Hello,

Searched and I keep finding isssues with the large bolt on the fly wheel. The one I need is on the front of the motor and behind the pulleys. According to the shop manual is is a normal bolt (Comes off counterclock wise).

Motor is out of the car
Flywheel removed
Rear Iron off
Rear rotor and rotor housing removed

Remaining- middle plate, rotor housing (front) and a bolt that will not let loose.

What I have done HEAT!! Impact driver (The one I broke the 2 inch bolt off the flywheel) No luck..

Let me know if you have any ideas?

Pic below of the bolt

 

I beleive you were supposed to remove (or loosen) that "before" the large nut on the flywheel. It's usually glued in with loctite which means you need alot more torque (like 1000lbs). I brought my block to my fabricator and he removed it with nitrous tank and titanium impact gun (spun off in a fraction of a blip).

 

As the previous said, the bolt is secured with loctite. Accordingly, it is necessary to heat the bolt first with a torch before attempting to back it out. Heat it for about five minutes and then use your impact wrench to remove it. Just be careful not set anything else on fire in the process.

 

if can't remove:
..heat bolt to unglue red loctite (get mini torch from harbor frieght)
....then:
......1" impact gun (at least 1/2"),
....else,
..Heat bolt to unglue red loctite,
then remove bar from car jack and slip over breaker bar extending to 4' to 6'
end:

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...ric+shaft+bolt

 

What I would do with your mess, assemble the front iron and a rotorhouseing together with several bolts and nuts Then slide the rotor in place . Now stuff some rage in the largest chamber and rotate the shaft to lock it all up .Jack a car up in the air and slide the motor under the car with a slab of wood on top .Lower the car onto the motor to hold it in place .Use your brain and not screw anything up and call me stupid because you cruched your motor . I have a 3/4 inch breaker bar and a 19 mm impack 6 point socket for this job . I unscrew these bolts useing my 88 Grand Am and a 2 by 6 slab of wood .I sometimes need a peice of pipe on the breaker bar .

 

I made a tool that bolts to the front hub and then braces against the engine stand, then I use a 6 point socket and a large breaker and a 4' cheater.

 

It can be a bitch, especially if its the original motor. Heating it helps. You need a really big impact gun like this and a compressor with enough cfm to turn it. Also helps if you lock the flywheel with a tool such as the one Racing Beat sells.
One time I didn't have the gun so I bought a 3/4 inch drive breaker bar, put about a 4 foot pipe over the end of it, locked the flywheel with the tool, and then jacked up a car and set it down on top of the motor so it would sit still while I torqued on it. Sounds crazy but I was in a bind and it worked.

 

Lol just ready your post Garco. At least I'm not the only one.

 

IM railgun69. He has a tool that makes it easy

 

At least I don't have to worry about getting that bolt off of my engine... lol it removed itself on the interstate. Talk about making a mess.

 

Hands down, I always have a MUCH harder time removing the front pulley bolt than the flywheel nut. It's got about 1-2" of thread with solid Loctite on it - that's why it's a bitch to remove.

I usually remove it with a long breaker bar - works great. But, it's MUCH trickier with the engine half apart.

Dale

 

I took one of my motors to a local diesel shop. It wasn't easy for him to get it, but after seeing what we went through, I would've never got it loose. I think I gave the guy $10 even though he said it was free.

 

Yea, me too...not a pretty sight. Oil all over the place, care shakes like a mother and some little interanals fly out that cost a pretty penny. Oh yea and my bearings are prob all fuXX0Red.

If i can remember its screwed in at about 200 ft lb of torque with red locktite. Good luck breaking that.

 

OK.. Not the best Idea, I get that. I guess I will bolt the rear section of the motor together and try and melt the front cover. The last one I pulled apart (I have only pulled aprt one other REW) did not have this issue. I guess it was going to spit out the bolts and a few other components.

Thanks for the harrassment/comments/suggestions.. I will get this animal off the e-shaft soon

 

Before you go and get the thing red hot, just realize that a long cheater bar really does work as others have said. You just have to set it all up and bounce a bit on a 3'-4' bar and it pops it right off. The bar will also help with reassembly when you need to torque that sucker back on.

 

it doesn't necessarily need to be heatened. I did it the first time but changed my mind the second time.

Just find yourself about half a meter of steel chain. Bolt on the chain to one of the treaded holes on the flywheel and the other side to the rear iron. Make sure it is a short as possible and pointing in the right direction.

Then be sure you have a high quality socket and socket bar. Now turn the engine around on the engine stand with the exc shaft bolt facing up.

Make sure you let the bolt soak in WD40 or something similar for at least one night.

Then get yourself a long bar (3meters or more). Have the engine/stand fixed in the corner of the room or by some friends/parents. put some force on the end of the bar. Not at once just giving it pushes and building up force. It should pop loose after some hard pushes.

 

This one made me laugh, but I could see it working.

 

What I would do at this point is count that e-shaft as gone and stick it in a vise. Then use a breaker bar or high powered impact or whatever to tear the rest down. You can pick up a usable used e-shaft pretty cheap.

 

I brought the block to a shop where they work on semi-trucks (Peter Built). I just asked if they had a mechanic that could spare 5 seconds. They said sure. Next thing I know, the bolt is off. 20 min drive to the plant and 5 mins of work (this includes talking to the manager, paging the mechanic, finding the correct impact socket, etc....)

 

This was simpler than just heating the bolt?

I removed two e-shaft bolts over the summer on two different engines. There was no need to go to elaborate lengths to secure the engines or the flywheels or otherwise. Five minutes of heat with a standard torch and two seconds with the impact wrench and I was done.

 

For anyone doing this in the future ( I thought I already wrote this up ). I made a tool using a scrap bottom pulley piece ( the inner pulley piece ) that mounts on the e-shaft hub. It is held in place by 4 bolts. I took this pulley and using 1/4" plate steel and a 6 foot 1" diameter pipe - welded together a tool that bolts the old pulley back up to the btm hub using the 4 bolts. The pipe ( which is welded to the pulley) is positioned on the passenger side of the car when done. An assistant holds this bar steady while you take a high quality, 3/4" - 6 point impact socket with long breaker bar and cheater to ease that bad boy loose. No jerking, just steady power torqueing. It will give every time, I have taken off nearly a dozen of these and they wimper every time and give up

I have picture of this tool but thought I already put it on here long ago.

tom

 

With the exception of the grief from the post this has been a blast.. Most of the time I get nothing or good advice. In this case I got both with some laughs.

Merry Christmas (Kwanza, Hanukkah Bijoy Dibash, etc.)

I have another eccentric shaft and might just use the vise and "Get-r-done"

Appreciate the comments... I hope a moderator uses this thread (Part of it) for others..

I would love to see a picture of the jig BADDDRX7 made. I started looking through his posts and melted my keyboard scrolling through his previous posts (I only made it back a few months!)... BADDRX7 you must have a problem spending time on the RX7Club <jk>

 

I will post a picture of what I am talking about today.

Tom

 

The old Lower-a-Jeep-on-the-motor and mucho heat + 3/4 drive breaker bar with 6 point socket works well for Mr. Huk and I

 

I dug up two photos of what I made - Check it !