xxicharusxx

iTrader: (1)

hey guys, i just got an FD shell and ive got the engine on the way, however i need some help getting the inital setup going as the car has no exhaust/intake etc, im new to rotarys and other then theory have no real experience.
on to the questions:

Ive been doing alot of research and my first question is im not sure what to do for exhaust, i was planning on getting a ceramic coated DP but im not sure what to do for the rest of the system, i dont want to have a problem with boost creep or messing up the pre-boost timing.

Second im not sure what to do with the intake, the car currently has nothing except for the intake manifolds on the engine itself, i looked into doin the cheap basterd intake but doesnt that require the stock airbox?

Third, boost controller. Will an aftermarket boost controller accurately keep the boost levels at the stock 10-8-10 with the stock turbos/ecu? i was reading somewhere that aftermarket boost controllers can mess with the pre-boost timing. If they do work whats the best way to do it on the stock system? Should i get a mechanical dial style bc or an electronic one like the apexi AVC-r?

Ive been reading alot of information on reliability mods and so far ive gotten a koyo radiator, boost gauge, wideband AFR gauge, water temp gauge, EGT gauge. Increasing the reliability here is my main goal for my initial setup.

I also dont know what to do with the intercooler, I have the stock IC but ive been reading that it sucks, along with most of the stock cooling equipment lol, I was wondering if i should get an aftermarket FMIC? but along with that ive been reading that using an aftermarket can also cause boost creep and mess with the pre-boost timing.

Thanks in advance guys, and if im miss-informed on anything please dont hesitate to let me know, im new to this and just wanna learn

Force13B

iTrader: (19)

Are you going to keep your air/smog pump? If so just go with a stock cat they have a great flow rate and i'm sure you can find 1 cheap in the FS section. If you are not keeping the air/smog pump a resonated midpipe or highflow cat would work to keep the boost creep under control. Others have had great luck with porting the wastegate on the turbos and just running a midpipe.

You would need a stock airbox for the cheap bastered intake again you can find 1 cheap in the FS section. I have 1 if you'd like it shoot me a PM

Yes you can set up a boost controller to run 10-8-10 with stock turbos or 10 accross the board. I had my AVC-R's setup to run 10-8-10 took some work but it can be done. Read more hear http://www.fd3s.net/avc-r_install.html

A better radiator will help with reliability, Koyo, fluidline there are a lot out there. A boost gauge should be a no brainer for any turbo car. The more information you can keep an eye on the better IMHO but making your dashboard look like a fighter cockpit kind of sucks.

Changing out the stock IC is up to you some have said they get more lag with a bigger IC, since it takes long for air flow to reach the motor with a bigger IC or longer piping. I didn't notice any difference from my stock IC to my blitz FMIC. Boost creep only comes from exhaust flow, some have seen a lost in boost pressure from installing larger IC.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

If I were to start over with a new FD, here's what I do:

Exhaust:
Ceramic coated DP
Bonez hi-flo cat
St. May's Shotgun cat-back exhaust (I have this now, but it's hard to come by). Racing Beat dual is a good alternative.

Intake:
M2/SR based Cold Air Intake

Intercooler:
ASP/M2 Medium SMIC

Radiator:
Fluidyne or PWR

Boost Control:
Greddy Profec

ECU:
Pettit (I still like this as a no-fuss option)


Then spend the rest of the money making the rest of the car solid (i.e. brakes, suspension interior, wheels, etc).

xxicharusxx

iTrader: (1)

thanks for the good info guys

Force13b check your PMs

hopefully she'll be up and running in a couple weeks or so.

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

*With the stock or hi-flow cat, typically you won't have creep issues. But open up the intake with an aftermarket IC of any kind and you'll likely have to deal with Spike issues....especially when it gets cool. Many here use Manual controllers...but they take some to get set properly. Profec B II is probably the most common EBC.
*If your going with the stock or re-programmed ECU like Pettit's, you can probably save your money for the wideband.
*I second the recommendation for a SMIC if your car will be primarily street driven. Alot less hassle for installation, less worry over debris and usually less cooling issues for the motor. I like my PFS SMIC btw.
*If your going for reliability, don't stop with the radiator. Make sure you have a metal AST, check all the coolant hoses, including the turbo coolant lines. Flush the system and keep as high of a water to coolant ratio as you pratically can. Consider replacing the stock thermoswitch with an Series 5 (89-91) FC thermoswitch mod...it lowers the temp threshold for the fans from 108 C. to 95 C. and is a plug & play mod.
* As Mahjik suggested, spend the money on getting the car on a solid footing from there. In addition to the things he mentioned, I'd include ALL fluids...transmission, Differential and brake. Plugs too. Then search and read as you go.

grimple1

iTrader: (1)

i'll just put this out there.

if you want to make it more reliable then single turbo setup is, in my honest opinion, the best upgrade you can do. less points of failure.

xxicharusxx

iTrader: (1)

haha yea, thats my eventual goal, but no job isnt very supportive of that :-p

xxicharusxx

iTrader: (1)

ok i started checking some **** on the engine and ive got a couple of questions:


This is where the second stock BOV goes correct?


