Zepticon

iTrader: (1)

Hello
Time has come. My girl is getting older, and time is taking its toll on her. Things are not the way they used to be, and togther we have decided that its time for her to get silicone.
The main problem seems to be that she aint sucking like she used to, and i have been told that silicone is a good way to solve this problem. But searching has not made me any wiser, so i was hoping any of you could help me out here.

Are there any kits or recommended products for re-doing the vaccum hoses on the car? I was told that the "rats nest" should be siliconized to make sure everything is working properly.
Are there any premade kits for this, or should i just buy a good quality roll of silicone hose? What brands do you recommend in that case?

TomU

iTrader: (11)

Search the forum, there's a lot out there. Also on the web...

http://davidgeesaman.com/rx7/Hose%20Job%20Writeup.pdf

Viton tubing is supposedly the best. Siliccone is good, but doesn't resist oil as good andf tends to tear using metal clamps, which leave zip ties which don't stand up to heat. There are some types that are more heat resistant such as PEEK.

Zepticon

iTrader: (1)

Aha, tried searching but i used the wrong terms. Not a native english speaker.
Found this set on ebay tho, and it looks okay and less work with a kit:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Silicone-Vacuum-Hose-Kit-92-02-Mazda-RX7-FD3S-TWIN-TURBO-Black-/351036131954?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3ARX-7&hash=item51bb624a72&vxp=mtr
Do you remember the dimensions on the check valve?

airjordan223

iTrader: (8)

You can get the check valves on here from Dale Clark.

Depending on how many you need, I have two left over from when I changed mine last fall.

I got all of my lines from Verocious Motorsports and it was much cheaper than that ebay link and its high quality silicone.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

having just done this, most of the hoses only see vacuum so they can be left alone. secondly i would remove the rack in as close to 1 piece as possible from the car, and then replace the hoses 1 by 1.

for every "i'm replacing my vacuum lines" thread there is another "just did my vacuum hoses and now the car does (or doesn't) do x-y-z" thread. everybody does more damage changing the hoses than they fix.

you should test the check valves and solenoids, although they can pass cold and fail hot.

now is also a good time to replace the metering lines, pulsation damper, and possibly primary fuel injectors, as these all go bad, and are easy to get to with the rack out...

motoron

Yes that is a quality kit from Ebay. Also when removing the old hoses slice them down the side to remove any chance of breaking (especially the ones from plastic nipples).

Zepticon

iTrader: (1)

Thanks guys, a lot of good tips here. The car is a 94, and has only seen 30k miles of use so far.
Would that require new metering lines, pulsation damper, and primary fuel injectors allready? If so, where is a good place to get them?

I have only owned this car for a couple of months, so i am not fully up to speed on the rotary scene.

IRPerformance

iTrader: (41)

boostcontroller.com seems to have the best quality hose now that Hose Techniques keeps almost nothing in stock.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

oh @30k you shoudn't even need to do the hoses. you should check the check valves though, those did go bad @30k...

motoron

All legitimate concerns-however if it was running/boosting properly-injectors will test good-check replace O rings and seals. Fuel lines could be of more concern than a pulsation damper. Metering lines if they look good not scorched re-use. also check injector diffusers for damage/condition. Testing and cleaning of all the solenoids and connections wouldn't hurt.
I just went thru all this myself on a build. Only problem I had was a deflective engine wiring harness at the pcm end of the harness.

FührerTüner

iTrader: (5)

Edit: NVM

adam c

iTrader: (2)

"She aint sucking like she used to" doesnt mean anything. If your car has a problem, and you expect good advice, you need to let us know EXACTLY what that problem is.

Zepticon

iTrader: (1)

I dont know exactly what the problem is. So far the advice i have gotten is to do the vaccums, since they often are a problem that can give a whole lot of different symptomes. The symptomes the person who gave the advice was similar to what i have experienced. And thats why i amde this thread, to get some advice on the vaccum

In addition to that, i have made a post regarding the strange behaviour of my RPM gauge here: https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...azy-s-1067364/

In short, what seems to be the symptomes are:
- Strange begaviour of the RPM gauge
- Hesistation when accelerating (upphill?), usualy when cold

Also, i feel very uncomfortable beeing the "newb" and ask stupid questions, but like i said i have only owned a rotary for a couple of months, and i am still trying to read up. But i was hoping i dindt have to read troubleshooting threads yet

adam c

iTrader: (2)

If I am understanding correctly, your car has hesitation when cold. Does it run fine when warmed up? Does it run fine if you drive it easy when the engine is cold? Is that the only issue that relates to how smooth the engine runs?

Bad vacuum lines generally create idle issues, and problems with turbo activation. That doesn't sound like your problem. There is no sense in replacing vacuum lines if you don't need it. You may cause more problems than you have now.

