No oil in OMP nylon lines?
No oil in OMP nylon lines?
Installed a new OMP with new OEM clear nylon lines. I also used premix (0.5 oz per gallon) for extra insurance. I'm glad I did because no oil has flowed through the lines in the 15 minutes the car has been running. Is this normal?
I bought an earlier version of the OMP new. I'm still running the old nozzles but cleaned them thoroughly with brake fluid and a pressure pump, both were able to pass fluid and couldn't pass air if you reverse it, which is good. I’ve heard the only major failure point is the nozzles, and they’re the only used part in the system. I also heard that a sign of failed nozzles is oil in the primary turbo inlet, since that’s where "vacuum" is used to feed the nozzles, so I’ll keep an eye on that.
Lastly, I verified that the OMP unit is working by monitoring the voltage on my PowerFC, and it does change with throttle input.
Has anyone else had this issue? I’ve heard it can take two full tanks to prime the system, which sounds crazy, but I just need some reassurance so I can be more patient. Getting to the nozzles is a huge PIA.
I bought an earlier version of the OMP new. I'm still running the old nozzles but cleaned them thoroughly with brake fluid and a pressure pump, both were able to pass fluid and couldn't pass air if you reverse it, which is good. I’ve heard the only major failure point is the nozzles, and they’re the only used part in the system. I also heard that a sign of failed nozzles is oil in the primary turbo inlet, since that’s where "vacuum" is used to feed the nozzles, so I’ll keep an eye on that.
Lastly, I verified that the OMP unit is working by monitoring the voltage on my PowerFC, and it does change with throttle input.
Has anyone else had this issue? I’ve heard it can take two full tanks to prime the system, which sounds crazy, but I just need some reassurance so I can be more patient. Getting to the nozzles is a huge PIA.
To verify my OMP was working I pulled the oil tubes from the carb and slipped a sheet of paper towel under the tubes. Ran the engine for a few minutes and was able to confirm the OMP was good when the oil slowly dribbled out onto the paper towel.
premix as well (Idemitsu) just in case...
premix as well (Idemitsu) just in case...
A few things to note. The electronic actuator in the OMP does not pump, it only limits the amount of flow. The pumping of oil is a combination of (a) mechanical pumping via the worm gear that interfaces with the eccentric shaft inside the front cover; (b) vacuum from the engine drawing oil from the check valves; (c) capillary action through the tubes.
So, verifying the OMP is working via the ECU is only telling you that the metering side of the equation is working. If no oil is flowing, it has to be one of the mechanical part of the OMP, the nozzles (check valves) or a leak somewhere in the system.
So, verifying the OMP is working via the ECU is only telling you that the metering side of the equation is working. If no oil is flowing, it has to be one of the mechanical part of the OMP, the nozzles (check valves) or a leak somewhere in the system.
Last edited by KYPREO; Feb 26, 2025 at 06:32 PM.
I recently replaced my oil coolers and installed new lines, so the fresh oil is extremely clear and hard to see. I'll wait until it darkens a bit before checking again.
I should add to my post above. If the stepper motor side of the OMP stops working for whatever reason, it will still deliver oil. It will be metering at whatever position the stepper motor was last in when it stopped working.
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