extra flow.
As i replied in the PM, Having the secundary flapper welded shut or open is up to you

Jed_only_red_RX7

Many Thanks Dude

omochi

did you have to do anything w/ ur vacuum lines?\ i'm asking b/c my nonseq ws done the same way but the rats nest was left untouched.

edit: also, this is for anyone in general- but do you have to adjust anything on a PFC if you run nonseq? in particular, set it to off for seq control? thanks

Speedworks

As far as I'm up to date with my info you can leave all the connectors of the wiring harness connected to the solenoids. At least when you are running a PFC. For other ECU's you might need to use resistors to make everything work.

Yes, the vacuumlines will need to be changed. In any case it will get a LOT more simpeler than the original setup.

These are some of the vac schemes I found during my search; Idon't know yet what is the best to work with for a FULL non seq setup. If anyone has a final version that works, please feel free to post.

omochi

sorry if this is a dumb q, but what happens if the vac lines are left untouched?

cause i believe mine werent touched, and i'm only getting 5lbs

TrevorC

what about the simplified non-seq conversion? Do you still use the turbo control solenoid's and all of that? That was my purpose of doing this so I wouldn't have to worry about these solenois anymore.....but I would still have to replace them when they go bad / if they are bad? =O(

Jed_only_red_RX7

Due to the Vacumus thats why ur getting 5lbs (as far as my short knowledge).

Jed_only_red_RX7

OFCOURSE i changed the vacum Hoses as per the Diagram available in the Forum otherwise the system wont work properly or there will be no BOOST at all.

Actulally i was going for a normal Sequential, but it didnt work out with me as i lacked a lot of parts, i was about to buy it from the State thru some good guys here, but i couldnt due to some family circumistances (BROTHER DEATH).

Speedworks

Basically you wsill end up making a vacuum setup like a single turbo (only using one wastegate). So there you will need to 'T' the vac lines of the primand sec turbo together.

What I still need to find out is how to reconnect the vac lines on the solenoids. Either to shut them of or to leave them open.

BuckyFD3

Why do you need to replace the solenoids with resistors?? This keep the ecu happy???

GustavOllufsen

couldnt you just leave the solenoids plugged in and just render them completely useless so the ecu doesnt know any better? as you would if you replaced the wastegate and precontrol with mbc's?

ha i dont wanan seem ignorant, and a non-seq has been on my mind for some time now but not too much research has gone into it, just a thought or 2 here and there.

wouldnt you just feed the pressure from both compressors to one line to the main wastegate? (ported of course) and then you could just cap off the pre-control actuator to keep it closed at all times, and just run an MBC between both compressors and the wastegate and run a very simple system that would treat both turbines as one?

Just trying not to get into all the above mentioned work :-/