My rebuild thread
My rebuild thread
Well against all common sense and good judgement I have decided to rebuild my own motor. I tore it down today and found exactly as suspected. The front rotor nuked an apex seal which destroyed the rotor and nuked the front housing. The irons look like they might be ok but I won't know anything for sure until I take some measurements. I planned to have them machined anyway so I guess that's ok, and I planned on replacing both housings also. The rear rotor is in great shape so that's good!
I have to tell you, that front bolt is my arch ******* enemy!! It took an hour and a half combined and a 3/4 " impact to get that god damn thing off, plus I broke 2 impact sockets
!! I took a bunch of pics that I'll post tomorrow, I'm too tired to do it tonight.
I have to tell you, that front bolt is my arch ******* enemy!! It took an hour and a half combined and a 3/4 " impact to get that god damn thing off, plus I broke 2 impact sockets
!! I took a bunch of pics that I'll post tomorrow, I'm too tired to do it tonight.
LOL,, i scratch my head for a day looking at that pulley bolt,,,,broke my 4ft breaker bar (1/2 inch drive,,, i should have known better),, i tried the heating process to no avail,, but somehow got te suker off by using a 4 foot pipe gripper on a socket,,,dont ask
lol i have a sixty gallon ir compressor that runs on 220 and a half inch ir 2131 that pulls six hundred foot pounds io reverse and it wouldn't do it lol. Oh well time to start measuring the plates.
ok here are some pics.
Here is a pic of that evil bastard known as the front bolt.

this is the rear housing looking to be in pretty good shape

the rear rotor is in good shape but I noticed the outer oil control ring was bad so the whole side and 3 faces of the rotor had pretty good oil residue on them

this is the only mark on the rear housing, you can see it but you can't feel it. No worries as I intend to replace it anyway.

Now here is where the problem starts. 1 apex seal was broke and 2 were pushed in. I assume this is what people mean when the talk about a stuck apex seal.

here'a a shitty pic

this is the rotor housing and front plate, the housing is fucked but the plate isn't as bad.




I'll post better pics of the good and bad rotors later.
Here is a pic of that evil bastard known as the front bolt.

this is the rear housing looking to be in pretty good shape

the rear rotor is in good shape but I noticed the outer oil control ring was bad so the whole side and 3 faces of the rotor had pretty good oil residue on them

this is the only mark on the rear housing, you can see it but you can't feel it. No worries as I intend to replace it anyway.

Now here is where the problem starts. 1 apex seal was broke and 2 were pushed in. I assume this is what people mean when the talk about a stuck apex seal.

here'a a shitty pic

this is the rotor housing and front plate, the housing is fucked but the plate isn't as bad.




I'll post better pics of the good and bad rotors later.
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wow, everything is so shiney! so are you going to snag the thermal bypass elimination kit from pineapple since you tourched the front bolt off? what are your plans for your new motor?
As far as I know the thermal bypass kit is just some lock washers but yes I'm going to do it. It's going back together factory with the exception of a medium street port.
Ok I just took some measurements on the rotor I believed to be good and here's what I got measuring the maz rotor width at the 3 points specified in the manual
point a =3.2000
point b =3.2090
point c = 3.2195
that makes the difference between point a and point c .0195.
If I am reading the manual correctly I am allowed between .0043 - .0083 difference between the 3 points thus making this rotor unusable? I can't wait for bruces video to get here lol.
Edit, I think I misinterpreted. Of those 3 measurements I now believe I am supposed to take the maximum and compare it to the housing width and have between .0043 - .0083 clearance with the minimum usable clearing being .0039. On a side note I am now considering reusing the rear housing if it is forund way within spec.
point a =3.2000
point b =3.2090
point c = 3.2195
that makes the difference between point a and point c .0195.
If I am reading the manual correctly I am allowed between .0043 - .0083 difference between the 3 points thus making this rotor unusable? I can't wait for bruces video to get here lol.
Edit, I think I misinterpreted. Of those 3 measurements I now believe I am supposed to take the maximum and compare it to the housing width and have between .0043 - .0083 clearance with the minimum usable clearing being .0039. On a side note I am now considering reusing the rear housing if it is forund way within spec.
Last edited by Uncle Hungry; Oct 17, 2007 at 09:42 AM.
now I just measured the housing and I got 3.1495. I was under the impression the housing width should be more than the rotor not the other way around. Any info will be appreciated from you veteran rotorheads! Thanks in advance!!!
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 540
Likes: 1
From: STOCKTON, CA / VENTURA, CA
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 540
Likes: 1
From: STOCKTON, CA / VENTURA, CA
if u need help on the port or run into any other engine problems conact rich ( goodfellasfd3s ) he is my engine builder and moderator on the forum. he is also in jersey.
Yeah I've heard nothing but good things about him. Well the irons are at Racing Beat getting lapped and ported. Turns out UPS cracked the rear iron so I just bought a new one with ups's money lol. RB should have the iron's back to me in a few weeks then I'll start worrying about housings..
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its ok im a newb too. i probably would have done da same thing.
