I'm pretty sure that's one of the hoses I originally found disconnected then reconnected (failure to install while putting everything back together). I'll check again tomorrow to verify. That's the black box thing behind the throttle body, right?

I found another video (not with the same starter sound as mine, but still no engine putter).

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5lFA0uerru0

The poster of the video stated this ended up being the solution/problem:
I guess I should have put up a video of when it started. it was pretty funny. So what happens what that you should never ever ever shut it off before it warms up. The problem was that a seal got stuck, so it wouldn't build compression correctly, and so after putting a spoon full of oil through the spark plug holes and turning over with the EGI fuse pulled, I managed to get it to fire up. It started very hard the first time, but it has been fine ever since.

Please let me know if that seems like a viable solution as well as if that would be the correct process to fix a stuck seal.

 

I doubt you have a stuck seal.

If you removed the rats nest and/or were screwing around under the UIM replacing vac hoses, you will want to recheck the vacuum hoses that go to the Fuel Pressure Regulator. You will also want to check the positioning of the one way check valves to make sure they are pointing in the correct direction. And replace any ones that you clogged by trying to glue them together.

Working on that part of the car is very difficult and can be confusing.

Also try and make sure that you didn't break any wires or forgot the plug something in. The wiring harnesses on these cars, especially under the UIM, get very brittle from heat over time. If your vac hoses and solenoids were as brittle as you explained, chances are the wiring is as well. It would be very easy to accidentally break a wire and not notice it.

 

moving this to the main forum since this is an advanced topic

 

Thanks a lot for that! I was just considering starting a new topic on my new problem here.

I'll go through everything you stated. Most of it though, I have checked over and over, but it's worth another shot.

You think the FPR will have all of these symptoms? Seems unlikely to me, but you know more than I do so I'm excited to try. That was one of the vacuum lines disconnected that I mentioned earlier and reconnected. The car started without it, just very rough. The check valve I originally glued has been replaced by a brand new. So all is good there

I'm beginning to get a sick feeling in my stomach that I somehow blew all 6 seals.

FD experts, please help!

 

so when you turn your car over there is no "chug chug chug" sound?
it just spins? like "wiirrrr"
if so, the cog on your starter may be jammed and not flying out and engaging the flywheel.

that wouldent explain the car just dying through.

another posibility is you destoryed your engine and it has no compression so it just spins with no "chug chug chug" because of no compression

EDIT; just read that your belts are spinning so i guess that rules out the stuck starter cog

 

That first video is a blown engine...notice the total lack of compression noise. The second one might have 1 good rotor.

 

That's what I thought, but i just didn't want to believe it. Sigh... This has been a bad month for my 7.

 

Hey Mate, As Gracer 7 says... check everything you have done and check those things he mentions.
I spent hours just studing the vaccum system and diagrams..getting a beter understanding before i even tackled working on mine. They are a very complex system. It is VERY easy to get a vac hose around the wrong way or leave something un-plugged, so i would remove the inlet manifold if i where you and take a long hard look at everything you have touched, or something brittle that has broken while you where woking away on it without noticing.

Also make sure the solenoids you changed are correct, as even though they look the same there are different types.. for example in the black box you have 7 solinoids... 4 of one type and 3 are of a different type.. yet they look identical...but the numbers and are not.
If even after all this you dont find anything and does not start, then do a compression check with a tester, this will reveal your engines health if it is to be the problem

 

First, I'm going to try and turn the engine by hand and see if I feel compression. Once I get a hold of a compression tester I'll actually check the rotors.

Then, I'll go into taking off the UIM and digging into everything I touched/took off.

I do like the optimisim, but optimisim doesn't fix a blown engine

 

Haven't had enough time to get a compression test done or really anything at all. Here's a video of my car. Sorry for the bad view, I had to do this with a phone and alone. I made it so you could at least see the belt.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lnboe...ature=youtu.be

 

I must've gotten something from being at Nurburgring all day Friday because I didn't feel well all weekend so I never had the chance to work on my car.

I found this thread that contained the first video I posted (lucky find!).
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/help-car-turning-not-cranking-all-video-link-841828/

It seems that his engine wasn't blown which does give me some hope! What would be the best kind of oil to use inside the spark plug holes?

 

i have a similar problem

 

What are your symptoms? Maybe we can work this out together. I saw your thread on running too rich. I'm not sure if my problem was exactly the same as yours, but once my car came to a stop (when it was running) I could smell fuel.

 

After i removed my rats nest, re-plumbed the fuels system installed new turbo exhaust ect ect. My car would turn over like that. I hooked a timing light up to a high tension line (spark plug wire) and it didn't register a spark while i turned it over. Car sat on jack stands for 3 weeks or so. When i first started cranking on it it sounded like it had no compression and the injectors where running. I could smell raw fuel. I installed a rtek 1.8 with the fuel cutoff built in on WOT cranking. After a few tries of unflooding and cranking the timing light eventually started registering a erratic signal, then the engine started sputtering. After cranking for a bit longer I was getting a strong spark signal and the engine finally fired up.

I would suggest using a spark tester or timing light to confirm that you are getting spark, then double check the crank angle sensor to confirm it is making an connection.

 

Awesome, thanks! I guess there is hope!

I'm defintely going to try all of this tomorrow. I have a friend with all of these tools who is going to help out. Two sets of hands is always better.

 

My cara running Lean on boost and rich while driving normally, I could also smell fuel while driving sometimes and other times when I stop

I'll keep you posted on what I did to fix it

 

I ran a compression test today and got zero compression on both rotors.

I'm going to have to save up a little money to do the rebuild. I really don't have the proper tools to do the job myself. I guess the question now is how did I blow both rotors?

 

Bump becuse I could really use some advice on what I should do next. I'm assuming these numbers are proving that my engine is toast, right?

When I ran the test, I did the poor man's compression test as well and I could feel air on all three faces (not really that much pressure), but I guess anything near 100 PSI would feel like a substantial amount of force.

 

You did only remove 2 sparkplugs right??? because if you have removed all 4 then you will have next to nothing in the compression test. As i found out when i tested mine once.

 

I tested each rotor with just one plug removed from the housing.

 

One more bump before I let the thread die even though I think there's nothing left to say. If not, I'll probably update everyone once the engine gets pulled out to see what really happened.

 

In all honesty it sounds like a vacuum leak. Everybody knows how Rotaries are vacuum lines nightmares. Start with the intercooler piping and work your way up.

 

sorry to hear the worst happen to you..

 

A vacuum leak causing no compression? Maybe that's my lack of rotary knowledge but that seems wrong since I had decent vacuum before I drove the car at the time that it died.

I read a thread discussing no compression being caused by no oil in the engine since oil helps hold compression. I haven't tried putting ATF or motor oil through the spark plug holes, but I think I'm going to try that as my last attempt before turning her in for an engine removal.

 

so what ever happened???