My engine GONE!! I'm so sad!!!
08-09-04, 04:35 PM
#51
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I threw a web rage because you not only raised the bs flag but said I pulled info out of my ***. Two assertions that were just plain wrong. And at the same time, you didn't bother to back up your BS flag with any factual information coming from someone with more rotary knowledge/experience than yourself. That's why I was angry. And thinking about my response, perhaps I should have been a bit more kind but given your past record with more than a few individuals on this list, I let you have it. See the thing is, when someone on the list who I've known over the years to be competent in their skills, I trust their judgement. Manny is one of those individuals. You are not. I have tried to offer as much help and insight as I can based on my experiences over the past five years with my 7 and I've done quite a bit of tinkering and gathered much knowledge over the years from numerous sources whom I trust. Sorry, but I"m done with you. You haven't provided one real fact of your own or bothered to look anything up. One could argue you are all heresay and nothing more as well. So what's the point really? I guess it's that you can make up "facts" to suit your needs just as easily as anyone else on the list. My only argument was that there isn't a cure all solution. Only a properly engineered and functioning coolant system prevents a rotary from running too hot. Plain and simple. Evans is not a magic bullet. If your Evans coolant levels are at 140 Celcius, other components inside the engine, including the oil system, are out of their optimal temperature range. Don't come crying when you loose a side, corner or even apex seal due to a flattened spring. Ok, you've eliminated the localized hot spot...now your entire engine is operating in a thermal range 40 to 60 degrees outside it's optimal range. Sounds like a recipie for detonation to me...but of course you pull timing out, enrich your fuel maps, etc...to compensate. Still sound like it's a good deal? How much experience do you have tuning rotaries? Ever messed with a PFC and datalogit? Ever notice there's a function to pull timing when water temperatures reach a certain level? Ever wonder why they offer that? No, I suppose not. No one knows more than you. Well Mr. Smartypants, this Bud Light is for you.
08-09-04, 04:38 PM
#52
built my own engine
i think it's funny you guys consider coolant temp to be the vital stat
oil temp is more vital IMO
and it is also reflective of a hot or normal motor, so stop posting stats from a temp gauge, post both
oil temp is more vital IMO
and it is also reflective of a hot or normal motor, so stop posting stats from a temp gauge, post both
08-09-04, 04:54 PM
#53
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rx7tt95, forgot to answer your question on "who is RTS3GEN", that's "Art" from Florida.
There are only a handful of FD owners on this Forum who track their cars, and even a smaller number of those FD opentrackers have FMICs. Art and I are probably the only two with FMIC--to my knowledge. RTS3GEN is not a frequent poster, but his knowledge is well-known.
Thanks for the props on your above post. I try to back up anything I say with personal experience...good or bad.
Cheers
There are only a handful of FD owners on this Forum who track their cars, and even a smaller number of those FD opentrackers have FMICs. Art and I are probably the only two with FMIC--to my knowledge. RTS3GEN is not a frequent poster, but his knowledge is well-known.
Thanks for the props on your above post. I try to back up anything I say with personal experience...good or bad.
Cheers
08-09-04, 04:57 PM
#54
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Originally Posted by 93BlackFD
i think it's funny you guys consider coolant temp to be the vital stat
oil temp is more vital IMO
and it is also reflective of a hot or normal motor, so stop posting stats from a temp gauge, post both
oil temp is more vital IMO
and it is also reflective of a hot or normal motor, so stop posting stats from a temp gauge, post both
08-09-04, 05:01 PM
#55
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93, that was exactly my point (in several posts!). It's not just the coolant temps that matter (but they do matter).
I'm going to have to hunt Art down...the name sounds very very familiar. I too have a front mount btw...:-) Same as you I believe, 2 row GReddy. I guess my real question would be is it possible, with a front mount, to run Evans and keep the coolant temps within an acceptable (to me) range? Any trouble running 100% coolant at a track event? I know most sanctioning bodies frown on it. Not sure what my group would say (www.performance-drivers-club.com). It's frequently, well ALWAYS 93+ down here during the summer months and on-track temps are even worse. There was a three rotor guy running at Sebring a while back with a front mount. He'd run 5 or 6 hard laps and come in to cool off.
