My first automatic to manual swap, almost there.
09-26-07, 03:21 PM
#1
My first automatic to manual swap, almost there.
I am currently in the process of swapping my automatic 93 touring RX-7 into a 5 speed manual. I have been working on it for a few days now and would probably be done if I didn't have a stripped out transmission bolt. I had to pull the engine to get the transmission off of the engine and I went ahead and resealed the oil pan with a ton of sealant. I couldn't source a oil pan gasket in the time frame I needed it in so I just sealed it up really good. I pulled the turbos off again because the new set I got was throwing oil 10x as worse as my old ones. I have a few questions and a few answers.
I know that the automatic rear iron is going to have a open hole for where the automatic starter went. I have to get a nut for the extremely long starter bolt because the starter bolt goes into the air rather, unless someone has a alternative route?
The driveshaft does not insert fully into the transmission, is this normal? (Maybe a 1/2" to a 1")
Does the differential gear oil have to be a LSD compatible gear oil or will just a regular 75w90 synthetic such as Royal Purple work?
There is another hole where the tranny bellhousing sticks out past the engine block near the turbos. Is there anyway to cover this?
Will the automatic center console (for the shifter) work for a shift boot? I can probably make it work with super glue but how does the manual one differ?
I've heard the automatic engine harness can be used with a little wiring. Anyone know exactly which wires to switch around? I have a manual trans harness available if that will make it easier. I do not have a clue how to read these wiring schematics. I've found a few pages but it doesn't seem to be helping any.
Change your fuel filter while the differential is not hooked up. Save some headache.
The PPF is a PITA to reinstall by yourself, so save some time and get a friend.
If you use the 3.9 gears in the automatic, the differential companion flange bolt is 26mm.
Sorry if I may have repeated something or omitted information. I am a bit tired from all the extra oil smell I've been huffing all day under the car. Thanks for any help!
I know that the automatic rear iron is going to have a open hole for where the automatic starter went. I have to get a nut for the extremely long starter bolt because the starter bolt goes into the air rather, unless someone has a alternative route?
The driveshaft does not insert fully into the transmission, is this normal? (Maybe a 1/2" to a 1")
Does the differential gear oil have to be a LSD compatible gear oil or will just a regular 75w90 synthetic such as Royal Purple work?
There is another hole where the tranny bellhousing sticks out past the engine block near the turbos. Is there anyway to cover this?
Will the automatic center console (for the shifter) work for a shift boot? I can probably make it work with super glue but how does the manual one differ?
I've heard the automatic engine harness can be used with a little wiring. Anyone know exactly which wires to switch around? I have a manual trans harness available if that will make it easier. I do not have a clue how to read these wiring schematics. I've found a few pages but it doesn't seem to be helping any.
Change your fuel filter while the differential is not hooked up. Save some headache.
The PPF is a PITA to reinstall by yourself, so save some time and get a friend.
If you use the 3.9 gears in the automatic, the differential companion flange bolt is 26mm.
Sorry if I may have repeated something or omitted information. I am a bit tired from all the extra oil smell I've been huffing all day under the car. Thanks for any help!
09-26-07, 03:29 PM
#2
Pictures
Some pictures:
Pedals + 5 speed: http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h2...x/Img_0998.jpg
Hole by starter: http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h2...x/Img_0995.jpg
Under car 5 speed: http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h2...x/undercar.jpg
Engine back in: http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h2...x/Img_0983.jpg
AARON POWERED: http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h2...x/Img_0974.jpg
No more engine: http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h2...x/Img_0978.jpg
Motor hanging: http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h2...x/Img_0976.jpg
New Spec clutch: http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h2...x/Img_0969.jpg
More engine cleaning: http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h2...x/Img_0973.jpg
I have a ton more if anyone is interested.
I used the link style b/c they are 1024x768 and I don't want to lag anyones computer down.
Anyone know which connector this is? Is this on the tranny pigtail or inside the car? I can't find it.
Pedals + 5 speed: http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h2...x/Img_0998.jpg
Hole by starter: http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h2...x/Img_0995.jpg
Under car 5 speed: http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h2...x/undercar.jpg
Engine back in: http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h2...x/Img_0983.jpg
AARON POWERED: http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h2...x/Img_0974.jpg
No more engine: http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h2...x/Img_0978.jpg
Motor hanging: http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h2...x/Img_0976.jpg
New Spec clutch: http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h2...x/Img_0969.jpg
More engine cleaning: http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h2...x/Img_0973.jpg
I have a ton more if anyone is interested.
I used the link style b/c they are 1024x768 and I don't want to lag anyones computer down.
Starter interlock Circuit - How did you do those two wires ? Did you run them to the clutch pedal ? The auto SI circuit is different, it runs two wires down to the auto tranny and allows starting in Park. Look at connector X-05. Find the big blue/white wire and the big brown/red wires. Jumper them together and it will start. Caution - it will start in any gear, clutch pushed in or not. This is how I have my car since the manual conversion - I am aware of the circuit and know to push in the clutch every time.
Tom
Tom
09-26-07, 05:36 PM
#3
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The way I did it was on the transmission wiring harness. The image I attached below shows which connector it is. You want to connect pins 8 & 9 which are the thickest wires on that connector and I if I remember correctly they're red and black. After this my car started up fine.
This image is from K-28 of the workshop manual.
This image is from K-28 of the workshop manual.
11-03-07, 04:41 PM
#4
Thats not an FC...
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hey, im currently doing the same swap into a 93 touring model too.
however, my friend swapped his full motor, harness, ecu and auto tranny + cash for another motor, 5sp harness, PFC+cmdr and 5sp tranny.
i shouldnt have to worry about the neutral safety/neutral interlock circuit since ill be installing the PFC with the 5sp harness. and when i find the 5sp pedals, i wont have to worry about the clutch saftey switch since the car is wired for an AT inside.
on another note, im not sure about the driveshaft issue. i mean, i would assume that the AT and MT driveshafts are specific to each application and CANNNOT be interchanged... can anyone else confirm? my suspicions seem justified since the OP said his AT driveshaft wont fully engage into the tailshaft of the 5sp car.
any tips for closing the AT shifter hole in the tunnel?
however, my friend swapped his full motor, harness, ecu and auto tranny + cash for another motor, 5sp harness, PFC+cmdr and 5sp tranny.
i shouldnt have to worry about the neutral safety/neutral interlock circuit since ill be installing the PFC with the 5sp harness. and when i find the 5sp pedals, i wont have to worry about the clutch saftey switch since the car is wired for an AT inside.
on another note, im not sure about the driveshaft issue. i mean, i would assume that the AT and MT driveshafts are specific to each application and CANNNOT be interchanged... can anyone else confirm? my suspicions seem justified since the OP said his AT driveshaft wont fully engage into the tailshaft of the 5sp car.
any tips for closing the AT shifter hole in the tunnel?
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