Where do these two hoses go? Looking at the vacuum diagrams it looks like one goes to the missing BOV but i cant tell where the other goes.

lastly:

these are the wastegate actuators no? and are they supposed to be connected together like that or are the two blocked off lines supposed to be attached to the actuators?

Thanks in advance guys,
-Jason

caredden

iTrader: (148)

Mahjik provided a lot of good gouge on a set up. I have run a lot of what Mahjik mentioned (now running single turbo). In regards to the St May, they are a little more easier to come by (I am running a RB dual tip)...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/St-Ma...Q5fAccessories

Sounds like you are off to a good start with all of your research. Good luck.

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

Actually the one pictured is the Charge releif (CRV) and the one NOT shown would be the blow-off valve. But yes, that is the hose it would use.
One will go to your blow-off valve. The other is good for a boost guage.
In stock configuration, the blocked off lines should go to the individual actuators and that line running between them is not there. I'm not familiar with a non-sequential set-up....maybe that's how that is done. ?

xxicharusxx

iTrader: (1)

word, alright cool thanks for the input.

the valve pictured that you said was the CRV says ABV on it, does that mean its in the wrong spot or am i just being an idiot.

and yea, i too was wondering about the non-sequential conversion but the engine still has all the pieces of the stock vacuum system with all the vacuum tanks etc and i was under the impression that some of that gets removed with the non-seq mod?

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

ABV is the "air by-pass valve, or what we usually call the blow-off valve. Looks like the previous owner switched them. They function very close to one another, but I'd try to pick one up a CRV in the "Parts for Sale" section. They're generally available and shouldn't cost much.
----> https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...&highlight=crv

xxicharusxx

iTrader: (1)

alright ive almost got her up and running, but ive got a minor problem....

ive got a koyo rad with stock fans and when i try and put the stock IC in the bottom of the IC hits the fans. Does anyone know how to get around this? or does anyone have some pics of the stock IC with the airducts not in the way?

thanks in advance

djseven

iTrader: (56)

That is just dealing with the Koyo radiator, the fluidyne does not cause this issue. You will have to get creative and lower the top mounting points on the radiator.

As for wanting a truly reliable fd, buy new injectors, delete ast, buy new wiring harness, replace all coolant and vacuum hoses along with all new clamps on all hoses/piping and enjoy the car. Of course this is assuming the engine you bought is decent to start with.

xxicharusxx

iTrader: (1)

^^thanks that worked.

SO thanks to everyone i finally got everything all set up and connected, however now ive got some more problems.

I went to start the car and she turns over no problem but wont start, upon further inspection i dont think shes getting fuel or spark. I pulled the plug and checked for spark, nothing, no spark. And im not really sure at all how to diagnose the system because of the electronic distribution and what not, ive only ever worked on cars with dizzys and the FSM was incredibly not useful in troubleshooting.

Also i looped the f/p gnd plugs in the diagnostic plugs to check the fuel pump and it sounds good and there sounds like fuel is running through the lines, I didnt have a fuel pressure tester so im not sure if the problem is its just not pressurizing or what.

Also when looping those plugs to see if the fuel pump is working shouldnt it shut off after a few seconds once pressure is built up? cause it didnt shut off it kept going for as long as i had the key in the on position.

regardless of fuel pressure i also dont think the injectors are firing. i listened to see if they were clicking when turning the car over and i couldnt hear anything. My friend and i were thinking this might be because the ecu isnt grounded properly?

Also another quick question, i have a jdm engine, harness, and ecu and when i went to plug it all up everything plugged up correctly except for the blue plug that that looks like it come off the engine harness and plugs up to the interior harness, on the jdm harness it has an extra row of plugs off the side that the usdm does not have. The wiring diagrams i have are usdm so they werent much help, does anyone know what those two extra wires are for and what to do with them? I managed to get the plugs connected by just clipping off one side of the female connector (probably a dumb idea, but i was pissed at the time) but theres still the problem of the two open wires.

Thanks in advance for any help guys.