My oil cooler fan
06-17-10, 03:58 PM
#26
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Best bet (i think) is twin 19 rows.... even though the coolers are smaller they are really efficient as they take advantage of the twin bumper openings. Also I really encourage people to get QUALITY oil coolers... mocal/setrab/etc as the efficiency of these higher end units is typically better than the cheaper ones.
06-17-10, 08:20 PM
#28
Incorrect. The cooler itself cannot flow enough air so that the fan would impede airflow.
I use one 25row setrab in stock location with a duct, a shroud and a pair of fans operated by a 200deg t-stat.
Oil temps are rock solid under even the heaviest of loads. Contrary to much opinion, fans on the cooler significantly increase its capacity even at high speed.
An issue I see on many large cooler installations is insufficient area for air to exit the cooler.
I use one 25row setrab in stock location with a duct, a shroud and a pair of fans operated by a 200deg t-stat.
Oil temps are rock solid under even the heaviest of loads. Contrary to much opinion, fans on the cooler significantly increase its capacity even at high speed.
An issue I see on many large cooler installations is insufficient area for air to exit the cooler.
Fans move a fixed volume of air. Assuming that the cooler has ideal inlet and outlet ducting vehicle speed decides how much air flows through the core. I think the question is at what speed will the vehicle naturally move more air through the cooler than the fan, and if your average speed is higher or lower than this decides if the fan is an obstruction.
06-17-10, 08:48 PM
#29
Airflow through the oil cooler fins is not simply a function of vehicle speed, the cooler is a restriction and will need air forced through it. This is why you need air ducts, to increase the pressure and force air through the cooler.
I don't disagree that the fan motor can inhibit airflow through some of the oil cooler fins, but in many cases a fan will be able to force more air through the cooler than relying on ducting and vehicle speed. I haven't tested this (on an FD oil cooler) so I can't guarantee a fan will work better than ducting. Then again, I suspect that most people who are claiming the fan is a bad idea haven't tested this either... or they weren't using a decent fan.
I don't disagree that the fan motor can inhibit airflow through some of the oil cooler fins, but in many cases a fan will be able to force more air through the cooler than relying on ducting and vehicle speed. I haven't tested this (on an FD oil cooler) so I can't guarantee a fan will work better than ducting. Then again, I suspect that most people who are claiming the fan is a bad idea haven't tested this either... or they weren't using a decent fan.
06-17-10, 09:26 PM
#30
Airflow through the oil cooler fins is not simply a function of vehicle speed, the cooler is a restriction and will need air forced through it. This is why you need air ducts, to increase the pressure and force air through the cooler.
I don't disagree that the fan motor can inhibit airflow through some of the oil cooler fins, but in many cases a fan will be able to force more air through the cooler than relying on ducting and vehicle speed. I haven't tested this (on an FD oil cooler) so I can't guarantee a fan will work better than ducting. Then again, I suspect that most people who are claiming the fan is a bad idea haven't tested this either... or they weren't using a decent fan.
I don't disagree that the fan motor can inhibit airflow through some of the oil cooler fins, but in many cases a fan will be able to force more air through the cooler than relying on ducting and vehicle speed. I haven't tested this (on an FD oil cooler) so I can't guarantee a fan will work better than ducting. Then again, I suspect that most people who are claiming the fan is a bad idea haven't tested this either... or they weren't using a decent fan.
In the case of the OP, regardless of how good the fan is ducting will make it better.
06-18-10, 02:49 AM
#33
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Well guess what everyone, if the fan is on, you have already triggered the relay to activate it because the oil temp has gotten too high... now the fan is coming on trying to fix the problem caused by the fan being there in the first place
Good design? No. Well, good for low speed, and low speed only. Having a twin cooler setup with a fan on one side, and none on the other I think would be the best of both worlds
But that's alot of added complexity when you could just put two efficient cores such as mocal or setrab in there. 
The single fan in addition to the twin cooler setup would be nice for low speed courses though, and should not affect normal or high speed driving much. Food for thought,
Heath
06-18-10, 07:56 AM
#34
I agree that the best case would be two high quality oil coolers, both with ducts, and a fan on one of them, and a bumper that has a larger opening to allow for more air flow though
of course, best case is also single turbo, cold air intake, v-mount upgraded radiator, extra large intercooler, an intercooler water sprayer, methanol/water injection, vented hood, a large smooth undertray, relocated battery, running evans NPG+ with water wetter
were I rich, or didn't have a mortgage, or gave up my other hobbies, then I'd probably do all of the aforementioned. Efficient dual oil cooler kits aren't cheap. They seem to run about $800-$1000+ per kit. No thanks.
