I just got done putting everything back together however I followed the new start up procedures provided by rotary resurection and its not even close to firing up. Fuel pressure is good and I am getting fuel but there is no spark. Just put in new plugs and its not any better. Could it be the coils? I also had to re wire my stock map sensor, if I wired it wrong will that cause start up issues?

 

Coils yes, map sensor, I doubt it.

 

I was doing some research and someone was having similar problems. All he did was loosen the belt tension and it started right up. I know mine are pretty tight. does anyone know the proper deflection measurement on the shorter belts? I am running a single turbo with no a/c.

 

Have you checked if your getting spark?

thewird

 

^ is there a proper way to do that?

 

The belt tension should in no way affect starting the car. I think www.rotaryresurrection.com has instructions to check for spark. Are you sure you are getting fuel, having fuel pressure and teh pump running does not mean you are getting fuel, you need to go to the local parts store and rent a set of Node Lights that plug into the primary injector connectors and verify they are getting a signal, also, is the tach bouncing slightly when cranking?

 

ok, I have confirmed that I have fuel and spark. But djseven, I do not have any bounce in the tach when I am cranking the car. Also I looked at the commader and I noticed that the PIM and the Fuel categories are both highlighted and at 4.86 and 4.98 respectively. If I remember right the fuel should be highlighted but the PIM should not be. Input please.

 

ok, I just did some homework. My sensor is reading full boost and so the car is flooding out. So I will fix that tomorrow to see if that was the problem.

 

Ok I fixed my PIM problem. however, car still wont start. When I checked to see if I had a spark, I noticed that the spark was more of a yellowish color. I thought sparks where normally blue. Does anyone have any input? Will this affect my car from starting?

 

is the tps set ?

 

It can BE a very good possibility for your motor not starting up. The fuel is probably soaking your spark plug because of the weak spark its emitting.

And YES the spark should be BLUE.

What im concluding so far is that the spark is WAY too weak to ignite the fuel on initial startup, which would cause the plugs to get soaked with fuel.

Is it the Stock FD EC-Triple Coils?? ( judging by your name im guessing its an FD....) are you using any other After market ignitions?

because it definitley sounds like bad coils not giving enough power to the spark...
keep us informed!

 

Yes I have the stock coils and an HKS twin power, But that is it as far as after market ignition.

 

Before doing anything, get some insight from your Tech, if you havent done so. But as of now, try disconnecting the HKS igniter and just solo the stock coils and check spark again, and see what color it is.

 

I having the same problem as fdfreak. I got fuel and spark but the car dont start. I have a inline spark plug checker it showing me the spark plug is firing but the spark seem to be on the weak side because the spark are more of an orange color then blue.

 

i also have a new rebuild that wont start and i think i have the same problem as you guys i have fuel + spark but the spark is more orange then blue ??

 

..... wow...... check out the coils! that is the main source of power.

 

damn same thing i had with my touring thats for sale!!!!! its like war of the worlds out here....help.......help....save me tom cruse!

 

weak battery/ spark and initial low compression due to lack of bed in is the culprit
time and time again, old / locked/ freshly assembled motors HATE going off the key
thats because the starter is robbing the majority of the current from the battery

if its not auto, tow the bloody thing 30 meters and let the clutch out
- ******* magic that works everytime

if it is an auto, try bringing over another battery , and even bridge it to the coils directly if needed

 

I recheck my spark yesterday and was only getting spark to both trailing plug and not the leadings. So i did some research and found out the coil harness was bad, now all plug is firing but still didnt started it yet because i needing some new spark plug. I 'll try to start it tomorrow and see what happen.

 

Scorpio Antares, I will check that when I get home. I swaped out my coil packs yesterday and check the spark again and it was still pretty weak. I put in a coil pack that has less than 50,000 mi. and my other coilpack worked fine until I lost compression in the front rotor, but I swapped them just in case.

I must have the twin power hooked up wrong. cause everth thing else is there. I havent officially done a compression check but compression sounds good when I have the plugs out and deflooding. I really think it just comes down to the spark. I have exhausted every other source.

 

Ok after hours of waisting not only my time but all those who helped me, I found that I had very low compression in my front rotor. the gauge read 35 and it read 95 on the rear rotor. Not Sure why. I just rebuilt the motor 2 months ago. Any Idea why compression is so low?

 

Poor build? Is this your first rebuild? Although it's not rocket science, it is very important that ALL of your seals and clearences are within spec. Does the motor even try to start when you turn it over? when you pull your plugs are they wet or dry?

 

they are wet. but it doesnt even try to start, I have yet to try pulling it and popping the clutch. I followed that video made by Bruce Torentine to the T. I checked and double checked everything. the only thing that I can think of is that the side seals are sticking. I filed them down but they did stick a little bit in that front rotor.

 

Have you tried theunflooding procedures? If not the easiest way is to hold the gas pedal tothe floor while you crank the car. give it a try

 

What were your apex seal and side seal clearances?