Maybe you have something looped together something on the y-pipe that you shouldn't ? I'm sure you had to remove your Y-pipe when reinstalling new turbos could it be that you plugged something wrong at the y-pipe ?

If you are running stock IC, then having 5psi pressure drop is quite normal I'd say. But then again, you may have a boost/vacuum leak somewhere.

 

Okay.. So basically you moved it to the y-pipe as recommended and saw 15 psi.

What this means:

Good news, your turbos produce 15 psi without issue!

Now if it produced 15 psi of pressure at a much faster rate then you see boost climb when connected to the UIM, then it's a safe assumption you have a boost leak somewhere between the Y-pipe and the UIM.

The reason it is so slow to build to 10 psi is because it takes you that long to exceed the flow capacity of the boost leak. Exceeding that flow capacity means the leak cannot flow the volume you're producing and it creates pressure as a result (which you eventually see as 10 psi).

You don't have to worry about not having a vacuum gauge connected to the UIM while doing this - if anything you're seeing real turbo pressure with less blindfolds (IC pressure drop, piping, etc.).

Start checking every single coupler past the y-pipe, check the blow off valve, the charge relief valve (if you're using it in parallel with the BOV since you're non-seq), the intercooler piping, etc.

IMO, you should not be seeing a 5 psi drop across all of the piping with a Greddy FMIC - nor should you be seeing that kind of boost pattern of taking until 6000 rpm to create 10 psi.

 

Either a boost leak, and/or, even more likely, a flow restriction between the y-pipe and the UIM.

 

It felt like the boost gauge was moving faster with it hooked up at the Y-pipe and it definately was creating more boost at each given rpm range. I have checked all my couplers I don't know how many times and everything seems fine, no cracks, solid connections, etc...

I have loose rubber plugs over my intake hard pipes and off of my air pump hard pipes.....my BOV and CRV are still using the same rubber lines that they were using before hand....and I checked all my vacuum lines on the Y-pipe to make sure that I had everything hooked up as I should, I even converted my friends car to non-sequential the same day and his boost pattern builds fast and strong. I will go over all my lines again and find this little bastard though. Could my BOV be leaking?

I wonder if I have popcorn or packing material in my Intercooler core? That would blow my mind...but it was packaged in all that crap, I thought I dumped it all out, but I can't really reach in and clean it out.

I am going to do a full vacuum line job this week as well....plus a new TB gasket and UIM gasket while I have those off for polishing. Hopefully when it is all said and done, it will be working again. I still don't understand the smoke issue...and why it wasn't doing it the day before and then started doing it yesterday.

 

Use a Shop Vac.

 

Doubt it's any of that. It would be blown out in the first use.

 

Maybe, but that depends on how big the pieces (of packing material) were and what material it was. The passages in an intercooler are not very large.

 

We're talking serious pressure and flow here. Someone would have had to crammed them in there with metal rods to make them resist that.

 

scott, buy garys resonater pipe

 

I am picking up Gary's pipe on Friday.

Also, I have started my vacuum job....and I found 2 loose hoses so far. One was a cracked silicone hose that was right off of the Y-pipe....off of some actuator looking thing on top of the y-pipe. The other line was off of some piece under the UIM...ACV I believe. It had a nipple facing up and it is connected to the LIM above the fuel rails. That line was also off.

 

15 PSI on a stock computer......you see that smoke give it a couple of days let it keep smoking like that and chances are you'll be coming back on this forum and lettig us know that you need to now purchase a rebuilt engine.
Now you know its a boost leak just be careful and dont exceed the 10psi limit especially on your stock ecu....

 

The 15psi was at the Y pipe not the engine, the boost was leaking before it got to the engine so shouldn't have any effect. Now in some cases it could have over spooled the turbos out of thier efficiency range and super heated the air which could cause detonation, but the turbos were only making 15psi which is within thier efficiency range so I doubt it heated the air to much.

