Hello all,

I had decided to purchase a motor from CrispyRX7 on the board although didn't think there was anything wrong with mine except maybe a vacuum leak somewhere...

Here are the spec for the new motor:
Street Port (medium) using Pineapple porting templates (both intake and exhaust)
Balenced rotating assembly with excellent rotors
3mm 2 piece apex seals
New OEM water and gas seals
New OEM oil control ring seals
New OEM front and rear main oil seals
All new OEM soft seals everywhere else (dowels, tension bolts, front bolt, etc.)
Competition oil control ring springs
Atkins Oil thermal pellet replacement
Metal front cover gasket
Racing beat light weight (9lb) AL flywheel and CW (CW is balanced to the rotating assm)
New pilot bearing and pilot bearing seal
OEM oil pan

Everyday I get to work on my car for about an hour or 2 since being a grownup sucks and there are other responsibilities...

Thankfully, the car I bought in 05 had about 500miles from a Mazda reman and the bolts aren't too rusty or stuck on.

Now so far in the 4 hours [3 days] I've been working on yanking things out, I have taken most of the coolant and intake stuff.

When I was able to move everything to view the downpipe, I was in question if this was a stock pipe or aftermarket
Can someone identify for me please?




And so far, here is a pic of my engine bay of where I am at for my install






Tonight I will try to tackle the powersteering pump and AC compressor. Anyone got any pointer for taking these off or should I pull the motor and mess it outside of the engine bay?

I appreciate any pointers or info that may help me along this big job.

 

You will need an impact gun to remove the main nut on the power steering pulley. Once it is removed you have easy access to the 4 12mm headed bolts. The AC compressor is also held on with 4 12mm headed bolts, I dont remove the bottom two until I have the engine lifted about 4-5 inches off the sub-frame as it is a bitch to get to them before the engine is elevated. With the right tools you can have them both off in under 20 minutes.

 

Thanks for the procedures....now what about the ps fluid and freon, will I need to drain the fluid and release the freon prior to the compressor and pump or can I still have them attached to the units and just lay them aside?

Once that is accomplished, I'm also thinking I can leave the UIM, rats nest and turbo still bolted to the block, so I can pull it off once the engine is out. I want to try to leave as much on as possible so I can sit the engines side by side. Would that be possible and have enough clearance? Better yet to get to the tranny bolts? The next step I would need to tackle is to separate the tranny from the engine, I've read on here that can be a bitch job

 

If you follow the method DJ seven provided, you don't have to do drain PS fluid or lose refrigerant. You take the pump off and then tie it up out of the way back by the brake booster (don't undo any lines).

And then you take out the 4 bolts that hold the A/C compressor. You can just leve the A/C compressor sitting there and then remove the engine without it.

 

That down pipe is aftermarket, as there are no converters on it. As a tip, take tons of pics and label as much as you can. Good luck!

 

Odd, I'm wondering how I passed emissions 5 years ago, I do have the EGR and air pump, but since Virginia has pretty strict rule, I'd figured eliminating the pre-cat would auto-fail me

 

separated the motor from the tranny, now waiting on lift to hoist the motor out of the engine bay and move everything over.

I was able to pop the release bearing in about 5 mins, got a trick for that...I was surprised how quick it was, since reading from some member on the board and how it took them a long time to do it. I even called Crispy to verify if that was off or not.

But thanks for all who helped chime in on the ps and ac.

I will update more as I come across more problems