i was working on mine, but opted not to post pics. i have had one on my turboII that functions great! i could care less about looks. i like function. i was going to buy the gb one...but then i thought, why? why the hell would i do that? i know a lady that does excelent polish work and could have this polished for about nothing.
btw, if anyone close (nj area) (say close, because shipping may get expensive) has stuff to get polished, let me know. me and a friend have started getting a ton of random fd and fc parts polished to start an "exchange" program for cheap. this way, we have items *instock* for display, and there will be virtualy no turn around time. as of right now we have about everything you would need from to4 housings to thermo housings.
*note* this is not a gb for items, just offering to exchange if interested. some prices i can remember off the top of my head are the uim for an fd is about $160, alt is $100, fc thermostat housing is about $45....

 

okay I will bite,

Legendr35, the Triple R reagon brace uses differrnt holes on the fender wall, it looks that you used the further most two to the firewall. We found using the others to have a much better mounting base. Further more, yours has 2 right hand threads which means you don't have the same ability to adjust the rod. interesting to find out wether you have enough adjustments to load up the appropriate engine mounts. What are those black things? did you not tap diurectly into the aluminum? ours has both left and right hand taps over 1" into the ends so that they can wholy swallow the entire rod end thread.

also, you have no raised reatining washers on UIM rod-end. this will cause serious problems for the UIM bracket. because the engine does not only torque side-side (with rotation of engine) but also moves back and forthe on the mounts(during hard *****, launching, etc) this will at best bend the UIM bracket, and at worse crack your UIM when it attaches. I know because we tested that setup, and it turned the UIM bracket pretty badly. note I wasn;t using 1/4" aluminum, just a thin sheet metal pice to test the pressure characteristics. The raised washers add clearance for the rod to move on its bearing. those specialty washer are 3$ a piece, BTW.

It is easy to just slap something together, but to do it right is something else. when I did mine by myself, I had to buy 2 taps totaling 25$. My materials cost were much higher. and I had help from a machine shop. Did you use 1/4" or 1.8" aluminum? it looks liek 1/8" 1/4" is very difficult to find, and often the DIY will have to buy a 4ft section at a cost of 25$ to do it. My materials costs were close to 100$. and when I was done, after hours and hours of mindless labour, it still looked like ****.

This is why we organized the GB, so that we all could get professional looking products at a decent price.

look at it his way, Chris and I both have our own, but will be paying to buy new ones in the GB. Also, LegendR35, do you know if the aluminum you used was billet? a lot of that angle stuff is not.

That being said, looks pretty good, I hope it works for you.

 

I understand you guys put a lot of hard work into your project, that's why it's way better than mine.

Thanks, I'll get some of those washers you are talking about, do you know where I can find them? Yea the AL I use is not billet, I know it's not as strong, but I works for me.

Thanks

 

Constructed from Stainless Steel Tubing (not a solid rod) with L/H & R/H threads & AN rodends.

1/4" thick Aluminum UIM Brkt with 12 point AN hardware.

Aluminum 3/32 "U" channel excrusion, for the fender mount, also with AN hardware.

Synthetic Hi Temp rubber vibration isolator.

 

hey sled drivers, that looks sweet dude. I was wondering, where is you get the rubber vibration isolator?

 

where do you guys get this threaded tubing? I can only seem to find threaded rods, and I don't think that would look very good.

So KZ1, since you're buying a new one from the GB, do you want to sell me your old one?

And what are these washers you speak of?

 

garfinkle made one with six counter sink allens in the fender wall to spred the forces out looks good ,cost for the paint and polynuts maybe two dollars

 

garfinkle made one that attaches to the fender wall with six counter sink allens two stock holes four polynuts ,cost for paint and four polynuts he made the tool to put in the polynuts

 

garfinkle made one with six counter sink allens attaching larger plate to the fender wall,used two stock holes and four polynuts to spreaout force ,cost of paint and four polynuts, he made the tool to install the polynuts

 

garfinkle made one with a larger plate attached to the fender wall with six counter sink allen bolts to stock holes and four polynuts , cost for paintand four polynuts, he made the tool to install the polynuts,it looks good for about two dollars

 

Boeing 737 APU Oil cooler duct gasket

Should be able to find it at Home Depot NOT!

The beveled washers under the rodends will alow for the rodend to pivot side to side without contacting the brkt.
You don't have to use a belveled washer, just one that is the size of the rodend bearing, not the size of the rodend to gain more clearance.

 

yes you coudl, but that is a lot of washers. same size washers would work on outside bolt, but where rod end matches to UIM bracket is where the problem lays. You would have to put a few washes there to gaurantee it didn't twist against the bracket.

Is that powder coat? it looks amazing.

 

Polyurithane (sp) with a primer undercoat.
If it's good enough for the exterior of airplanes, it's good enough for me
Plus the price was a "steal"

 

Sled, I like your bracket to the fender, that's what I was looking for! Did you make it or purchase it from something else, I see it is AL 3/32.

 

Hey Sled Driver. I just hope the parts you used are not missing from the next Boeing airliner I fly on!!!!!

 

anyone have any idea where I can get a rubber or any piece that will stop the vibration? I've been looking, but nobody sells them...

 

You have to buy in bulk at most palces to get a sheet of really thick rubber.

 

now thats nice...how much for one for me