Gonzo

I'm new to this BB and I'd like your collective advice from the get go.

Here's my situation: (dont laugh) I bought my wife a 93 RX-7 Touring new. I'm getting ready to give her my old company car and take the RX back so I can begin a long term customization program on it. I've always loved the car and I know it can go a lot faster than it goes now. I need to know from you guys what to do first. I did happen to put Bilstein's on it when I got it.

Its got a couple of problems: the body work is a bit dented...leaned on actually, from the crappy treatment she gave it. Its also a red 93 and it has the paint chipping problem, as well as the console peel thing. I need to know what to do with those two issues. Other than that, it runs like a little top. I'd like it to run much faster. I've already stomped the requisite number of Boxters and Z3's, 'Vettes. I'm in search of bigger game. What should I do first?
Regards,
Gonzo

knightkarr

Do the reliability mods, cooling. New radiator, air separator and maybe a new oil cooler . Keep the engine cool.

mightyslash

OMG how could you do that to a FD?

c00lduke

I plan on doing it in this order

First off if you have the money i would get my motor rebuilt 2/3mm ceramic seals and street porting and silicon vacuum hoses.

1: Boost gauge
2own Pipe
3:AST
4:New exhaust/air intake
5:New ECU--(everyone's favortite) / midpipe
6: Larger IC
7: Single Turbo
8: Larger Injectors
9: Dual friction race clutch
10: New pullies
11: More gauges then I know what to do with
12: Anything that looks good

I probable forgot some things but that about the order I would go

~Luke

petrosc

At the very top of that list, you may want to add new thermostat and temperature gauge. I know they probably could have saved my engine.

Petros

Malachi151

Yeah, #1 repalce thermostat, cause they go bad and then cook the engine.

2 Boost guage (if you don't see a 10-8-10 boost pattern then start getting this problem fixed)
3 Downpipe
4 After market air box
5 ECU Probably an M2 preprogrammed or PFC (tunable )depending on money and if you can find a tuner.
6 CatBack (Muffler)

That right there should be plenty to keep you busy for a year or more IMO unless you just want to throw all kinds fo money and time at it.

RyanREX

Turbo Timer!

I'm getting one soon.

7sweetie

i think turbo timer and boost gauge should be one of the first things also, and make sure you let it warm to normal working temp which is around 81, treat it like a baby, btw are you going with the power fc or haltech computer? i ask because you can watch your car warm up cause it shows the temp, so you know for SURE your car is warm

crnchyfrog

if i'm not mistaken, wasn't there some sort of optional recall done on the 93 FD's w/ paint problems (fade/chip). I don't remember what they were called exactly, but you can get it fixed at little or no cost at the dealer?

hapa

In my opinion the first mod should always be maintanence. I would research all I could about the car's history. I would have the vin # run at your local mazda dealer, to check to see what any Mazda dealer around the country has done to the car including the recalls. Then I would first change the thermostat, fuel filter, maybe the belts depending on wear, have ALL of the fluids changed (i.e. coolant, oil, brakes, etc.). Then I would go through the normal checking on the battery, looking for oil leaks, checking the injectors and fuel pulsation dampener, make sure your main cat. is not clogged, check the airpump, go through your alignment, tires, suspencsion, etc. Once your satisfied the car is up to running condition, I would start my mods like this:

1. downpipe, (saves your engine from heat and spools turbos faster, also Japanese model FD's don't have the precats)
2. boost gauge/h2o temp. gauge you need the boost to watch your turbo system to make sure it's working properly, and if not how to fix it. Temp. gauge, because the stock gauge is a joke.
3. cat-back or intake (personal decision on which is more important)
4. make sure you have addequate fuel for the air your moving through the car. (this means an ecu or fuel pump and or injectors,fuel pressure regulator etc. before you add the intercooler or single turbo) note not all of these fuel mods are necesary, it all depends on your mods.
5. plan out carefully what you mod on the car. The car is a well engineered car, so take your time and do your homework before you start messing with parts.
6. Try not to grin too much when people ask you about your FD.

eric

yzf-r1

iTrader: (1)

the best bang for the buck is:

boost gauge, intake (just buy some $50 K&N cone filters), full exhaust (dp, resonated mp, cat-back), intercooler (M2 or front mount), upgrade ECU, and manual boost controller (13 psi)

300-320 rwhp with those mods....beyond that is high risk and/or high dollar

do not rebuild your motor unless you have low compression, that is BS paranoia

Sloraxe

From what I have learned,
1) Turbo Timer is a must, it will extend the life of your turbo and rule out the problem of letting it cool down after a hard run (witch can lead to detonation).

2) Turbo Gauge: This will allow you to see if you are running proper boost, witch is essential for good performance, I know I was running 0 psi in one of my turbo! this will never happen again.

3) Exhaust and Down pipe: I haven't done these yet but will, buying my parts soon.

