Well here is what we found after the engine pull:



here is where I fried the inner bearing...see the skid marks?


this is pic of the side seals...they are frozen flat and see the metal to metal scuffs


the side housings didn't like running without oil either



The turbos seemed to have survived...but the freaking housing has cracks!!!grrrrrrrrr

 

Damn man, that really sucks.

BTW - I dont think those exhuast will cause you any problems. When I pulled mine off to do the stage 3's mine was way worse than that and I'm still using it no problem.

STEPHEN

 

Nice pics. Do yourself a HUGE favor. Remove the engine harness from the car and install the motor with the harness attached to the engine.

The cracks in the turbo are medium sized. Don't worry about them, the turbos will work just fine.

 

Go NON-SEQ and the cracks (really big one) really won't mean a thing.

 

really?! Thanks for the turbo advice...

Turbojeff,
The mechanics here at Marvelspeed in texas kinda have the engine pull/install thing to an art...I just kinda pulled off a bolt here and there to make me feel better that I was helping

 

I hope mine don't look like that when I take my engine apart. Cracks in the turbo manifold are common for higher mileage turbos.

 

Is it due to the material that the turbo housing is made out of and the high heat?

do the 99's fare better?

Anyways...they are going to spec out the parts to see how many of them are FUBAR...

but the funny thing is at least the apex seals survived a blown engine! Is that a first???

 

my original engine everything was shot but the apex seals

 

man, if the cracks are like that just at the exaust port side.... check the inside of them.. that will be even worse,

gl w/ the engine man.. im just getting all my **** back together

 

oh damn! Well not the first...

anyways, if anyone is curious I was running synthetic...but it wasn't like those infomercials...

 

Hope to see it together soon. Come out to TMS this Sunday and bum rides!

 

OK. I can't imagine them thinking it is easier to leave the harness in the car while they pull the motor. Sorta like building a boat in a bottle. I'd be interested to hear why they think it is easier that way.

Removing the harness with the engine allows the mechanic to stand up and fully walk around the motor to remove the harness from the motor. Removing the harness from the engine while it is in the car means you have to pretty much strip the top of the motor down to the block all while bending over your pretty fenders. Back for my knees, back and your fenders.

Like I said, it was just a suggestion, lots of times those shops have "new" mechanics, maybe you got one of them.

Either way good luck with the rebuild.

 

Here is a pic of some cracked turbos. They produce boost just fine, reinstalled about 5K miles ago, no problems.