I've spent $30 on my fan so far, probably $3 on sheet metal to build my duct once I do. Eventually I might install a second oil cooler using a driver side oil cooler or an ebay oil cooler, but I will absolutely not spend $800+ on a kit.
a LOT of FD owners have lots of available funds and spend a ton of money on their cars, just look at the "post pics of your FD" thread, its insane how nice some of those cars are.
Me, I prefer finding functional alternatives for less cost.
what temperatures are you running? and what kind of fans did you use. Reason I'm asking is because when I turn on my oil cooler fan, the thing is pretty much as loud, or louder than my stock rad fans :S
of course, best case is also single turbo, cold air intake, v-mount upgraded radiator, extra large intercooler, an intercooler water sprayer, methanol/water injection, vented hood, a large smooth undertray, relocated battery, running evans NPG+ with water wetter
were I rich, or didn't have a mortgage, or gave up my other hobbies, then I'd probably do all of the aforementioned. Efficient dual oil cooler kits aren't cheap. They seem to run about $800-$1000+ per kit. No thanks.
I've spent $30 on my fan so far, probably $3 on sheet metal to build my duct once I do. Eventually I might install a second oil cooler using a driver side oil cooler or an ebay oil cooler, but I will absolutely not spend $800+ on a kit.
a LOT of FD owners have lots of available funds and spend a ton of money on their cars, just look at the "post pics of your FD" thread, its insane how nice some of those cars are.
Me, I prefer finding functional alternatives for less cost.
I use one 25row setrab in stock location with a duct, a shroud and a pair of fans operated by a 200deg t-stat.
Oil temps are rock solid under even the heaviest of loads. Contrary to much opinion, fans on the cooler significantly increase its capacity even at high speed.
Oil temps are rock solid under even the heaviest of loads. Contrary to much opinion, fans on the cooler significantly increase its capacity even at high speed.
06-19-10, 08:44 PM
#36
Video showing how powerful the oil cooler fan is
I have no way of measuring this but I'm pretty sure I'd have to be traveling pretty fast to generate this much pressure
and REALLLY fast for that fan to actually be a hinderance
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OAOgEAKHzJg
I have no way of measuring this but I'm pretty sure I'd have to be traveling pretty fast to generate this much pressure
and REALLLY fast for that fan to actually be a hinderance
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OAOgEAKHzJg
06-20-10, 12:54 AM
#40
here's one of my laps at the track I'm prepping my car for. Mosport DDT
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UrOWoUtd8Kc
06-20-10, 12:59 AM
#41
the stock oil cooler isn't the easiest to seal properly, my shroud is already against the horizontal metal bars on the cooler. I suppose I could fill in those gaps with some high temp gasket maker or something or aluminum tape, though not sure how aluminum tape will stand up to the oil cooler's temperatures
06-20-10, 09:01 AM
#43
BEST thing to do right now is get an oil temp gauge. Monitor temps and improve ducting or add a second cooler as needed.
Ideal oil temp is right around 212*f (waters boiling point) highest im comfortable with is 230*f, rotary likes the oil much cooler than piston motors.
Ideal oil temp is right around 212*f (waters boiling point) highest im comfortable with is 230*f, rotary likes the oil much cooler than piston motors.
06-20-10, 11:51 AM
#44
You'd be surprised how cheap a used quality 19 or 25 row oil cooler (Setrab, Mocal) can be had on ebay. The hose & fittings are cheap from Summit Racing and Jegs. After all is said and done, you can have a working passenger cooler with lines for $200-300 dollars depending on the oil cooler and fittings/lines you chose. Just stay away from the cheap no name ebay ones.
Here's a low budget solution to seal your duct:
Get some foam tape (comes in a roll & used for sealing a/c) from the hardware and stick it on the inside of the duct. Stick it so the foam extends a little bit from the duct just enough to seal the gap. This will seal it up pretty good and since the foam is on the inside, rather than on the outside of the duct, the air wont be able to force the foam out like a flap (so to speak) and escape through there rather than go through the oil cooler.
You could also use a bicycle inner tube with some rivets & washers (so the rivet doesnt tear the rubber) and seal it from the inside in a similar fashion. This is cheaper than the foam if you have a junk inner at your disposal.
