No power at main fuse
12-14-15, 09:36 AM
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No power at main fuse
Hey guys, so having a weird issue.
Plugged everything back in and attached the battery which is in the rear and turned the ignition on and everything seemed to be working fine for about a minute( display wise didn't turn over the motor as it isn't completed yet) and suddenly everything switched off. So thought the main fuse went so got a new one and tested battery and all is ok, turned the key and stayed on for a minute and did the same thing, tested the connections at the battery and getting 12.6 volts, then tested the cable at the main fuse and getting 1.3v? Is the cable to the positive thermal degraded or what is the issue?
Anybody seen or heard of this before?
Plugged everything back in and attached the battery which is in the rear and turned the ignition on and everything seemed to be working fine for about a minute( display wise didn't turn over the motor as it isn't completed yet) and suddenly everything switched off. So thought the main fuse went so got a new one and tested battery and all is ok, turned the key and stayed on for a minute and did the same thing, tested the connections at the battery and getting 12.6 volts, then tested the cable at the main fuse and getting 1.3v? Is the cable to the positive thermal degraded or what is the issue?
Anybody seen or heard of this before?
12-14-15, 10:43 AM
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Ok so just ran a 0 gauge wire from battery to main fuse box, tested before fitting to box:12.6v after fitting to fuse box 1.6v, so now I have no idea what's going on?
12-15-15, 02:17 AM
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Going to shine up the main ground to the battery in the rear and connect my starter up to the harness, might be the fusible link to the starter that is drawing all the power but not sure if there is a fusible link there, any ideas guys would be appreciated.
12-15-15, 11:23 AM
#4
Was the fuse blown? If so, it's a short. If you replaced it w/o knowing it was blown or not, check the resistance from the positive wire that connects to the main fuse to a ground (chassis/block/etc). If there's no to little resistance, it's a short. If it's infinity, check the resistance from the same wire back to the positive battery terminal connection. if you get resistance there, there's a loose connection somewhere.
12-17-15, 03:36 AM
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12-18-15, 02:45 AM
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12-21-15, 02:57 AM
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Happened again, hadn't wired up my starter yet and as soon as I connected the battery bam, no power to the fuse box, I think Im going to rewire the starter and ground it, where would be the best place to ground the starter to?
12-23-15, 02:35 AM
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Redid all the grounds last night and still no luck, added more grounds to tranny and UIM etc, next thing Im going to do is disconnect the cable for the starter and alt and test, if there is still no power will disconnect the cable to the other fuse box and see, hoping there is a short in the engine harness and not somewhere else, otherwise will call in professional help.
12-23-15, 10:50 AM
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So took both power cables off the main fuse box and got power to it, had 12.6v then a couple minutes later only 5.3v, so undid the grounds on the front of the car going to the body harness and no change, change the 40a fuse and no change, I don't know what to do now. Any advise would be appreciated.
12-24-15, 11:52 AM
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Hey man, sorry for the delay, I may have some information from my experiences to get you headed in the right direction.
Here's how you can make sure all of your grounding, grounds, and power supply lines are in good shape.
To run a continuity test you'll need a multimeter that can test for Ohms, if you don't have one you can get a decent one for $30-$50. It's good to have on hand for household electrical tests and for a lot of automotive applications, just make sure if you do purchase one that it is DC capable. They usually will be able to find AC voltage, DC voltage, Resistance (Ohms), and Continuity (ring out). The more high end units can test for Amperage too, but this is not necessary for what you need to do.
This will tell you if there is a break in the wire, blown fuse, or poor (no) connection in general.
Test first for continuity:
First, and most simply you can test for continuity. In automotive applications continuity is in relation to the ground (black wires or the frame of the car). You want to make sure any of the power wires aren't grounding out through either a component, the frame of the car, or a black wire. Anything that can be a ground can be a problem because there's a loss of voltage.
Remove the wire or wires in question from whatever component it may go to, doing this takes out the chance of reading continuity through a device such as a radio. Turn the meter on to test for Continuity (or ring out). Sometimes its a symbol with three or four lines of sound waves. Touch the two leads together and make sure it makes noise!