4) Intake: Open up your intake with a Power intake system, more air= more power

Other things are optional, some parts fail faster on cars that are mod'ed longer, whatever the situation watch your temp gauge like a hawk, an after market gauge and cooling systems are always good to have, heat is the Achilles heal of the FD.

And NEVER take your car to the dealer! I used to think, deal is ok for some things, but no longer, I cant believe how bad they messed my car up last time I took it in. I'm talking things installed backwards, hoses going to the wrong place's ect ect! Find a shop near where you live that has a mechanic that knows these cars like the back of his hand, these guys can listen to your car and know exacticaly what's wrong with it, and how to fix it.

For parts I have found the RX-7 store pretty reasonable. checkout the staged upgrades here http://www.rx7store.net/stagedupgrades.htm tells you what you get for how much and what it can do for you.

G 's 3rd gen

I would rate a turbo timer LOW on a must to do list..Unless you are on the boost from warm-up until you turn the key off this is useless. The maximum you should let the car idle is no more than 5 minutes w/ hood up at extreme driving conditions. Normal driving conditions (which includes moderate boost) the normal cool down for turbos is 1 minute. If you stay off boost for the last mile or so during a normal excursion your car can be turned off immediatly. Save your money for more important issues...G

stevecod

check your PM.

DamonB

I completely agree. Unless you are absolutely flogging the car a couple mins off boost is all you need to do. And if you ARE flogging the car worst thing you can do is park it with it idling; no air through the oil cooler(s). Best thing to do is drive it off boost for a couple minutes so she can get air through her and then park her; hood up if you can. If you have to park and idle at the track use a garden sprayer to wet the radiator and coolers while it idles; again only for a few minutes.

Just drive slowly through the subdivision on your way home and you'll be fine.

Mr. Stock

I agree turbo timers are a waste of money.

KZ1

yeah the Turbo timer scam is right up there with the new radiator scam, intercooler as reliability mod, and replacing stock AST thing, thank you rob robinette. lol

don't get me wrong these things can be advantageous just not usually in the way people think and sometimes overkill. Here are some things that are often foprgotten. o2 sensor and water thermosensor every 60k

cheers

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

That's my girl

You tell 'em, Hannah

jspecracer7

Well I think that reliable mods are up to you...but don't put in a midpipe before you add fuel to your car i.e. Apexi S-AFC or some type of computer for your car. I've seen many cars that have taken the midpipe out and blow their engine within a month because they didn't have enough fuel. Leave your catalytic converter in until you get an s-afc or a computer...it's a lot cheaper to lose horsepower than blow an engine.

suganuma

its not a scam....none of those are.

no matter what type of car you have, it will benefit from proper warm up and cool down. and no, that doesnt mean just letting it idle sitting there. if you really are driving the **** out of the car you need to give the drivetrain time to cool down along with the engine and turbos. i use a turbo timer to let the car idle for a while after a drive - not matter how i drove it. i use the turbo time b/c i dont really have time to sit there every time i turn the car off.
if your car is overheating at idle, youve got other problems to worry about......especially if only after a few minutes.

it is true that on the stock twins you dont NEED a turbo timer for the turbos necessarily as they are water cooled as well as oil cooled.....but its not going to hurt. and it wont hurt the engine either.

i agree with whoever said it above....before modifying the car....make sure it runs up to stock specs. if there is damage youre just going to cause more by pushing more power through the engine....especially if that damage is internal.

let the engine warm up to 180*F or as hannah said 81*C (shes used to looking at my PFC display) before hitting boost. i personally let the car warm up to about 60-65 before driving anywhere b/c there are some hills around my neighborhood to get out of it. warm up the drivetrain and then engine and THEN get on it hard if you want.

so my list would look something like:

1. diagnostic and make repairs to stock
2. boost gauge (somewhat required to do #1)
3. water temp gauge

then if you want to modify:

1. boost controller - keep boost @10#
2. downpipe
3. intake
4. upgrade EMS
5. catback - up boost to 12# if you choose
6. upgrade fuel pump
7. HF cat
8. upgrade radiator
9. EGT or A/F ratio gauge
10. upgrade IC - up boost to 13#
11. at this point you should probably move to some sort of standalone EMS if you havent already
12. upgrade injectors (1200 or 1300 secondary or 850 in primary)
13. upgrade turbo if you so choose and/or switch to a midpipe

no matter what you do, the most important thing is to keep up your maintanence.
keep in mind these are strictly engine modifications. there are definite stopping points along the way and stages in which you can go in in which in between you should upgrade your suspension setup to handle the increase in power.

anyways.....tahts my short novel of advice....hope i didnt forget anything...but knowing me, i probably did.

good luck with the car...

Gonzo

Thank you all very much. Jeezus, this is a huge laundry list of stuff. Ill be back with more questions.

KibagamiR2

Do not treat it like a baby while driving it, however. Proper warm up and cool down is good, but definetely use the full rpm band while driving. We don't want carbon deposits forming too easily on the housings/rotors.

-Kib