Ok ill make this as short as I posibly can....
When I bought my car, the air pump (for emmision purposes) did NOT work. I later realized the reason why is because it had a broken air pump connector. I cut off the connector,and toached the bare wirles together. The air pump is now working. So... I finished soldering the wires together, used a heat shrink and then turned the car on,... and the air pump is NOT working anymore.I took apart the wires to check and make sure its good..... it was good, only this time when i toached the bare wires together, the air pump did NOT work
I believe the reason why it didnt work when I finished is because I accidentaly grounded the wires several times and it caused a lot of sparks( im an idiot I know)
I have removed and checked the air pump relay.... it works like a charm. I have tested the air pump itself for continuity....also works perfectly.The air pump is not working beause its not getting power to the pump... so..........
What else could it be??

 

Replace the 15Amp A/C fuse in the box by the Battery.

 

Did you look at the wiring schematic in section "F' of the FSM?

 

I checked the 15 amp a/c fuse with my multimeter for continuity, and it is good. Any other suggestions? and what is the "FSM" I dont know what that is?

 

FSM = Factory Service Manual ;- )

 

Start at the airpump and work your way back - is there voltage on the wiring at the airpump?

 

if you need a air pump i have one....pm me.

 

No, I do not need an air pump, because I tested it for continuity, and it passed the test with flying colors, the problem is that there is NO power getting to the air pump for some reason?? Most likey because I accidentaly ground the wires several times, and it blew something: a fuse, circuit breaker, solenoid, relay etc ( the air pump relay tested good). I dont know where else to look im getting ready to give up! any other suggestions?

 

15 amp a/c fuse in engine bay most likely....next air pump relay near front bumper.

 

I have checked the 15 amp a/c fuse and it tested good for continuity, and I have tested the air pump relay by using jumper cables and connecting it directly to the battery and it did click, so it works. The only thing I can think of, is maby I fryed the wiring somewhere where I cannot get to it, or maby it might be the main relay? in the factory manual it shows that the air pump power goes through this relay too. Here is the diagnosis so far: The air pump itself tested : GOOD for continuity, its not getting power to it, the air pump relay tested: GOOD, It clicks on and off, and the a/c 15 amp fuse also tested : GOOD for continuity.Thanks for the help, if anyone knows any other possibilities PLEASE LET ME KNOW id really appreciate it

 

As some of you may already know, I have previously posted a thread on my air pump problem, ( THE CLUTCH IS NOT TURNING AT ALL) but unfortunatley was unable to fix it. This is my diagnosis so far:

--Air Pump relay is GOOD

--Air pump is GOOD (continuity test)

--Main EGI relay is GOOD

--Wiring between Main relay and air pump relay is GOOD

--15 amp a/c fuse was BLOWN ( I accidentally shorted the wires during my repairs, but I replaced it today, and the air pump is still not working.

SO.... if anyone knows any other possibilities, please let me know id be truley grateful.

BUT if not, then does anyone know if my car will pass smog with an aftermarket highflow cat that does NOT require the use of an air pump/secondary air injection?

 

most likely you did not fry your wiring, if so u definetly would've blown the fuse. maybe there is another bad or loose connector somewhere between the air pump and the relay/fuse box.

if you can't find the problem there would be no reason to go out and change cats, rewiring the air pump to the relay would be easy as hell. just replace the whole wire with another one. most likely your car will not pass emissions without the air pump in use although a flange can always be welded on to the new cat pipe to connect the pump to.

i know you did a continuity test on the air pump, but have you just tried connecting it straight to the battery to see if the clutch engages?

 

no I have not tried that yet. One thing I didnt tell you though is that before I accidently grounded the wires and blew the fuse, I toached the 2 wires to the air pump wires while the car was running, and the clutch engaged, and as I increased the RPM to above 3000, it disengaged like it supposed to, but after I grounded the wires accidentaly, It didnt work at all. Yes I could try what u said, its just a hassle taking the wires apart again...Everytime I take them apart they get weaker and the connection gets worse, but i suppose I cound try it thanks for the help

 

As some of you may already know, I have previously posted a thread on my air pump problem, ( THE CLUTCH IS NOT TURNING AT ALL) but unfortunatley was unable to fix it. This is my diagnosis so far:

--Air Pump relay is GOOD

--Air pump is GOOD (continuity test)

--Main EGI relay is GOOD

--Wiring between Main relay and air pump relay is GOOD

--15 amp a/c fuse was BLOWN ( I accidentally shorted the wires during my repairs, but I replaced it today, and the air pump is still not working.

SO.... if anyone knows any other possibilities, please let me know id be truley grateful.

BUT if not, then does anyone know if my car will pass smog with an aftermarket highflow cat that does NOT require the use of an air pump/secondary air injection?I have heard of RX7s passing smog without thr air pump, only using a quality high flow after market cat. any comments?

 

There is no need to create new threads for the same problem. Just keep posting in your original thread.

 

possibly when u shorted out your wiring (when u blew the fuse), you might have damaged the magnetic coil inside the clutch assembly assuming it's a magnet type clutch (i believe thats how it works). it's just an idea, i'm no expert on the air pumps i don't really know too much about them.

 

Few things here.

First off, I'd test the air pump clutch to rule that out. There's 2 wires on the air pump - get some alligator clip test leads, connect one to 12v positive and the other to ground. With them connected, the front pulley on the airpump should click in and engage. If not, something's wrong with the air pump.

If it passes that test, next would be the wiring to the air pump. Get out the shop manual and look at the wiring diagram for the air pump and check for continuity in the wiring. It's quite possible the wiring in the harness near where it plugs it is broken - that wire is frequently brittle and the wire can be broken. Also, make sure the grey connector for the air pump is good, no bent pins inside, and is making a good connection.

Dale

 

agreed, i had the same problem

broken connector, while fixing it i accidently grounded it out (sparks)

however mine did in fact turn out to be the blown fuse to fix my problem

good thing that sum bitch is OUTTA there now