The Tachometer problem appears to have nothing to do with how the engine is running.

Zepticon

iTrader: (1)

I am not sure you see, i just notice something isnt working properly sometimes when i accelerate. It kinda happends the same place usually, and that is when i go from work, trhough an intersection out on a upphil large road, this require some acceleration to get in and up to speed. This is when the car has been driven for maybe 20 sec.

I have later, after asking here, found that the RX has a known problem around 3k and this could be related. I dont know where in the revrange the turbos come online so i am not sure if they are involved in any way.

I do not have any consistent idle issues either that i know of, except some strange behaviour when the A/C is on and its idling. Do you have any tips on what i should do to isolate the problems even more?

adam c

iTrader: (2)

From what I can tell, the only problem that your car has is that you don't know how to drive it.
How old are you, and how long have you been driving?

Zepticon

iTrader: (1)

28, been driving for 10 years / 100.000k miles

Zepticon

iTrader: (1)

What am i doing wrong then do you think?

airjordan223

iTrader: (8)

How long do you let the car warm up for before driving?

Zepticon

iTrader: (1)

Untill it drops down to regular idle (by that i mean regular before reaching operating temp, 1000rpm ish) and stabilize. And never over 3-4k untill she is properly heated.

motoron

Time to get technical. Put a vacuum/boot gauge on and check at cold idle/ warm idle/
low boost/transitional and high rpm boost. In inches you should have a minimum of 16"at cold idle/17" warm full 10 pounds up to transition of 8 then back to 10 above 4500 rpm. Boot should remain at 10 up to 7500. These are not EXACT figures but should be in the ball park. This may give us some clue if it's a fuel or electrical problem. And remember these cars have a personality different from any naturally aspirated car on acceleration.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

actually the vacuum system will give very specific problems, although they can be intermittent. so the "it might be the vacuum hoses" is like when the Doctor says "well then we have to operate" they are just saying something that sounds good hoping that they don't have to do it.

based on your symptoms i would clean the grounds, and battery connections first. the 3k hesitation is an electrical thing. the turbos should be in boost pretty much instantly, ~2k rpms.

going further than cleaning grounds, you need to actually diagnose stuff, staring with a boost gauge i think. you need more info.

the a/c idle thing is funny, in the us there was a bulletin, and we replaced the ECU's (in the 21st century they would have been reflashed). so not sure what the solution is

with the tach, it is either a bad connection, bad ground, or some kind of ignition problem, possibly related to the hesitation, possibly not. when was the last time it had spark plugs? or had the wires checked? coils?

Zepticon

iTrader: (1)

Okay, well then i ahve learned smething about vaccum and i know whats up wen time comes to fix it. I might even get a set of custom solenoids by then. There are kits for that right?

Will do that! I suspected it might be something electrical so thats why i originaly assumed that the tach trouble was related. Grounds will be cleaned asap.

Any gauges you can recommend? IS there any tutorial i can read up on the diagnosis? I have never owned a Turbo car before so this is all new to me

The A/C is not a huge deal, since i live in norway, and we rarely ahve weather needing A/C. Its just that the last two weeks have been very hot, so i have used the A/C enough to noctice. Ill go with a Apexi at some point so i guess that will solve that issue?

I will take it out and check once i get my daily drive in shape again.
Since i have only owned it for a couple of months, i have no idea when plugs etc was changed. I have slowly started going through the list of things to swap out when getting a new RX. Problem is that i need to order from the US so it takes about two weeks for parts to get here (NGK plugs are 5 times as expensive here as un the US).
So plugs are on the way. I was also thinking about getting new wires when i can spare the coins for them. Will http://www.ebay.com/itm/Magnecor-R-100-Racing-10mm-Spark-Plug-Wires-Mazda-RX7-FD3S-13B-ROTARY-1992-2002-/380486217605?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5896beef85&vxp=mtr do the trick?

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

yes it may well do just that

i don't know about cost, Norway is the most expensive place i have ever been

gracer7-rx7

iTrader: (16)

j9fd3s gave you some really good advice.

Continuing that, I'd advise to replace the spark plugs and spark plug wires and do general maintenance like fuel filter, replace fluids and such. With only 30k miles, it hasn't been used very much so I'd expect the vacuum system to be OK.

The tach issue is a common one but unrelated to any mechanical issues.

The hesitation when accelerating uphill, I'd suggest that the spark plugs and wires and fuel filter should be done first to determine if that will fix the issue. Maintenance trumps modifications.




You would be well served by reading the various threads in the FAQ section: https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...l-links-68640/



Do not take people's advice lightly w/o thinking through and getting other opinions. Knowledgeable people on this forum that have been around a long time don't often respond to questions where the answers are already answered in the FAQs while less experienced will often respond with "try xyz" - sometimes correctly; sometimes not.