I had something similar happen to me with a stock bov leaking while I was running around 18psi of boost so to keep that pressure the turbos were prob putting out 23psi or maybe more, they superheated the air and I said bye bye engine.

STEPHEN

 

I used to have an eclipse that ran 15psi. No matter what I did I just wasnt getting the power I should. Had a wide band a/f meter and all. looked perfect. did a little tinkering with the fuel dispite the a/f meters reading and found the sweet spot. You might be just running a little lean or to rich. afterall with the fmic the charge will be cooler at the same psi which means more air. more air means more fuel. Hope this helps...

 

I doubt it is AFR....because as you said, colder air is denser air....denser air with the same amount of fuel would be leaner conditions and would pull harder...not worse. Unless of course it is so lean that it runs like ****, but it doesn't run like ****....just boosts slow.

I am almost posotive it is a boost leak....just got to put it all back together and find out. And yeah...15-20psi or whatever it is boosting at the y-pipe....the motor is still only seeing about 10-11psi so I should be fine as far as the ECU and fuel and detonation and all that are concerned. I also doubt that the BNR's can't take 15psi or so...they shouldn't have a problem with that.

I just broke a solenoid though doing my vacuum lines....so **** me. Now I have to wait for a new one to show up. Even though I am non-sequential....I would probably need that one. That is my luck.

 

Which solenoid? You may not need it at all.

I use the following solenoids with my non-seq setup:

1. Wastegate control.
2. ISC.

That's it.

You do not need:

1. PRC (pressure regulator control), hot starts only, don't need it.
2. Anything ACV related (SAV, SWITCHING, RELIEF1, RELIEF2, PAB, etc.).
3. AWS (automatic warm-up), get rid of it.
4. TCNT1 (turbo control 1), also in ACV: dump it.
5. TCNT2 (turbo control 2), dump it.
6. TPCNT (turbo pre-control), connected right next to the WG solenoid (green ones). If you break one, you can swap the electrical connectors and use the other one for the same purpose; they are the SAME. Otherwise, don't use TPC in a non-seq setup.
7. CCNT (charge control), dump it.
8. CRF (charge relief), dump it.
9. EGR, dump.
10. DTCNT (double throttle), dump.
11. PURGE aka PCSV (purge control solenoid valve), used to vent vapour from the gas tank into the UIM. You can safely dump this and have the charcoal canister under the fuel tank vent to atmosphere. There is no need for it, nor is it dangerous.

Now I'm not saying go out and remove all of these tomorrow (you cannot without block off plates). However, I'm listing which ones actually matter when full non-seq with no airpump and using a PFC.

When you get a PFC, also GET BLOCK OFF PLATES so you can remove all of that nonsense.

 

if you are seeing that kind of boost drop then ya you probly looking at a good sized leak

 

Scott-

Sounds silly, but check your BOV. Make sure it is hooked up correctly. Not quite familiar with your BOV, so it may be a shot in the dark. Once apon a time I had a vacuum line incorrectly attached to the BOV and it did very simular things. Building boost was very sluggish until high RPM's. It was one of those late night thingy's; and I was at my wits end. A quick call to Steve Kan on his cell (which woke him up) solved it. He said to check that first. Go figure.

 

That is hilarious....amazing how above and beyond most people a good tuner can be.

My BOV line simply T-d into the the CRV and then ran to the UIM....I doubt it could be wrong.

But....of those two lines that I found bad....one cracked, and one popped off....the popped off one was going to my TCS.....it was on the nipple...sort of....but barely....you could see the different color of the brass where it had blown off and kind of rested back in place loosely. The cracked line was going to my wastegate control solenoid of all places....so of all my vacuum lines in the rat's nest.....I had two bad lines both going to two of the only pieces I still use. Lucky me.

 

If must be a relief to know it now might be the vacuum lines rather than the turbo. Mmm..I thought you redid the vacuum lines , how could the silicone hose have cracked so soon ?

 

BTW: I'll presume TCS is the "turbo control solenoid." In non-seq this isn't used. The TC actuator is wired open the entire time.