dboy160

So long story short picked up non running 93 fd from dude on craigs. Dude said starts sometimes he thinks its starter is bad, this being my 2nd one i figure its either ignition switch (problem my first had) or the security jumper relay thingy. Battery dead when we went to look at it so i couldnt test anything but i figured worst case scenario it needs a new engine which i have a spare the guy wanted 5.5k so **** it...
Get home start working on car, this thing was wired all funky. Ecu was pulled out not connected, fan motors ghetto rigged to a switch. Boost gauge vaccum line was T'd into map sensor instead of going to uim. The aftermarket headlights though were wired up correct as far as i can tell.

Anyway long story short im getting this thing to turn over but wont start. I figured out im not getting spark to the wires. I checked the plugs going to the coils and with the key to the on position i meter out 12v on according to the fsm wire "A" its the black/red trace. Also on the ignitor im getting 12v power on wires g e f and b. As far as that goes i have no idea what else to do to test this stuff any further. So any help would be appreciated. Also i dont this matters but my gauge cluster is screaming at me oil and water light on but im good on those i figured id troubleshoot that one i can get engine running

dboy160

No ideas?
Ive swapped ignitors and that didnt help. My next step will be to to get to the cas and test continuity from wires to ecu when i have some time most likely this sunday.

dboy160

So today I was able to test the crank angle sensor wires and I found some weird splicing in my engine harness by the ecu. In the images the green circles are the cas wires that go to ecu pin 4H. On my pinout sheet it only has 3 wires for the cas 4E 4H and 4G but the CAS has 4, 2 for each but if 2 are separate signals and the other 2 are power?(didnt think to test if its getting voltage) it would make sense if they were spliced together kind of and I know the haltec ecu says those wires are shared on the same 4H pin. Anyway ecu pin - cas connector each wire had continuity to the respective ends.

I also noticed that 2 other wires were spliced, its the red circle in the pictures. The wires are going from a brown shield to bare wire and a colored wire. The white one goes to ecu pin 3m (knock sensor) and the black wire goes to ecupin 3c (02 sensor), the bare wires are tied into the black grounding strap.

So my question to the pictures is... Is all that normal, or did a previous owner make some "modifications"? It just seems odd of mazda to leave it like that if it is stock

Also I tested the lines going from ecu to ignitor and all had continuity(1G-A,1H-F,1J-C)

I have not checked resitance because I think my voltmeter is broken all it ever says is OL (maybe im checking wrong?)

Another thing I noted today was that when I do crank my tach does not bounce at all...

Anyway any input would be helpful...

ondabirdhouse

iTrader: (26)

what pics?

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

what pics?

the CAS is an ac voltage generator, so there are 3 wires, the NE signal wire, the G signal wire and a shared ground wire. the ground wire splits into two branches because there are two sensors.

if the CAS does not work, you will not get spark or fuel, as the ecu needs rpm as one of its signals

the FD is a little tricky, but if the tach doesn't bounce this is a clue that the CAS isn't working, as the tach is an output from the ecu.

my own car has a bad CAS connector, so it usually runs, but will stall after running for a while, and the other day it was just dead. i get an intermittent code 2, so i know where to look at least

dboy160

I have no idea y the pictures didnt post im sorry. Ima try uploading them again with this post but it will be without green/red circles.

Anyway another update. Woke up early this morning to do some more testing, I decided to test the main relay? (yellow one on left) so i pulled it off as ive done before to check for corrosion but this time i was gonna check to make sure it worked when applied power and ground to terms A and B. So i do it clicks and check continuity to terms C-D and its good, remove power and no continuity so relay is working perfect. Then with relay out I turned Key to the on position and went to put relay in to see if it'd click, it worked but this time i heard a weird humming coming from near the uim so something told me to try and start.

Hop in the car turn key and this time the tach was bouncing heard a couple pops from the exhaust and then BANG! misfire. So Im getting spark now magically but now my tach is staying on 9k even with key out

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

you first pic is the shield ground, the CAS, knock, and o2 sensor wires are shielded, as the signals are important, and small. so that little grounded junction is factory.

the second pic, is where the ground side of the CAS wires are spliced together.

dboy160

So then thats normal?

dboy160

So i finally got it running tonight. I havent had time to work on it since my last update. All i did today was basically put the throttle body back on and try to start it. I have a feeling that the main relay was stuck open.

Also the tach started working so im thinking the 9k rpm freeze in my case was cause i had tps disconected.

Now i get to diagnose why the fans arent working and why it was smoking so bad in the engine bay but not sure entirely where but its on the turbo side... could it be from it sitting for so long or maybe a bad gasket or because the intercooler and one intake wasnt put back on it? It was dark when it was running and i forgot to look to see if the exhaust was smoking or not