New REAR bearing/hub assembly
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Joined: Jul 2009
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From: CA
New REAR bearing/hub assembly
Do anyone know where i can get this besides oem? How much is it per side ? Do they sell as a unit like fronts?
or bearing and hub separately?
has anyone tried amazon brand Drivestar rear hub assembly? It seems like its the same unit as millennia. And its only 35$ perside as a complete unit. Super steal if you ask me
or bearing and hub separately?
has anyone tried amazon brand Drivestar rear hub assembly? It seems like its the same unit as millennia. And its only 35$ perside as a complete unit. Super steal if you ask me
rockauto.com for the rear bearing if you want for example Timken or Centric brands...or J-Auto if you want Koyo bearings
J-auto has a good price on the koyo bearings for $50 per side
Unless you don't have the rear hubs or if the ones you have are damaged I really see no reason why to replace them, just put in new bearings and they're good to go
So the Millenia is front wheel drive so there is no way they are the same...unless the FD front hubs are the same as the Millennia rear hubs...
which doesn't solve your issue as you need FD rear bearings and hubs
J-auto has a good price on the koyo bearings for $50 per side
Unless you don't have the rear hubs or if the ones you have are damaged I really see no reason why to replace them, just put in new bearings and they're good to go
So the Millenia is front wheel drive so there is no way they are the same...unless the FD front hubs are the same as the Millennia rear hubs...
which doesn't solve your issue as you need FD rear bearings and hubs
Last edited by Spalato; Dec 2, 2017 at 07:48 AM.
Never heard of that Amazon brand and personally wouldn't screw with it. I've bought TIMKEN replacements before on an old truck and had no complaints. But personally I recommend not going cheap and just get OEM...which is KOYO IIRC. If you don't have a press, a decent shop shouldn't charge too much. While you're at it for a few bucks more consider replacing the wheel studs at the same time. These cars is old and the studs will stretch and develop cracks. If one breaks later you'll just have to destroy that new bearing to replace them on the rear which is a split race. I don't know anyone selling the rears as a unit.
If you need a good how-to and haven't seen this already---> https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...-401595/page3/
If you need a good how-to and haven't seen this already---> https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...-401595/page3/
Last edited by Sgtblue; Dec 2, 2017 at 09:07 AM.
I would agree that the KOYO bearings are the go to brand and the OR supplier. Added bonus, they are still made in Japan. The part number is shared with a few Mazda, and I got them on EBay from a parts wholesaler for under $50 each.
Vince
Vince
If you're dead set on replacing the rear bearings, i recommend popping the axles (which is real easy) and taking the entire assembly to a machine shop. To get them off, you need to break the outer race by either using a heavy duty puller or using a large press that can accommodate the axle shaft. Then you need to get the inner race off the hub by either torch or cutting.
Here's my experience BTW
https://www.rx7club.com/build-thread.../#post12019427
Tried to get the hubs off another roller i had and ended up breaking two heavy duty bearing pullers.
Here's my experience BTW
https://www.rx7club.com/build-thread.../#post12019427
Tried to get the hubs off another roller i had and ended up breaking two heavy duty bearing pullers.
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Just tried my hand replacing mine earlier today because of a few broken studs. Had one hell of a time getting my axle shafts out of the hub assembly. Also tried to press out the bearings but ran into more problems... Wasnt my favorite FD experience thats for sure.
And I also ordered TIMKEN bearings from RA. 👍
Goodluck
And I also ordered TIMKEN bearings from RA. 👍
Goodluck
I've taken several of them out over the years, not just in the FD. And used to dread trying to get the splined end of half-axle out of the hub. I'd wail on them with a two-pound brass hammer, then hit the brass hammer with a sledge, heat, and repeat...they were always a bitch. If you have an air compressor, check out the last post in that thread I linked to earlier. Using the air chisel with a slightly blunted point end in that dimple at the end of the splined shaft made it a piece of cake. The half-shaft was easy to R & R out of the diff, and if it's level you won't even lose any gear oil. And I reassembled with after a little wire brushing and a coating of anti-seize over the splines in the event I ever have to take them out again.
Last edited by Sgtblue; Dec 3, 2017 at 08:06 AM.
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