My Attempt at a simplified sequential FD
04-30-17, 11:43 PM
#1
My Attempt at a simplified sequential FD
So I know this has been beaten like a dead horse, but from where I was looking, I couldn't find this particular info so I decided to post it.
I recently went to change my spark plug wires as two of them were really corroded on the boot. I couldn't see any possible way to get them changed out without taking off the UIM. This is/was a completely stock FD. Starting to take them all off, I cracked pretty much every vacuum hose and solenoid for the emission system and sequential turbo system. I had planned to eventually do the simplified sequential mod but wasn't really prepared for it at that time, but it was too late as almost everything had broken. When I got the UIM off, I was really overwhelmed with stuff and started to think my car wouldn't run again for a while. I went ahead anyways and ripped off the rats nest, started unplugging all of the stock vacuum lines, and solenoids.
I got them all out and it looked soooo much cleaner. I ordered all new solenoids for just the turbo system and some silicone hoses. I ordered 20 ft of 3.5mm hose and 8ft of 6mm hose. I ended up using about 15ft of the 3.5mm and 5ft of the 6mm hoses. I also ordered 4 viton check valves from Dale Clark. I ended up throwing out the whole rats nest vacuum hard lines and solenoid bracket (except for the part that bolted the coil pack down). In hind sight I would have kept the one piece of the solenoid bracket that bolts to the top of the coil bracket but I went to Home Depot and bought a piece of metal and made that work. I ended up following up the attached simplified sequential vacuum diagram. HUGE thank you to whoever created that! I used brass Tees to tee off on the different solenoids and everything.
I also had to figure out what plugs went with what solenoids so I made this little diagram from the ECU pinout in the FSM. I put everything together and it looked a lot cleaner. Started right up, idled great, and no vacuum leaks. I let the car warm up and took it for a drive.. got under boost.. or tried to anyways and it just wouldn't boost at all. I ended up putting one of the check valves on backwards for the pressure chamber. I switched it around took it for a drive and boost! A good solid 10psi exactly.
I've always been a rotary guy but always FCs. This is my first FD and the first work I've done on a rotary in a good 6 years so I was super happy that I got it running back good.
You can really feel the transition from the first and second turbos! I've seen some people use two manual boost controllers to makethe transition more smooth. Any of you guys have anymore info I can read up on for that?
Anyways, I searched to see what diagram people were using for their simplified sequential and couldn't find any definitive answers on which one worked for sure. I followed this one to the T and it worked out good.. If you guys see anything that maybe incorrect, please let me know!
Thanks,
Frank
I recently went to change my spark plug wires as two of them were really corroded on the boot. I couldn't see any possible way to get them changed out without taking off the UIM. This is/was a completely stock FD. Starting to take them all off, I cracked pretty much every vacuum hose and solenoid for the emission system and sequential turbo system. I had planned to eventually do the simplified sequential mod but wasn't really prepared for it at that time, but it was too late as almost everything had broken. When I got the UIM off, I was really overwhelmed with stuff and started to think my car wouldn't run again for a while. I went ahead anyways and ripped off the rats nest, started unplugging all of the stock vacuum lines, and solenoids.
I got them all out and it looked soooo much cleaner. I ordered all new solenoids for just the turbo system and some silicone hoses. I ordered 20 ft of 3.5mm hose and 8ft of 6mm hose. I ended up using about 15ft of the 3.5mm and 5ft of the 6mm hoses. I also ordered 4 viton check valves from Dale Clark. I ended up throwing out the whole rats nest vacuum hard lines and solenoid bracket (except for the part that bolted the coil pack down). In hind sight I would have kept the one piece of the solenoid bracket that bolts to the top of the coil bracket but I went to Home Depot and bought a piece of metal and made that work. I ended up following up the attached simplified sequential vacuum diagram. HUGE thank you to whoever created that! I used brass Tees to tee off on the different solenoids and everything.
I also had to figure out what plugs went with what solenoids so I made this little diagram from the ECU pinout in the FSM. I put everything together and it looked a lot cleaner. Started right up, idled great, and no vacuum leaks. I let the car warm up and took it for a drive.. got under boost.. or tried to anyways and it just wouldn't boost at all. I ended up putting one of the check valves on backwards for the pressure chamber. I switched it around took it for a drive and boost! A good solid 10psi exactly.
I've always been a rotary guy but always FCs. This is my first FD and the first work I've done on a rotary in a good 6 years so I was super happy that I got it running back good.
You can really feel the transition from the first and second turbos! I've seen some people use two manual boost controllers to makethe transition more smooth. Any of you guys have anymore info I can read up on for that?
Anyways, I searched to see what diagram people were using for their simplified sequential and couldn't find any definitive answers on which one worked for sure. I followed this one to the T and it worked out good.. If you guys see anything that maybe incorrect, please let me know!
Thanks,
Frank
Last edited by FrankV702; 05-01-17 at 12:08 PM.
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RLaoFD (05-07-23)
05-01-17, 11:46 AM
#2
RX-7 Bad Ass
iTrader: (55)
Nice! Really the sequential system doesn't use that many solenoids, most of the solenoids are for emissions. People get really overwhelmed, just look at the parts of the system, it's not as bad as people think.
For smoothing out the transition, best way is a PowerFC and Datalogit. You can lower the transition RPM, I lowered mine about 200-300 RPM and there is no transition, just smooth power. A while back I did it with an AVC-R boost controller, it can control boost by RPM and I was able to dial it out, but the PowerFC is way easier and more reliable over time.
Also, David Clark was my dad, but you're close
Dale
For smoothing out the transition, best way is a PowerFC and Datalogit. You can lower the transition RPM, I lowered mine about 200-300 RPM and there is no transition, just smooth power. A while back I did it with an AVC-R boost controller, it can control boost by RPM and I was able to dial it out, but the PowerFC is way easier and more reliable over time.
Also, David Clark was my dad, but you're close
Dale
05-01-17, 12:11 PM
#3
Thanks Dale! Sorry! Dale Clark** haha. When I posted this, my friend, David was sending me pictures of some STI he just bought.
I have a power FC. No datalogit yet, but I just ordered one yesterday so maybe I'll get it in time to mess around with it this weekend. I've been reading Tuning notes religiously and that's what I was reading last night about the transition rpm.
I have a power FC. No datalogit yet, but I just ordered one yesterday so maybe I'll get it in time to mess around with it this weekend. I've been reading Tuning notes religiously and that's what I was reading last night about the transition rpm.