Take the terminated end of the wire in question and touch it to one of your leads, then take the other lead and touch it to something that is certainly a ground such as the frame of the car.
Any ground wire SHOULD have continuity (make noise) when testing to ground.
Any power wire (usually red) SHOULD NOT have continuity (make no noise) when testing to ground.
If everything appears to check out, then test for resistance (Ohms). It's the same test except now you're dealing with numbers. If there is an extraordinarily high reading, there is a good chance there is something wrong with the wire or it is too small for the application. I don't know what the resistance values should be for automotive wiring but equal sized wires of equal length should have the SAME resistance, every time.
It's really a whole lot simpler when actually testing for continuity than it seems by the length of what I just wrote.
I'm not an automechanic but I do run an electrical company and hold 9 electrical licenses in New York and this is something we do very frequently with AC applications. My LS swapped FD had a ton of problems and that's when I realized that its the same concepts and eventually got everything up and running. I also rewired my last Supra turbo.
For now, don't worry too much about the voltage, you can make sure all of your grounds are good, that is the best place to start. And then if you do need to take the car to someone, at least you can start them off on the premise that your grounds are all good.
I hope I was some kind of help!!
Good luck!
Here's how you can make sure all of your grounding, grounds, and power supply lines are in good shape.
To run a continuity test you'll need a multimeter that can test for Ohms, if you don't have one you can get a decent one for $30-$50. It's good to have on hand for household electrical tests and for a lot of automotive applications, just make sure if you do purchase one that it is DC capable. They usually will be able to find AC voltage, DC voltage, Resistance (Ohms), and Continuity (ring out). The more high end units can test for Amperage too, but this is not necessary for what you need to do.
This will tell you if there is a break in the wire, blown fuse, or poor (no) connection in general.
Test first for continuity:
First, and most simply you can test for continuity. In automotive applications continuity is in relation to the ground (black wires or the frame of the car). You want to make sure any of the power wires aren't grounding out through either a component, the frame of the car, or a black wire. Anything that can be a ground can be a problem because there's a loss of voltage.
Remove the wire or wires in question from whatever component it may go to, doing this takes out the chance of reading continuity through a device such as a radio. Turn the meter on to test for Continuity (or ring out). Sometimes its a symbol with three or four lines of sound waves. Touch the two leads together and make sure it makes noise!
Take the terminated end of the wire in question and touch it to one of your leads, then take the other lead and touch it to something that is certainly a ground such as the frame of the car.
Any ground wire SHOULD have continuity (make noise) when testing to ground.
Any power wire (usually red) SHOULD NOT have continuity (make no noise) when testing to ground.
If everything appears to check out, then test for resistance (Ohms). It's the same test except now you're dealing with numbers. If there is an extraordinarily high reading, there is a good chance there is something wrong with the wire or it is too small for the application. I don't know what the resistance values should be for automotive wiring but equal sized wires of equal length should have the SAME resistance, every time.
It's really a whole lot simpler when actually testing for continuity than it seems by the length of what I just wrote.
I'm not an automechanic but I do run an electrical company and hold 9 electrical licenses in New York and this is something we do very frequently with AC applications. My LS swapped FD had a ton of problems and that's when I realized that its the same concepts and eventually got everything up and running. I also rewired my last Supra turbo.
For now, don't worry too much about the voltage, you can make sure all of your grounds are good, that is the best place to start. And then if you do need to take the car to someone, at least you can start them off on the premise that your grounds are all good.
I hope I was some kind of help!!
Good luck!
12-26-15, 09:52 AM
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Hey man, sorry for the delay, I may have some information from my experiences to get you headed in the right direction.
Here's how you can make sure all of your grounding, grounds, and power supply lines are in good shape.
To run a continuity test you'll need a multimeter that can test for Ohms, if you don't have one you can get a decent one for $30-$50. It's good to have on hand for household electrical tests and for a lot of automotive applications, just make sure if you do purchase one that it is DC capable. They usually will be able to find AC voltage, DC voltage, Resistance (Ohms), and Continuity (ring out). The more high end units can test for Amperage too, but this is not necessary for what you need to do.
This will tell you if there is a break in the wire, blown fuse, or poor (no) connection in general.