Hey, you've earned the compliment. I picked your brain dozens of times over the past two years regarding offsets, tire setup, etc...You have always been exceptionally helpful.
I'm going to have to hunt Art down...the name sounds very very familiar. I too have a front mount btw...:-) Same as you I believe, 2 row GReddy. I guess my real question would be is it possible, with a front mount, to run Evans and keep the coolant temps within an acceptable (to me) range? Any trouble running 100% coolant at a track event? I know most sanctioning bodies frown on it. Not sure what my group would say (www.performance-drivers-club.com). It's frequently, well ALWAYS 93+ down here during the summer months and on-track temps are even worse. There was a three rotor guy running at Sebring a while back with a front mount. He'd run 5 or 6 hard laps and come in to cool off.
Hey, you've earned the compliment. I picked your brain dozens of times over the past two years regarding offsets, tire setup, etc...You have always been exceptionally helpful.
08-09-04, 05:25 PM
#56
Originally Posted by rx7tt95
Only a properly engineered and functioning coolant system prevents a rotary from running too hot. Plain and simple. Evans is not a magic bullet. If your Evans coolant levels are at 140 Celcius, other components inside the engine, including the oil system, are out of their optimal temperature range. Don't come crying when you loose a side, corner or even apex seal due to a flattened spring. Ok, you've eliminated the localized hot spot...now your entire engine is operating in a thermal range 40 to 60 degrees outside it's optimal range. Sounds like a recipie for detonation to me...but of course you pull timing out, enrich your fuel maps, etc...to compensate. Still sound like it's a good deal? How much experience do you have tuning rotaries? Ever messed with a PFC and datalogit? Ever notice there's a function to pull timing when water temperatures reach a certain level? Ever wonder why they offer that? No, I suppose not. No one knows more than you. Well Mr. Smartypants, this Bud Light is for you.
2. The fan high speed is set for 236F so it is not out of the realm of possibility that the FD was designed to run close to 240F. My PFC does ignition retard at 120C. I have the datalogit and have modified this setting. Fan is set to run immediately at 200F.
3. You're right, Idon't have any experience tuning rotary. But neither have I blown engines tuning. If I remember correctly, didn't you blow at least one tuning with a T-78?? Just b/c one can play with a keyboard, does it make him an expert?
4. I do play a little with the datalogit by interpolating a map tuned by KDR (rich) and a map supposedly tuned by SR (leaner). I have an Aquamist 2S(uninstalled) just in case knock level goes above 40. Does that make me an expert?
5. We still don't have an answer from you regarding factual basis for the critical temp of 240F where supposedly there will be runaway expansion of Aluminum as compared to the cast-iron plates. This assertion stands unsupported even though the car is designed to run close to this temperature as it came from the factory.
6. FWIW, Ferrari runs their F1 cooling system at 3 bar with pure water. Boiling point for water under 3 bar is about 275F.
Last edited by pomanferrari; 08-09-04 at 05:37 PM.
08-09-04, 05:42 PM
#57
Originally Posted by SPOautos
pomanferrari - all those engines that had coolant failure where they Mazda remans? Where did you have them built at? Did they replace all the irons?
Second engine was a reman. Failed at 45K. It turns out that this engine had the marks one make when rebuilding engine. It had two marks, meaning that the parts are being used the third time around. Front rotor coolant seals. Never went above 230 until the it started not to return coolant to the engine. Then one day, the temp gauge went to hot even though the VDO gauge said 230F. I did a block well, got me through another year. It ended up sucking so much coolant, 1 gallon every 10 miles that I decided to replace the engine and turbos.
I'm on the third engine. This one is from Malloy. Looks like brand new housings. CAn't tell about the rotors though but chances they are new. Vacuum 19 at 900 rpm idle.
08-09-04, 08:29 PM
#59
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1) Yeah got a bit zealous there...260F is pretty darn close to 265. Splitting hairs but 140C is way too much. Next time your car is running at 260F, pull over, shut the car off, and turn it right back on. Read your temp gauge on the PFC. Have you pulled your engine apart to check for any abnormal wear to internal components? How do you know there's no ill effect? Ever have your oil analyzed?
