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Old 02-21-06, 02:49 PM
  #26  
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Nothing personal against you DamonB - sorry if it came across as that. Just wanted him to feel a bit better that, for me at least, a loose oil cooler line took 3 months to work its way loose...
Old 02-21-06, 06:58 PM
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In the burnout box...

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Originally Posted by zullo
I hear ya, Damon, and that is a good rule to follow, but my thought was that the long easy highway cruise would be the perfect shakedown for a new motor, and had planned it that way for months. I had a full complement of tools with me for any "situations" that might arise, but hadn't planned on anything catastrophic.

I think my only real mistake was deciding put on those headphones after listening to every little sound the car made for 5 hours... it was at that instant things blew, and I must have missed the warning alarm thanks to Green Day... otherwise it might not have been a big deal.
highway driving is not a good way to break-in a motor... in my opinion that is. but many people would agree that highway driving is not a good break-in. ideally you want a variance in rpms. usually city driving is perfect, you speed varys and speeds never get high. also i dont know how many tools you can fit in your car and how you planned to work on an rx7 on the side of the road the cars are naturally difficuit to work on under. im not hounding you just giving you insight so possibly you or whoever reads this can maybe pick up something and learn from your unfortunate mistake. hopefully everything works out eshafts are a dime a dozen these days so thats one less thing to worry about. good luck and keep us posted!
Old 02-21-06, 07:02 PM
  #28  
jic
volk racing

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sucks to hear..gl on that
and hopefully the motor is ok
Old 02-21-06, 09:16 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by mono4lamar
highway driving is not a good way to break-in a motor... in my opinion that is. but many people would agree that highway driving is not a good break-in.
He said "shake down", not "break-in". When you have surfaces rubbing one another, miles are miles.

Honestly, after taking apart and putting back together one of these engines, I fail to see how varying rpms on break-in is going to make much of a difference. The seals are going to wear into the housing regardless of rpms. I'm not saying you should jump in the car and hit 8000 rpms on a fresh rebuild, but miles are miles.
Old 02-21-06, 09:41 PM
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The seals aren't the main concern on break in. Time on the seals is what it takes. It's the bearings that are so important on break in. I have found good results with long highway driving to break a motor in. Although this is after several days of idleing and searching for leaks/problems.

Good luck on the motor. Hopefully all you need are some bearins and a e-shaft. That sucks after all the hard work.
Old 02-21-06, 09:48 PM
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Originally Posted by rotaryinspired
It's the bearings that are so important on break in.
That depends on if they are new or used.
Old 02-23-06, 10:21 PM
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I was under the asumption they were new. Most FD's I have seen need new bearings.
Old 02-23-06, 10:58 PM
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Originally Posted by rotaryinspired
I was under the asumption they were new. Most FD's I have seen need new bearings.
This is why most people usually say "ask the rebuilder" about the break-in for the motor they just built. While I haven't built or help build a ton of FD motors, the few I have seen/done didn't need to have the bearings replaced. However, they were fairly low mileage engines that failed for other reasons initially (which is pretty typical of a FD motor).
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