You should have the frame checked on a machine I wouldnt take his word... If the rear hatch buckled it was becasue of some kinda of impact through the frame it wouldnt ripple through the panels so that is definetally something you should get checked out. And as far as damage cost... You should do what was previouslly mentioned about taking a little less than blue book keeping the car and paying cash to have it fixxed... With parts and labor if you find a shop to do a cash job will cost around 4k-4.5k... I bought mine in worse condition then yours and I found a guy who fixxed it and painted the whole car and it cost me around 3500-4000 for parts and labor... Good luck it is no-where near unfixxable..

Chris

 

So the insurance adjuster seemed to think there was 12K in damage... but then he couldn't provide me a solid list of parts that added the total up
I (and my father inlaw) think he was being lazy. I completely let him know I wanted my due process before making any RASH decisions. Suddenly he backed down and said lets take it a step at a time (especially when I said I might want to get another appraiser to look at it) and get it to my body shop.
What does my insurance company care? They already told me they will be going after everything including my deductible from the other drivers insurance. DUE PROCESS!!! and that includes a frame machine... nothing out of my or their pockets.

My only thought on the rear hatch is maybe it wasn't secured 100% and the sudden deceleration at impact made the hatch want to open forward only for the latch to catch causing the buckling.

Body shop is doing a tear down and provide an estimate and they already told me they would work with me to make this thing work. They WANT the business right now.

Oh, they even told me they would let me take the care to ASPEC Tuning to ensure the mechanicals are fine.

Sounds like I still have a fight left. I will keep everyone posted.

 

Good luck to you man. Just be careful because it sounds like the insurance company is ready to screw you.

 

It's definitely fixable. The front end isn't that bad at all. I would fix the front end and see if it takes an alignment. Honestly all cars on the road are not strait. When they assemble cars on a factory assembly line the last step is to the frame bench where the bend it to "spec." If the guys insurance company is going to cough up the money take it and buy back the car. I seriously would fix the car then put it on an alignment rack (or just put it on an alignment rack as is) and see how far your camber, caster and toe is out. If theres a significant distortion then bring it to a frame shop. If it can be adjusted drive it

 

99 frontend & rebar ~ 1000
99 replica lights ~200
Fender (I would settle for a used mint one unless I should just go Siebon CF) ~?
CF siebon scoot hood ~ 700
Dashboard ~ ?
Windshield ~ ?
Airbags ~ ?
Hatch ~ ?
2nd Oil cooler ~?
Labor/Paint...

Man it definitely adds up.

 

Man that sucks. Such a pretty car. I love black FDs, I hardly ever see those around with good paint & body. Good luck and MAKE SURE the frame checks out before you get the car rolling again. I wouldn't be too worried about the hatch buckling, if you look at how thin the metal is you can imagine it's not that hard to do. I've seen it happen to other cars' trunks in similar impacts to yours, at slower speeds no less. Nice wheels BTW, what kind and size (offset/diameter/width) are they?

 

Thanks!
Rims are Kazera KZAs.
8.5" on the front running 225/40ZR18
9.5" at the rear running 265/35ZR18

I need to find a price on the recessed Headlight. I have a feeling they would be cheaper than the stock headlight assembly I need to replace.

 

99 spec steering wheel is very nice. a little bit smaller than 93-95 oem. you can find good used one for sale occasionally on ebay or on this forum. I noticed last week that the 99 spec steering wheel appears identical to the one found on the mazdaspeed and mp3 version of protege. I am going to actually compare the two later this week to see if they are indeed identical. Obviously you can find a protege steering wheel w/airbag much cheaper than 99 spec Japanese steering wheel.

 

++++1 i would def do this

 

How much $$$ in parts would be on a standard RX7 and how would I go about parting it out? Obviously I could list everything out on this board, but on items like the engine, turbos (recently rebuilt), trans, what is the best way to part this out? I figure I may be able to get a lower mileage FD if the parts add up.

 

Quick update: The car will be totaled.
Bodyshop guy seems to think I can negotiate $800 for the salvage? Can anyone confirm this or provide your expirience. The more ammo I can provide the better off I am in getting the insurance company to meet my demands.

Depending on the cost of the salvage from the insurance company, there will be a whole slew of '94 parts available(most in phenominal condition). Engine, Trans, Turbos(rebuilt 8K miles ago and I have the documented proof) plus everything else you can think of will be available. Assuming the price is reasonable, and that it is worth my time, I will post this up on the PARTS section soon.

Hopefully this will help me find an even cleaner FD.
Thanks for your help and advice everyone. I appreciate it!

 

ask your insurance company what they'll be willing to pay you for if they let you keep the car, how much they'd deduct or whatever. That'll give you better info than what we can.

 

Update: The insurance company indeed totalled my car(another FD stricken from the roads). Luckily the insurance company treated me very well and I was even able to negotiate getting my aftermarket rims back from the wrecker before it was called "totalled". The cost for getting the car back was obsene so that was not an option and I took the total loss.

I then replaced it with this!
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-rx-7-1993-2002-vehicles-107/94-w-28kmiles-asking-%2420k-obo-798755/

I guess things have a way of working out, huh.

 

dam that sucks

 

How much was the buy back ? I Bought my totaled FD for $1700 back, and sold close to $4k worth of parts.... (was a '94)

 

Could you find out where the car went from the insurance company?

 

definitely. Its gotta be somewhere local for sure.

Edit: Oh and they wanted 4K for the buy back!!

 

OK guys, My insurance company has the car on auction with IAA in aurora IL. Goto https://www.iaai-bid.com/aucsearchbyveh.aspx and search for a 1994 RX7 and you will see it. The auction# is 4837610.

I was told by by claims agent that you have to be a registered Salvage buyer to be able to purchase the vehicle. You can bid online as well. Just thought I would let you all know. I am not sure how the process works from here but the info is there.

 

damn....

 

Man that sucks! $4K seems high for a buy back based on what others were saying was their experience. Find another one and make it yours. You have all winter to find the right one.

Your neighbor to the north...93 CYM

 

Ouch. Hope it all works at man