2)PFC base map produces high speed fan at 110C. 265F is 126C (rounded down). Most tuners will turn the fans on at between 84 and 93. I have 87, 87, 93 for my settings, about the same as yours. Running 260F in traffic is really leaving no room for error. Wouldn't you agree? Do you think it's advisable to run a rotary this hot? Do you believe an engine operating in the 180 to 200 degree range is probably going to run more efficiently and has less chance of detonation?
3)Yes, I blew a stock OEM engine running a T78 with a modified, larger compressor wheel. How is this a disadvantage? Do you know WHY it blew? Or do you just naturally summise it was my tuning...Assumptions only make an *** out of you. I've attempted things you haven't even considered trying yet. I live and learn and now tune a few select cars in my area. No blown engines. I'm pretty sure I push the envelope a bit harder and I certainly don't have to justify my decisions, especially to you. I've also never lost an engine due to o-ring failure so I guess I'm a few up on you there. It certainly doesn't make me an expert. I, like most, learn while doing and continue to do so. You simply repeat what you've read on this forum, dogma if you will. By installing Evans, you summise it's cured all your issues, as if regular coolant/water was the cause of all your engine failures. Could it be they weren't rebuilt correctly? Could it be out of the realm of possibility a properly built engine would have not suffered the same fate? I ran the stock twins to the tune of 340hp, daily driven hard, for about 65K before I swapped to the single. I did all the tuning for the twins myself and could click off 7.8's-8.0's in the 1/8 like clockwork on street tires. Never had one single glitch.
4) No, it doesn't make you an expert, so stop talking like one. Just because we can all raise the BS flag and accuse people of pulling crap out of their ***, doesn't mean we should. The discussion would have gone much better if you had simply asked "why?"
5)You misunderstood what I was trying to say. Maybe I wasn't clear. Clearances inside the engine at less than optimal temperatures may become critical due to thermal expansion of internals. Aluminum and iron do not expand at the same rate. Mazda designed the cooling system for the oil and coolant to run at a predetermined temperature range. 260F is not in that range. You yourself experienced 0-ring failure due to what you believe to be heat soak created by the stock twins on shutdown. Hrm...so the engine warped. It is possible that an engine with improperly torqued tension bolts could loose a coolant seal due to different expansion rates when run too hot. That's just one of many, you experienced another. Think Evans is going to solve that issue? How? It's possible to score the plates with the corner seal quite severely when one runs too hot. Ever hear of the Quad 4 from GM? Aluminum head, iron block, went through what, five major redesigns due to head gasket failure issues related to different expansion rates, inadequate head bolt pattern/torque issues. See, the thing is, when I ask an engine builder of some repute, one with say 40 years more engine building experience than myself, I listen. If he states it isn't too bright to run a rotary at those temps for extended periods, I tend to believe him.
6)It ain't worth much in this discussion unless Ferrari's using a rotary engine.
2)PFC base map produces high speed fan at 110C. 265F is 126C (rounded down). Most tuners will turn the fans on at between 84 and 93. I have 87, 87, 93 for my settings, about the same as yours. Running 260F in traffic is really leaving no room for error. Wouldn't you agree? Do you think it's advisable to run a rotary this hot? Do you believe an engine operating in the 180 to 200 degree range is probably going to run more efficiently and has less chance of detonation?
3)Yes, I blew a stock OEM engine running a T78 with a modified, larger compressor wheel. How is this a disadvantage? Do you know WHY it blew? Or do you just naturally summise it was my tuning...Assumptions only make an *** out of you. I've attempted things you haven't even considered trying yet. I live and learn and now tune a few select cars in my area. No blown engines. I'm pretty sure I push the envelope a bit harder and I certainly don't have to justify my decisions, especially to you. I've also never lost an engine due to o-ring failure so I guess I'm a few up on you there. It certainly doesn't make me an expert. I, like most, learn while doing and continue to do so. You simply repeat what you've read on this forum, dogma if you will. By installing Evans, you summise it's cured all your issues, as if regular coolant/water was the cause of all your engine failures. Could it be they weren't rebuilt correctly? Could it be out of the realm of possibility a properly built engine would have not suffered the same fate? I ran the stock twins to the tune of 340hp, daily driven hard, for about 65K before I swapped to the single. I did all the tuning for the twins myself and could click off 7.8's-8.0's in the 1/8 like clockwork on street tires. Never had one single glitch.