Test first for continuity:
First, and most simply you can test for continuity. In automotive applications continuity is in relation to the ground (black wires or the frame of the car). You want to make sure any of the power wires aren't grounding out through either a component, the frame of the car, or a black wire. Anything that can be a ground can be a problem because there's a loss of voltage.
Remove the wire or wires in question from whatever component it may go to, doing this takes out the chance of reading continuity through a device such as a radio. Turn the meter on to test for Continuity (or ring out). Sometimes its a symbol with three or four lines of sound waves. Touch the two leads together and make sure it makes noise!
Take the terminated end of the wire in question and touch it to one of your leads, then take the other lead and touch it to something that is certainly a ground such as the frame of the car.
Any ground wire SHOULD have continuity (make noise) when testing to ground.
Any power wire (usually red) SHOULD NOT have continuity (make no noise) when testing to ground.
If everything appears to check out, then test for resistance (Ohms). It's the same test except now you're dealing with numbers. If there is an extraordinarily high reading, there is a good chance there is something wrong with the wire or it is too small for the application. I don't know what the resistance values should be for automotive wiring but equal sized wires of equal length should have the SAME resistance, every time.
It's really a whole lot simpler when actually testing for continuity than it seems by the length of what I just wrote.
I'm not an automechanic but I do run an electrical company and hold 9 electrical licenses in New York and this is something we do very frequently with AC applications. My LS swapped FD had a ton of problems and that's when I realized that its the same concepts and eventually got everything up and running. I also rewired my last Supra turbo.
For now, don't worry too much about the voltage, you can make sure all of your grounds are good, that is the best place to start. And then if you do need to take the car to someone, at least you can start them off on the premise that your grounds are all good.
I hope I was some kind of help!!
Good luck!
Here's how you can make sure all of your grounding, grounds, and power supply lines are in good shape.
To run a continuity test you'll need a multimeter that can test for Ohms, if you don't have one you can get a decent one for $30-$50. It's good to have on hand for household electrical tests and for a lot of automotive applications, just make sure if you do purchase one that it is DC capable. They usually will be able to find AC voltage, DC voltage, Resistance (Ohms), and Continuity (ring out). The more high end units can test for Amperage too, but this is not necessary for what you need to do.
This will tell you if there is a break in the wire, blown fuse, or poor (no) connection in general.
Test first for continuity:
First, and most simply you can test for continuity. In automotive applications continuity is in relation to the ground (black wires or the frame of the car). You want to make sure any of the power wires aren't grounding out through either a component, the frame of the car, or a black wire. Anything that can be a ground can be a problem because there's a loss of voltage.
Remove the wire or wires in question from whatever component it may go to, doing this takes out the chance of reading continuity through a device such as a radio. Turn the meter on to test for Continuity (or ring out). Sometimes its a symbol with three or four lines of sound waves. Touch the two leads together and make sure it makes noise!
Take the terminated end of the wire in question and touch it to one of your leads, then take the other lead and touch it to something that is certainly a ground such as the frame of the car.
Any ground wire SHOULD have continuity (make noise) when testing to ground.
Any power wire (usually red) SHOULD NOT have continuity (make no noise) when testing to ground.
If everything appears to check out, then test for resistance (Ohms). It's the same test except now you're dealing with numbers. If there is an extraordinarily high reading, there is a good chance there is something wrong with the wire or it is too small for the application. I don't know what the resistance values should be for automotive wiring but equal sized wires of equal length should have the SAME resistance, every time.
It's really a whole lot simpler when actually testing for continuity than it seems by the length of what I just wrote.
I'm not an automechanic but I do run an electrical company and hold 9 electrical licenses in New York and this is something we do very frequently with AC applications. My LS swapped FD had a ton of problems and that's when I realized that its the same concepts and eventually got everything up and running. I also rewired my last Supra turbo.
For now, don't worry too much about the voltage, you can make sure all of your grounds are good, that is the best place to start. And then if you do need to take the car to someone, at least you can start them off on the premise that your grounds are all good.
I hope I was some kind of help!!
Good luck!
Will give it a try, I have a multi meter but it's old but still works, thanks again man!