Heres some pictures I did so you can see what I mean. The neon green is the foam:
Here's a low budget solution to seal your duct:
Get some foam tape (comes in a roll & used for sealing a/c) from the hardware and stick it on the inside of the duct. Stick it so the foam extends a little bit from the duct just enough to seal the gap. This will seal it up pretty good and since the foam is on the inside, rather than on the outside of the duct, the air wont be able to force the foam out like a flap (so to speak) and escape through there rather than go through the oil cooler.
You could also use a bicycle inner tube with some rivets & washers (so the rivet doesnt tear the rubber) and seal it from the inside in a similar fashion. This is cheaper than the foam if you have a junk inner at your disposal.
Heres some pictures I did so you can see what I mean. The neon green is the foam:
06-28-10, 02:16 AM
#45
That video is funny.... I actually just got a dual oil cooler kit myself. With dual 25 row Earls Coolers.. THey're not ducted just yet... but i'm going to be doing that hopefully this weekend...
Just out of curiosity where'd you get that sheet metal?
- ap
Just out of curiosity where'd you get that sheet metal?
- ap
06-28-10, 06:59 AM
#46
home depot, its for household ductwork
Just a report back, just got back from the track yesterday.
No overheating problems whatsoever, temperatures were steady at 96°C throughout all of my track sessions (PFC rad fans set to come on at 95°C)
Still no oil temps, haven't figured out where I'm going to mount my sender yet, but cooling down at in the pits, my temps shoot down to 92 degrees after sitting in the pits for about 2 minutes with my heater blowing and hood open.
Just a report back, just got back from the track yesterday.
No overheating problems whatsoever, temperatures were steady at 96°C throughout all of my track sessions (PFC rad fans set to come on at 95°C)
Still no oil temps, haven't figured out where I'm going to mount my sender yet, but cooling down at in the pits, my temps shoot down to 92 degrees after sitting in the pits for about 2 minutes with my heater blowing and hood open.
06-29-10, 10:31 PM
#48
Shrugs, I took 95 from that big fat cooling thread
7. Optimum Temps
65C (150F): too cold. According to service manual, EGR valve is non-operational below 150F, "to improve drivability when cold."
82C (180F): getting warm. Thermostat begins to open, circulating coolant through the radiator. Some coolant is still bypassing the radiator.
95C (203F): fully warm. Thermostat is fully open, not bypassing the radiator at all.
100C (212F): boiling point of pure water at atmospheric pressure.
105C (221F): getting hot. Stock ECU will activate fans to cool the car down. Fan speed will be low, or medium (if A/C is already on).
108C (226F): hot. Stock 93-95 coolant thermoswitch activates, changing fan speeds from low>> medium (or med>>high if A/C is already on) (switching to an FC thermoswitch will change this temp to 203F)
I guess "fully warm" just sounded like a good number to me lol. I'll set it to 85° once I get my laptop plugged in again.
7. Optimum Temps
65C (150F): too cold. According to service manual, EGR valve is non-operational below 150F, "to improve drivability when cold."
82C (180F): getting warm. Thermostat begins to open, circulating coolant through the radiator. Some coolant is still bypassing the radiator.
95C (203F): fully warm. Thermostat is fully open, not bypassing the radiator at all.
100C (212F): boiling point of pure water at atmospheric pressure.
105C (221F): getting hot. Stock ECU will activate fans to cool the car down. Fan speed will be low, or medium (if A/C is already on).
108C (226F): hot. Stock 93-95 coolant thermoswitch activates, changing fan speeds from low>> medium (or med>>high if A/C is already on) (switching to an FC thermoswitch will change this temp to 203F)
I guess "fully warm" just sounded like a good number to me lol. I'll set it to 85° once I get my laptop plugged in again.
06-30-10, 01:08 AM
#49
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I think chuck recommends setting the fan at 90, but I don't have msword on this computer yet so I'll have to check and get back too ya. Or you could get them from him yourself, they're a great reference, don't just change it on my 2 cents. I just gave my personal preference.
07-05-10, 12:58 PM
#50
I was out at the Redline time attack this weekend out here in lancaster at Willow Springs.. and guess what?!......... Mazda trix had two oil coolers.... but they also had 2 Oil cooler fans.. haha. And that car does well over 130 down the back straight... i'm sure if they're doing it...it works.