4) No, it doesn't make you an expert, so stop talking like one. Just because we can all raise the BS flag and accuse people of pulling crap out of their ***, doesn't mean we should. The discussion would have gone much better if you had simply asked "why?"
5)You misunderstood what I was trying to say. Maybe I wasn't clear. Clearances inside the engine at less than optimal temperatures may become critical due to thermal expansion of internals. Aluminum and iron do not expand at the same rate. Mazda designed the cooling system for the oil and coolant to run at a predetermined temperature range. 260F is not in that range. You yourself experienced 0-ring failure due to what you believe to be heat soak created by the stock twins on shutdown. Hrm...so the engine warped. It is possible that an engine with improperly torqued tension bolts could loose a coolant seal due to different expansion rates when run too hot. That's just one of many, you experienced another. Think Evans is going to solve that issue? How? It's possible to score the plates with the corner seal quite severely when one runs too hot. Ever hear of the Quad 4 from GM? Aluminum head, iron block, went through what, five major redesigns due to head gasket failure issues related to different expansion rates, inadequate head bolt pattern/torque issues. See, the thing is, when I ask an engine builder of some repute, one with say 40 years more engine building experience than myself, I listen. If he states it isn't too bright to run a rotary at those temps for extended periods, I tend to believe him.
6)It ain't worth much in this discussion unless Ferrari's using a rotary engine.
08-09-04, 10:05 PM
#60
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Originally Posted by rx7tt95
I'm going to have to hunt Art down...the name sounds very very familiar. I too have a front mount btw...:-) Same as you I believe, 2 row GReddy. I guess my real question would be is it possible, with a front mount, to run Evans and keep the coolant temps within an acceptable (to me) range? Any trouble running 100% coolant at a track event? I know most sanctioning bodies frown on it. Not sure what my group would say (www.performance-drivers-club.com). It's frequently, well ALWAYS 93+ down here during the summer months and on-track temps are even worse. There was a three rotor guy running at Sebring a while back with a front mount. He'd run 5 or 6 hard laps and come in to cool off.
Hey, you've earned the compliment. I picked your brain dozens of times over the past two years regarding offsets, tire setup, etc...You have always been exceptionally helpful.
Hey, you've earned the compliment. I picked your brain dozens of times over the past two years regarding offsets, tire setup, etc...You have always been exceptionally helpful.
By the time I get my motor rebuilt and reinstalled @ Rx7 Store, it will be October before I can tracktest. Ambient temps will drop down to mid 60s, low 70s, so heat won't be an issue then. I'll have to report back next summer on how the Evans NPG+ works out with 88 to 90 F ambient temps.
I wish Po-man would sign up for an opentrack event. Then I could see what hot lapping coolant temps he's seeing at full tilt boogie boost (11-12 psi). I'm not quite sure if Po-man's driving skills will tax his car's cooling capacity...but something tells me he'll drive his FD faster than "Miss Daisy" would LOL
Good luck with your setup. I wish you continued success with it!
Last edited by SleepR1; 08-09-04 at 10:11 PM.
08-10-04, 10:51 AM
#61
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Yeah I've actually been tracking for about three years. The last real MADS event up at VIR a few years back promted me to start. I'd done a story on the local POC/BOC events for a magazine and brought the 7. Before I knew it, they'd assigned me an instructor, I borowed a helmet, and I was outrunning modified 996's before day's end! At that point I was hooked. Unfortunately, I've become more involved in the biz side of driving events as of late and spend more time working them than driving. If/when I go three rotor, I'll get back to more of the driving stuff.
08-10-04, 11:16 AM
#62
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Originally Posted by rx7tt95
Unfortunately, I've become more involved in the biz side of driving events as of late and spend more time working them than driving.
