So i've had my custom built CPR engine (thanks Howard) covered and on a stand for a year. Never followed through with my replacement A-Spec TIAL turbo kit. Bought a CBR 1k and A Z roadster get ease the pain and now it's rebuild or drop a jdm engine and part the goodies.

I have the jdm eurothane engine mounts but need to replace them with Attain solid swivel mounts then attach the clutch. I had a printed copy if the manual but can't find it. I had a .pdf copy and can't find that either.

Can someone please post a page or two on mating the clutch, clutch fork, etc so I can at least drop the block in? thanks

 

Never mind, got the clutch on. Boy, don't every one speak at once. Looks like the bolts had loctite on them previously but not sure if it's needed.

 

I'll chime in.
Are you rebuilding the engine or trying to get the clutch to fit? Does the engine have a turbo on it?

What's A Z roadster get ease the pain?

 

The answers you need are there if you search. Not to be an *** but most ignore the simple questions. Once you get the engine dropped in and start trouble shooting several will be glad to help

 

I've been around just as long as you have. Should I search to point out how many replies there of people pointing out there is a search function?

 

Thanks for the reply but I kinda mentioned all that... New rebuild by CPR sitting for a year. Clutch has to be installed properly as it is a lot of work mating the block to the trans, especially by yourself. Otherwise you have to take it apart and do it over again.

I only had so many hours of sun light left and couldn't find my manuals. I used to know a few people on here that would have posted the page I needed but I guess every one is gone except a couple track guys with there own shops.

350Z Roadster which is close to the Turbo 911 that I wanted to buy and would have cost me less the my RX7.

 

you are better off just asking the question. reading the title, then the dusty story then the question, i would at that point rather just send you to the FSM. most others will do the same thing because of those 2 additional simple things. cliffnotes: align the clutch disc and flywheel with the alignment tool supplied. pop in the pull lock retainer into the pressure plate. line up the transmission and mount it to the block. pull on the clutch fork arm until it bottoms out then release it. if it pops out remove trans rinse and repeat.

 

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...l-links-68640/

scroll down to majikc's post, go to the C section, there is a video of the operation of the release collar. As karak said, align clutch, push release collor towards engine, when the eng/trans are mated, you then have to pull the clutch fork back through the access port on top of the trans on the passenger side to engauge the clutch.

I also find it impossible to mate the engine to the trans with the wastegate on the aspec manifold if have. Yours may be of a different design. cheers, beers and womens rears...

 

O and leave the trans in gear and use somethin(tight pice of pvc pipe) to turn the output shaft so that you can get the teeth on the input shaft and clutch to align...

 

Yea and you just added a search result to the already long list. When people do a search and see this thread iwth a vague title which says nothing, it helps no one.

 

10 years? I never understood car projects that went beyond a year or two. No wonder interest seems to be lost and scrapping is considered. More than a year and it seems like a car would just be an ugly work of sculpture getting dusty in the garage... rather than something fun to drive.

 

Because not everyone has enough funds to finish a project at once. Sometime it requires more patience than you can expect to gather parts and do the job right the first time.

-AzEKnightz

 

I could accept a time argument...as in just not enough time to work on it. Career/job changes, family time demands etc. But if it takes a decade to gather up the needed funds to put it on the road, then it was probably never affordable and IMO, should have never been started.

 

Thanks Rotary and Knockers but I had not even reached that far yet. I just wanted to make sure I didn't put the pressure plate backwards or something stupid like forgetting the collar and doing hours of work for nothing.

I did drop the block in but never got to the point of sucking it inside the trans as it was already dark. So the motor mount bolts have not dropped in the holes. I did find the Exedy twin plate instructions though.

I think next weekend i'll pull it back out and mate the trans on the floor. Both ways are a pia and i'm not sure which way is worse and if i'll regret it.

My Mazda Comp and NASA have both expired and i'd like to hit the track again "with A/C". I have to sell the truck so no more motorcycle track days. Maybe i'll use some of the truck money for some dual parallel turbos like I always wanted. This is definitely my last engine and last build.

 

Well said, make the car driveable and enjoy it. These things are a blast with out that much $$ and a little smarts.

 

pulling the transmission definitely makes life a little easier in aligning the transmission, making sure the pull lock is set on the clutch and installing the engine back into the car. i leave the transmission in the vehicle but time is money.

 

"I did find the Exedy twin plate instructions though." Wait its a twin disc clutch?? The release collar should operate the same as a single.

Try jacking up the transmission until its as high as it will go, basiclly touching the firewall/trans tunnel, but be sure not to damage anything. Its all about the angle of the dangle... Worry about the motor mounts after you have the Eng/trans together.

There is no need to pull the tranny, it can be done in the car.

Aftermarket twins...Just K.I.S.S it with a properly sized single. The added complication dosen't seem worh the gain, if any. Good luck with it

 

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