Just rebuilt engine using the robinettes simplified vacuum hose diagram. Now the engine "wants" to start.. it cranks, there is spark, there is compression, "looks" like fuel lines connected properly... injectors maybe???? Doesn't seem like it is flooded... pulled spark plug out which is very clean and provides excellent amount of spark.

Any suggestions?

Located in Tempe,AZ if anyone would be willing to come look at it or provide advice via phone please call #224 856 0286. I have a fridge full of Heinekens!!!

 

it may have compression, but does it have enough compression? when you built the engine did you lubricate the rotor housings with engine oil thoroughly? how much wear did the rotor housings have? how did you clearance the side seals?

did you plug the crank angle sensor connectors in right? Also, are you sure the fuel pump is coming on when the engine turns over? Jumper the fuel pump diagnostic connector before you start the car.

 

Side seals were clearanced at .5mm b/w corner seals and engine oil was put in to lube. I'm trying some atf fluid right now. It may be a fuel issue (fuel system was primed for about 5 min) since there is no fumes out of exhaust that smell like .. fuel(when engine is cranked). Feed line has pressure. Going to test injectors right now.

Has anyone had problems with the simplified vacuum diagram? The only other solenoid i used that was not mentioned was the pressure regulator control.

Also there is a screeching noise coming from around the extension intake manifold (possibly solenoid with the white connector? not tps)

 

If you check all the basics and it still won't start, take a quick peek at your crank angle sensors. If they are damaged or improperly positioned, the engine will crank all day, but will not start-

 

We got the car push started and it runs great! The only problem now is it will only run when push started... the starter just cranks but no combustion.. also wont idle.. i have to keep it above 1200 rpms

what solenoids (like isc?.. which is screeching) would i have to look into???

 

open the throttle plates with the throttle adjusting screw on the front of the TB. there is a diagram of it in the idle setting procedure in the fuel section of the FSM. it has a locknut on the bottom. I would expect it to need a higher idle for the initial part of engine break-in.

I really hope you meant .05mm because the spec is .05-.15mm (2-6 thousandths of an inch). if you really clearanced them to .5mm (about 20 thousandths) I can't see the engine ever making much compression

 

This man speaks the truth