My 3rd generation acting weird?
#1
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My 3rd generation acting weird?
Hey all!
Yesterday I bought a RX-7 3rd generation, here in Denmark.
On my way home after driving 'bout 100 km, on the Highway, i shifted to fifth gear and suddenly there were no throttle respons.
The rews fell down at a point, where the car hardly could stay ignited.
(I don't know if I could compare it, to a normal 4 cylinder car, where it only runs on 3 of them.)
Now I have got the car toved back to my own garage, and it still can be fired up.
But the engine runs very shitty, and dies out, if I dont keep alive with a little gas.
The engine is allmost standart, and have only got a Blit exhaust system fitted, and some open filters.
Right now I'm very confused, and don't know what to do.
Any suggestions or input?
Regards!
Christian
Yesterday I bought a RX-7 3rd generation, here in Denmark.
On my way home after driving 'bout 100 km, on the Highway, i shifted to fifth gear and suddenly there were no throttle respons.
The rews fell down at a point, where the car hardly could stay ignited.
(I don't know if I could compare it, to a normal 4 cylinder car, where it only runs on 3 of them.)
Now I have got the car toved back to my own garage, and it still can be fired up.
But the engine runs very shitty, and dies out, if I dont keep alive with a little gas.
The engine is allmost standart, and have only got a Blit exhaust system fitted, and some open filters.
Right now I'm very confused, and don't know what to do.
Any suggestions or input?
Regards!
Christian
Last edited by TierSpass; 06-14-08 at 02:30 PM.
#2
Mr. Links
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Two things to start with first:
1. Locate the BOOST SENSOR along the firewall. Make sure the vacuum line on the bottom is still attached to it and the upper intake manifold.
2. Compression test: http://rotaryresurrection.com/3rdgen...ion_check.html
1. Locate the BOOST SENSOR along the firewall. Make sure the vacuum line on the bottom is still attached to it and the upper intake manifold.
2. Compression test: http://rotaryresurrection.com/3rdgen...ion_check.html
#6
F'n Newbie...
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I would also suggest you join www.mazdarotaryclub.com it is the European hub for rotary owners. There is a LOT of information, and very knowledgeable people, here on rx7club.com. However we just can't compare when it comes to locating other owners/shops local to Europe and keeping track with real world events going on there.
Welcome to the wonderful world of the 7 =)
Welcome to the wonderful world of the 7 =)
#7
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Hello again!
Today i tried some of the different things You suggested.
First I chekked the Boost sensor, the vacuum line and the wiring.
And everything about it seems okay.
Next I performed a "poorman's" compression test.
And again, it seemed to work as the compression test guide suggested.
I chekked the plugs, afterwards, and they all had sparks.
Again... I'm totally blank.
Suggestions anyone?
Regards!
Christian
Today i tried some of the different things You suggested.
First I chekked the Boost sensor, the vacuum line and the wiring.
And everything about it seems okay.
Next I performed a "poorman's" compression test.
And again, it seemed to work as the compression test guide suggested.
I chekked the plugs, afterwards, and they all had sparks.
Again... I'm totally blank.
Suggestions anyone?
Regards!
Christian
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#8
Mr. Links
iTrader: (1)
The Poorman's test just checks to see if the engine has "any" compression. You may still have "low" compression. Borrow/buy a piston compression tester and check the engine. If you plan to own one of these cars, I would just buy one. They are typically around $40 USD for them.
#12
Mr. Links
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You need to verify two parts for the compression test:
1st - Even compression on all faces. Make sure that you have even compression across all three faces. If you don't on one rotor or the other, then that's a problem.
2nd - Cold compression tests aren't that accurate but if you are seeing anything under 80 PSI, that's going to be a problem.
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Update!
Here goes; I tried to perform a regular compression test, with the tester we had at work. But because it was made for tests on regular cylinder-motors, i could'nt perform the test proberly.
Well, meanwhile I chekked the spark on all 4 plugs, and it worked.
2 of the plugs were NGK 7's and the other 2 were NGK 9's.
Just to make sure, I bought new ones at my Mazda dealer, and replaced them with NGK 9's, all 4 of them.
That did'nt help, but it cold'nt hurt to change them.
Today I had a visit from a Mazda mechanic, who had a lot of experience with Wankel/rotor engines.
We fired the car up, and he listent to it.
He said that only front rotor ran, and the rear rotor did'nt run at all.
So next step is to perform a prober compression test.
And if it seems to be positiv, I'll check the fuel system.
How does that sound to You, my dear RX-friends?
Regards!
Christian
Here goes; I tried to perform a regular compression test, with the tester we had at work. But because it was made for tests on regular cylinder-motors, i could'nt perform the test proberly.
Well, meanwhile I chekked the spark on all 4 plugs, and it worked.
2 of the plugs were NGK 7's and the other 2 were NGK 9's.
Just to make sure, I bought new ones at my Mazda dealer, and replaced them with NGK 9's, all 4 of them.
That did'nt help, but it cold'nt hurt to change them.
Today I had a visit from a Mazda mechanic, who had a lot of experience with Wankel/rotor engines.
We fired the car up, and he listent to it.
He said that only front rotor ran, and the rear rotor did'nt run at all.
So next step is to perform a prober compression test.
And if it seems to be positiv, I'll check the fuel system.
How does that sound to You, my dear RX-friends?
Regards!
Christian
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It was my first time driving a right-steered car.
I was getting justed to driving it, so I would'nt dare to give it to much throttle.
I was driving 'bout 100 km/h, with quite ow RPM's...
Regards!
Christian
I was getting justed to driving it, so I would'nt dare to give it to much throttle.
I was driving 'bout 100 km/h, with quite ow RPM's...
Regards!
Christian
#17
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http://www.fd3s.net/compression_test.html
http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/3r...ion_check.html
What you are looking for is even compression first, then the highest compression for the rotor.
#18
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ordianry compression tester
ive done a compression test on my j-spec 13btt and i used an ordinary compression tester,but u have to remove the schradder valve in order to have 3 correct pulse readings. i had 85 psi evenly on both rotors on a dry compression test. the motor sound really healthy for a motor with a good amount of miles on em.
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