08-10-04, 11:42 AM
#63
Thanks for posting your thoughts. This thread has become very informative. I completely understand both sides of the story. Luckily, Last night I bought another FD.. I guess now I could try NPG+ in this one and see how it runs.. Its an 93 black base with blown water seal.. almost identical problems with my current car.. only 5-10K on reman.. I'm going to keep it stock for now and maybe put the single and test it on this one.
I forgot to snap pics last night.. Me and academytim when up to Nashville last night to buy it and didn't get home until 3AM.. Exhausted from the trip and completely forgot to snap some pics.. Its currently sitting at my friends in Nashville..
I forgot to snap pics last night.. Me and academytim when up to Nashville last night to buy it and didn't get home until 3AM.. Exhausted from the trip and completely forgot to snap some pics.. Its currently sitting at my friends in Nashville..
08-10-04, 12:10 PM
#65
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Originally Posted by herblenny
Thanks for posting your thoughts. This thread has become very informative. I completely understand both sides of the story. Luckily, Last night I bought another FD.. I guess now I could try NPG+ in this one and see how it runs.. Its an 93 black base with blown water seal.. almost identical problems with my current car.. only 5-10K on reman.. I'm going to keep it stock for now and maybe put the single and test it on this one.
08-10-04, 01:09 PM
#66
Originally Posted by INJEN 7
herblenny....so you going to go single on what motor(13B or a 20B)?
Last edited by Herblenny; 08-10-04 at 01:12 PM.
08-10-04, 02:04 PM
#67
Interesting reading I just found.. Its called 'Engine Ice'.. I guess its the solution for NPG+ and Water.. Its was posted on some bike cooling webpage.. what do you guys think??
I acturally use de-i water from work not distill.. I'm thinking about trying this..
Engine Ice is a diluted ratio of PG and Deionized water. The process of de-ionizing water eliminates all of the impurities that can do harm to your cooling system. Regardless if you are using tap, bottled, distilled, spring or R/O (reverse osmosis) waters, it can still contain minute particles of iron, magnesium, rust, lime and calcium. Many of these waters also contain chemicals, such as chlorine, fluorides and acids. Want proof? Take two different brands of distilled waters and perform your own taste test. They each taste different don’t they? If water were water, why would they be different? It’s because of the varying amounts of chemicals and minerals in these waters. These minerals and chemicals are what is the cause of scarring, scaling and mineral build-ups in your cooling system. Many also attribute these minerals and chemicals to water pump seal and gasket failures.
Engine Ice was developed and tested in the heat and humidity of Southern Florida. Tests have proven to reduce operating race temperatures by as much as 50oF in some situations. PG is a lubricant and is a surfactant in itself, meaning it has more capability to draw away more heat than EG-based products and even Water Wetter. It is biodegradable and non-toxic. It will not kill your dog, nor will it kill the plant life at your favorite track or trail. It is also legal in AMA, CCS and FUSA road racing.
Engine Ice has won over 275 National Championship Titles over the last two and a half years including the 2001 AMA 125cc West Supercross Championship with Ernesto Fonseca on the Yamaha of Troy YZ250F and in 2002 Chad Reed in the 125cc West Supercross Championship. You can bet that Yamaha Motor Corporation did extensive testing on Engine Ice prior to putting in into their premier bike in its debut year. It is also used an endorsed by the American Suzuki Amateur Motocross Program. Engine Ice sponsored racer, Darren Luck, won nine (9) CCS class championships in 2002 as well as earned the CCS Florida Expert #1 plate by the largest margin ever. Racers using Engine Ice won seven CCS Race of Champions National Championships at Daytona in 2001 and won an additional eight (8) in 2002.
As for flushing the system, we recommend a very simple and cheap radiator flush.
Go to your local grocery store and buy "White Distilled Vinegar" and mix that 50/50 with some distilled water.
Fill the system with the 50/50 mix, run the bike until warm, let cool, drain and then run clear water through to wash out the vinegar. It's the same idea as cleaning your coffee maker. The vinegar is acidic enough to remove any scale or impurities, but not so harsh that it will harm your delicate seals and gaskets.
