New motor and turbos
#1
Gabe
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New motor and turbos
So I had my 13b and turbos rebuilt and I got about 200 miles on them. From what I read, it says to wait 500 miles until gunning it. I also read that it needs to be redlined to get rid of carbon build up. So when should I give it its first red line? Right at 500 miles? Anything I should do after the first 500 miles?
#6
I Raise Chickens
+1 to this. For example, if the motor has new rotor bearings, general guidelines recommend a longer break in period than 500 miles. Check post #61 in my build thread. https://www.rx7club.com/build-thread...1082045/page3/
#7
Original Gangster/Rotary!
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Generally speaking, this is conservative but a good guideline..... all new IRP engines (with new bearings and other internals) follow this:
first 500 miles, revs below 4000 rpm and minimal boost
change oil and filter
next 1000 miles (1500 total), revs below 6000 rpm and some boost, like 1/2 a bar (7ish psi)
change oil and filter
tune
We recommend Rotella 15w40 (has ZDDP) for breakin and Idemitsu synthetic afterwards.
first 500 miles, revs below 4000 rpm and minimal boost
change oil and filter
next 1000 miles (1500 total), revs below 6000 rpm and some boost, like 1/2 a bar (7ish psi)
change oil and filter
tune
We recommend Rotella 15w40 (has ZDDP) for breakin and Idemitsu synthetic afterwards.
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#9
Form > Function
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Housings run about $700 each = $1400
OEM Rebuild kit = $1300
OEM Gasket kit = $600
That right there is $3300 and doesn't include turbos, rotors, bearings, oil pump, oil control ring set.. oh, and labor.
Most likely, the original motor was "refreshed" and the housings/rotors were reconditioned.
If you got this from a buddy, just clarify with him what was done and/or ask for the builders phone number. I'm sure the builder will give you the break-in procedures.
Last edited by MattGold; 08-04-15 at 04:31 PM.
#10
Gabe
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Found the number to the place that rebuilt it, they said everything in it was replaced and it was a very high quality build. He also said go easy the first 500 and after that I should be good. Any opinion on that?
#11
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Pretty sure you already got two fairly detailed responses in this thread about what their recommendations are, based on a lot of experience.
So, either do what the builder said, or follow the recommendations already given in this thread.
So, either do what the builder said, or follow the recommendations already given in this thread.
#13
Tony Stewart Killer.
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What did the mechanic mean by everything replaced. Like said, if they charged 3300, labor alone to rebuild, remove and replace would be a big chunk, and so would the seals and gaskets. That leaves no money for turbos to be rebuilt or replaced and definitely nothing for rotors or housings to be replaced with new.
Taking it easy for 500 miles without boost or low boost sounds smart. Then oil change and gradually work up to boost for another 500-1k miles.
You can leave the intercooler coupler loose for 500 miles to make sure you don't boost or get the urge to.
Taking it easy for 500 miles without boost or low boost sounds smart. Then oil change and gradually work up to boost for another 500-1k miles.
You can leave the intercooler coupler loose for 500 miles to make sure you don't boost or get the urge to.
#15
Form > Function
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There's zero chance everything was replaced with new for $3300. It's just not possible... nor is it always necessary.
Most likely, the housings and rotors were reconditioned. New seals, new gaskets, new bearings... not sure on the turbos. Maybe they were "fine" as I don't think most shops can nor would even waste the time rebuilding them.
Check the Banzai site, they do a good job of breaking down the different levels of engine rebuild:
Engine Rebuild
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