yourmom23

iTrader: (4)

Well i swear this is my last stupid thread for a while... Well now as soon as a hit a little bit of boost not takin it over 4k since it is a new engine, my clutch slips. This is a brand new exedy clutch just the replacement, I had the flywheel turned down also. It seems to engage at the very end like it is a bad clutch? I dont see how i could have installed it wrong, my clutch fork is fine master cyl is fine, and the slave is good two. Is it possible the slave is to far engaged and is holding the clutch loose?

catch-22

iTrader: (2)

have you broke the clutch in properly?

yourmom23

iTrader: (4)

Clutch break in? never herd of it ill try to search it

badddrx7

iTrader: (7)

There is a clutch break in period for all clutches. You can't install one, drop the lift and roll down the street doing burnouts and dumps. Also are you sure there is no oil on the plate or clutch face ?


Later

yourmom23

iTrader: (4)

[QUOTE=badddrx7;9381998]There is a clutch break in period for all clutches. You can't install one, drop the lift and roll down the street doing burnouts and dumps. Also are you sure there is no oil on the plate or clutch face ?

Well in no way have i been hard on it at all, it is a brand new rebuild, It is possible that grease could have got on it. It just feels like it is way at the end of the adjustablilty, it engages at the very end. Is there an adjust ment i can do on this?

David0ff

iTrader: (6)

you can play with the pedal travel ( under the driver`s steering )
bleed your clutch lines first .
then adjust the pedal travel from within the cabin see if you can get it the way you want it ( the way i have it also ) .. engaging right off the floor

yourmom23

iTrader: (4)

I will bleed the lines again but im pretty sure they are good. Im now starting to think maybe the slave ram didnt get into the dimple in the clutch fork and is on the edge of it causing it to be partially disengaged. I will check it out tomorrow

Dudemaaanownsanrx7

iTrader: (23)

It's probably the pedal needs adjusted. I had to adjust mine after changing it out

kustomizingkid

iTrader: (2)

I still don't believe in clutch break in...

yourmom23

iTrader: (4)

after changing out your clutch? Was it having the same symptoms as i have?

arghx

iTrader: (3)

if you're breaking in an engine you're breaking in the clutch with that same driving pattern

1QWIK7

iTrader: (33)

Why not??

You have you break in your engine.

You have to break in your brakes.

It makes sense you break in your clutch as well.

yourmom23

iTrader: (4)

Well i think i had my slave cylinder bled to good cuz it was holding the clutch partially out. Then i went to bleed it agian and i got a damn air bubble and had to suck more fluid down, what a pain in the ***...

Let the clutch break in debate commence

Dudemaaanownsanrx7

iTrader: (23)

I only had the far engagement, i fixed it by adjusting the pedal within 5 mins of having it installed cause i knew i wouldn't like it that way. I never had actually drove it that way to experience any slipping.. There is no such thing as too bled. You either have air in it or not. I break in my clutches lightly, but some people dump it as soon as it's installed. I highly doubt not breaking them in would cause slipping. It's more likely it was installed improperly, has oil on it, or it's adjusted in such a way that it never fully disengages. It must be slipping pretty bad, to have issues while breaking the engine in. Or your breaking the engine in differently then most and running boost through it and pushing it harder then i prefer on a new engine

MOBEONER

iTrader: (18)

did you make sure the bolts on the pressure plate where all the way in and the pressure plate is flushed the the flywheel?

if you adjusted the pedal and you have no leaks in clutch system then there is something wrong with the way your clutch was mounted.

yourmom23

iTrader: (4)

Well when i took out the engine i just unbolted the slave calender, and for some reason it was holding the clutch out to far, so it was partially dissingaged. so i just bled it again and it stopped slipping.

kustomizingkid

iTrader: (2)

Every single clutch I've ever put in I've hammered on from mile one and I rarely to never resurface the flywheel... worked for me so far...

I've never had one fail on me... ever...

1QWIK7

iTrader: (33)

Awesome.

A clutch should always be properly broken in anyway.

Six Rotors

iTrader: (17)

Perhaps you could enlighten me as to the proper way to break in a clutch.Is it anything like bedding new brakes in?

1QWIK7

iTrader: (33)

Of course it depends on the type of clutch but here are lots of stuff you can read.

http://www.google.com/#hl=en&q=how+t...fp=VEE02fthf5k

I dont make the rules, i simply follow them.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Here's what ACT recommends for their clutches:

Question: Do ACT clutches require a break in period?

Answer: For organic street discs "00 and SS" we recommend breaking in the clutch for 200-300 miles with mild engagement such as stop and go city driving prior to racing or spirited driving. ACT race discs usually only require a few hard slips to lap in the surfaces prior to normal driving or racing. Do not overheat the clutch during the break in period.

kustomizingkid

iTrader: (2)

I follow the ACT race disk break in method

MR_Rick

iTrader: (7)

I had a one organic clutch failed on me for not following brake-in procedures. Now non-organic clutches, I never broke them in.