I am buying a '93 TT FD. It has a 3" DP, 3" MP, 3" exhaust. Upgraded IC piping, Apex AVC-R B/C, Fluidyne radiator, aluminum FW, and ACT clutch. He tells me the motor is streetported, how can I tell? It idles like a V8 with a cam in it (idle jumps from 750-100 rpms). Is that a tell tale sign or does a stock rotary idle the same way. I am going to go single later (in around 4 months, probably 60-1 or bigger), are there any other supporting mods I would need (other than a larger IC, which one would be best?). I am very knowledgeable about DSM's but rotaries are still pretty new to me. I have a friend that knows a lot about building the motors but lacks knowledge in the Fuel injection and turbo arts. Is a ecu needed for the mods that are already on the car? Please dont flame me I am still learning (see sig. )

Thanks, Anton

 

Get a fully programable computer like the Haltec or Power FC before you go single. Actually with the mods it has the sooner the better.

 

That is what I thought, I read a thread that said just removing the cat you would need one. Is this true? For the time being though is it safe to race it?

Thanks, Anton

 

Porting on a rotary is more or less like installling a hotter cam(s) in a piston engine. I don't believe it should be fluxuating in rpm that much though...just doesn't sound quite right. Have you driven the car or ridden in it??? How does it drive? Any smoke coming out of the exhaust and if so what color? There are a lot of things you need to take note of before sinking your money into it.
Honestly with the mods it has right now it would be safe to say that it needs fuel management and upgades asap. I would be a bit wary of buying it to be honest as a car with that open of an exhaust and intake plus the porting and no fuel upgrades is a disaster waiting to happen. Unless he cuts you a BIG deal I would probably shy away from it in all honesty. As it is you would need at least a bigger fuel pump, some sort of programmable management like an A'PEXi Power FC, Haltech, Wolf 3D, AEM EMS, or something like that, and maybe even a rising rate fuel pressure regulator and bigger secondary injectors. A better I/C definately should wait until after the fuel needs are met. Going single turbo is another story entirely so definately put that off until you make sure the car is in okay shape to start with or you'll end up regretting it in the end.

 

If the motor checks out it should be ok to drive. Although without the computer and fuel system I would keep the boost at 12 PSI or lower. 12 PSI will yield about a 85-90% injector duty depending on how big the port is. This is running very close to the limit so you would be safer running at stock 10 PSI until a new engine management and fuel system is in.

And keep an eye out for boost spikes as well since you have the mid pipe in the car. Many people experience problems if the wastegate is not ported.

 

Thanks, Guys. I am getting the car for 10k with only 95k on the clock and the car is in really good condition.

 

u definately should not wait on getting a programmed ecu! You are going to be running kinda lean and if you hit high psi (over 10) u are crazy! U will end up leaning out and *pop*, there goes your motor!