Engine Ice was developed and tested in the heat and humidity of Southern Florida. Tests have proven to reduce operating race temperatures by as much as 50oF in some situations. PG is a lubricant and is a surfactant in itself, meaning it has more capability to draw away more heat than EG-based products and even Water Wetter. It is biodegradable and non-toxic. It will not kill your dog, nor will it kill the plant life at your favorite track or trail. It is also legal in AMA, CCS and FUSA road racing.
Engine Ice has won over 275 National Championship Titles over the last two and a half years including the 2001 AMA 125cc West Supercross Championship with Ernesto Fonseca on the Yamaha of Troy YZ250F and in 2002 Chad Reed in the 125cc West Supercross Championship. You can bet that Yamaha Motor Corporation did extensive testing on Engine Ice prior to putting in into their premier bike in its debut year. It is also used an endorsed by the American Suzuki Amateur Motocross Program. Engine Ice sponsored racer, Darren Luck, won nine (9) CCS class championships in 2002 as well as earned the CCS Florida Expert #1 plate by the largest margin ever. Racers using Engine Ice won seven CCS Race of Champions National Championships at Daytona in 2001 and won an additional eight (8) in 2002.
As for flushing the system, we recommend a very simple and cheap radiator flush.
Go to your local grocery store and buy "White Distilled Vinegar" and mix that 50/50 with some distilled water.
Fill the system with the 50/50 mix, run the bike until warm, let cool, drain and then run clear water through to wash out the vinegar. It's the same idea as cleaning your coffee maker. The vinegar is acidic enough to remove any scale or impurities, but not so harsh that it will harm your delicate seals and gaskets.
08-10-04, 02:13 PM
#68
More info..
But automobiles were a little bit different?
We'll start with the "No" portion in regards to automobiles; Newer model street automobiles are equipped with a massive amount of electronic and computerization equipment to keep your car operating at what the manufacturer wants the motor to operate at. One analogy we use is, and we agree it's a bit simplistic, is that even if you filled your radiator with ice cubes, the computer system would hold the thermostat and monitoring equipment until it reaches it's pre-programmed operating temperature. Bottom line is, you'll probably only reduce the temperature by a couple of degrees. If you wish to use Engine Ice Hi-Performance Coolant in your new car in order to take advantage of its purity and environmental aspects, no problem at all. For the environmental reasons alone, we encourage you to use Engine Ice Hi-Performance Coolant.
As for the "Yes" part; used in "open block" cooling systems such as racing motors and older engines, Engine Ice Hi-Performance Coolant offers outstanding performance. We use the term "Open Block" to describe engines without restrictive instruments or thermostats.
We'll start with the "No" portion in regards to automobiles; Newer model street automobiles are equipped with a massive amount of electronic and computerization equipment to keep your car operating at what the manufacturer wants the motor to operate at. One analogy we use is, and we agree it's a bit simplistic, is that even if you filled your radiator with ice cubes, the computer system would hold the thermostat and monitoring equipment until it reaches it's pre-programmed operating temperature. Bottom line is, you'll probably only reduce the temperature by a couple of degrees. If you wish to use Engine Ice Hi-Performance Coolant in your new car in order to take advantage of its purity and environmental aspects, no problem at all. For the environmental reasons alone, we encourage you to use Engine Ice Hi-Performance Coolant.
As for the "Yes" part; used in "open block" cooling systems such as racing motors and older engines, Engine Ice Hi-Performance Coolant offers outstanding performance. We use the term "Open Block" to describe engines without restrictive instruments or thermostats.
08-10-04, 02:26 PM
#69
You know, I looked into this product before the NPG+. It's newer and haven't had as much testing as Evans which I remembered was around in the early 80s. The thing that turned me off was that they didn't have alot of data, just alot of hype: I mean look at the trademark "Engine Ice."
Moreover, I don't know what difference it would be from Sierra which uses PG. And remember, whether it's EG or PG mixed with water, the boiling point is going to be 280F anyway. Regardless, there is still water in the system and therefore you still have the problem of loss of nucleate boiling even before you get to 280F.