01-05-16, 03:18 AM
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Ok so I confused now, I went through everything and found that the "ground" for the main engine harness as per the pic below circled in red isn't a ground? I went back into my pics that I take before disassembling items on the car and found that the"ground" was connected to the main fuse box, I quickly connected it up this morning and got 12.7v at the main fuse and all systems seem to be working. Not sure if it is 100% but will check it out again once I reconnect the starter power cable to the main fuse box. Any ideas why the ground to inner fender would be connect to the main fuse box?
01-06-16, 03:12 PM
#18
When I had this issue last year, it was due to an ignition switch. When I took out the old ignition switch it basically fell apart. I've replaced it with a new ignition switch and didn’t have any issues for a while and since 12/23 I've been having sporadic issues. Sometimes it will start and sometimes it won’t and will randomly die then after I move the car back and forth it will randomly get power.
That ground wire you are referencing is a power wire for the alternator. See top wire on the pic below. As you can see it one ring terminal and that goes to the alternator.
The other wire that that has two ring terminals goes to your starter.
On the driver side of the main fuse block you should have another power that leads into the other fuse block by your strut tower.
That ground wire you are referencing is a power wire for the alternator. See top wire on the pic below. As you can see it one ring terminal and that goes to the alternator.
The other wire that that has two ring terminals goes to your starter.
On the driver side of the main fuse block you should have another power that leads into the other fuse block by your strut tower.
01-07-16, 05:34 AM
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When I had this issue last year, it was due to an ignition switch. When I took out the old ignition switch it basically fell apart. I've replaced it with a new ignition switch and didn’t have any issues for a while and since 12/23 I've been having sporadic issues. Sometimes it will start and sometimes it won’t and will randomly die then after I move the car back and forth it will randomly get power.
That ground wire you are referencing is a power wire for the alternator. See top wire on the pic below. As you can see it one ring terminal and that goes to the alternator.
The other wire that that has two ring terminals goes to your starter.
On the driver side of the main fuse block you should have another power that leads into the other fuse block by your strut tower.
That ground wire you are referencing is a power wire for the alternator. See top wire on the pic below. As you can see it one ring terminal and that goes to the alternator.
The other wire that that has two ring terminals goes to your starter.
On the driver side of the main fuse block you should have another power that leads into the other fuse block by your strut tower.
I think I know what they are but need conformation before I reconnect them as I have a single turbo.
Black/red stripe: ???
Black/light green stripe: ???
Black/ brown stripe: ???
Brown/White stripe: ???
all these above wire have been cut and left in the harness, the Black with light green stripe looks like it connects back into the coil pack section but have no idea what it is for and have looked at the diagram but not 100% clued up on how to read them correctly.
Any help would be appreciated.
I also found that the power steering pump wire (yellow/blue stripe) was fried and was most likely causing issues as well as the starter main power was also striped and most likely grounding somewhere and causing my fuses to blow.
Hopefully after I connect and fix all of this it will fixed for good.
01-08-16, 01:28 AM
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01-11-16, 02:18 AM
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Rewired the engine harness and all was fine, put the key in to test and got the beeping sound and all of a sudden clip and no power again, yay back to the drawing board again, so sick of it, going to have to go through all the fuses and wires again. FML!!!
01-11-16, 06:09 PM
#24
i know the feeling and sound. I've been having the same intermittent issue since 12/23.
I'd recommend make new terminals and running a ground from the battery to the engine. I grounded mine to the top starter bolt. So from the batter I have a ground at the strut tower and at the engine. It starts right now not sure if it will start next time but it has started 6 times in the last 2 days.
I'd recommend make new terminals and running a ground from the battery to the engine. I grounded mine to the top starter bolt. So from the batter I have a ground at the strut tower and at the engine. It starts right now not sure if it will start next time but it has started 6 times in the last 2 days.
01-12-16, 02:07 AM
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Tested the ground for the battery and its solid, might get some new terminals as mine are the old style ones but still very strange that it isn't working, I quickly checked fuses last night and all are ok so one of the local guys is coming through on Saturday to help me out because I am at a loss now, can't find the short and starting to loose interest in the car all together, have put it up for sale on a local site to see if I get any offers so long but I know the minute its fixed Im going to be right back into it!!!