Moreover, I don't know what difference it would be from Sierra which uses PG. And remember, whether it's EG or PG mixed with water, the boiling point is going to be 280F anyway. Regardless, there is still water in the system and therefore you still have the problem of loss of nucleate boiling even before you get to 280F.
08-10-04, 02:34 PM
#70
Lives on the Forum
RE: the Engine Ice "hyperbole". I don't think it's the minerals in the water that cause problems. It's the H2O molecules themselves that cause the "electrolysis" of the metal inside the motor and radiator? This is why you mix water with EG, or remove H2O altogether with a waterless coolant like Evans NPG+.
Last edited by SleepR1; 08-10-04 at 02:36 PM.
08-10-04, 02:56 PM
#71
Originally Posted by SleepR1
RE: the Engine Ice "hyperbole". I don't think it's the minerals in the water that cause problems. It's the H2O molecules themselves that cause the "electrolysis" of the metal inside the motor and radiator? This is why you mix water with EG, or remove H2O altogether with a waterless coolant like Evans NPG+.
With NPG+ I saw 0.08 V the entirety 10 months it has been in the car.
To correct a misunderstanding by rxtt95, the car sees 240F in traffic with AC on full blast, not 260F. Without AC, it's 220F.
I got to 260F by installing an AST that didn't have a restriction orifice thus bypassing coolant flow. I have only heard of 260F+ on this forum.
08-10-04, 03:14 PM
#72
Lives on the Forum
Originally Posted by pomanferrari
Water is probably the best universal solvent. It is my understanding that if you run coolant with distilled water, the distilled water will try and leach out the metals in the block unless the coolant is specifically formulated to prevent this. The end result is that there is a voltage differential across the coolant. Try sticking a multi-meter probe into the coolant while the common probe is on the block, set the meter to 5V. You'll see 0.15 to 0.6 volts depending on the condition of your coolant. With NPG+ I saw 0.08 V the entirety 10 months it has been in the car.
To correct a misunderstanding by rxtt95, the car sees 240F in traffic with AC on full blast, not 260F. Without AC, it's 220F. I got to 260F by installing an AST that didn't have a restriction orifice thus bypassing coolant flow. I have only heard of 260F+ on this forum.
08-10-04, 03:42 PM
#73
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Congrats on the new fd. Good luck with your new engine. And totally off topic, I'm so envious of your garage in which you actually have room to work on your car with.
08-10-04, 03:52 PM
#74
Originally Posted by EfiniGirl
Congrats on the new fd. Good luck with your new engine. And totally off topic, I'm so envious of your garage in which you actually have room to work on your car with.
Thanks!! LOL!, You might want to consider living in AL.. houses are cheap and no emissions.. And hard core rotorheads everywhere!!
08-10-04, 04:01 PM
#75
Another thing about flushing your system.. Sounds like something I might want to try??
also here is the link to the Engine ice site: http://www.engineice.cc/
The true performance level of a fluid is hard to judge. Cylinder head temperatures (CHT) were lower at idle than with ethylene glycol (EG) coolant. Whether or not the fluid is capable of exchanging heat any faster then EG I cannot say. The base for Engine Ice is propylene glycol (PG) which is a less toxic base than conventional coolants. During a conversation with Mr. Kimmey, the president of Clyclelogic, it was recommenced that I do a coolant flush with a solution of 1:1 distilled water and distilled vinegar. I almost skipped the flush, due to how clean my coolant came out and the fact I flush my coolant every 18 months/15,000 miles. Despite that, I took the time and added 3 liters of distilled vinegar and 3 liters of distilled water to the cooling system. With the system full of the flushing solution I let the car idle for 8 minutes and then 3 additional minutes with the heater on max. The amount of debris and contaminant that came out was amazing/frightening. After you run the flush through the car, open both drains and remove as much of the solution as you can. Then I suggest you run through at least 15 liters of distilled using the same 8/3 minutes method described above. With that done again open both drains and let the system thoroughly drain. All that's left now is to add the coolant. My car took just shy of 6 liters which worked out to 3 bottles, however you may want to buy 4 just to be safe.