AT to MT "Trans Swappy McMoots!"
Full Member
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 133
Likes: 0
From: San Francisco, Ca
I did the swap thousands and thousands of miles ago. 1) because I broke the AT and 2) because its much more fun.
I had no idea there was any debate over flywheels and counter weights, so since I couldnt afford 400 bucks for a aftermarket I got a stocker.
IMO there's 2 ways of doin the swap: the rich man way and the poor man way. From a technical standpoint the swap is NOT the most difficult upgrade/repair to do on an FD.
I had no idea there was any debate over flywheels and counter weights, so since I couldnt afford 400 bucks for a aftermarket I got a stocker.
IMO there's 2 ways of doin the swap: the rich man way and the poor man way. From a technical standpoint the swap is NOT the most difficult upgrade/repair to do on an FD.
Thread Starter
TRINGLS
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 1,053
Likes: 0
From: Clermont, FL
It isnt the rear countershaft I am concerned with, they are the same on the AT and MT, it is the front countershaft that is differant. Now I'd love to get a lightweight flywheel but that is another $360ish to spend.
~Kris
~Kris
Originally Posted by dcfc3s
On the counterweight deal - there's some confusion here. First off, manual tranny cars have a big, cast iron flywheel that has a counterweight cast into it. Automatic cars have a small counterweight with the flex plate bolted to it, and the torque converter bolts to the flex plate.
When you get an aftermarket flywheel, guess what? You buy an automatic counterweight to attach to the engine, then bolt the flywheel to the auto counterweight.
So, in doing the swap, just get any aftermarket flywheel that's designed to bolt to an automatic counterweight. Remove the flexplate, bolt the flywheel on, done. You don't even have to break the 54mm e-shaft nut loose.
I'm not doubting the experience of having the engine unbalanced, but really the rotors and counterweights are matched sets. If you run '93-95 rotors, which are all the same manual and automatic, the front counterweights SHOULD be the same, as is the specific weight of the rear counterweight.
Seriously, I would just get a good aftermarket light flywheel and be done with it - just makes the whole process far easier, and it's an upgrade. The weight of the flywheel itself has no bearing - it could be 5 pounds or 500 pounds, the balance is all in the counterweight. Get the flywheel weight that you feel comfortable with driving. Personally, I'd go chromoly or aluminum in the 9 pound range. An AL flywheel is NOT hard to drive at all - maybe if you're a total novice at driving a stick it would be. For the cost, you really don't get a lot of benefit with a steel flywheel - it's just not a lot lighter than stock.
Dale
When you get an aftermarket flywheel, guess what? You buy an automatic counterweight to attach to the engine, then bolt the flywheel to the auto counterweight.
So, in doing the swap, just get any aftermarket flywheel that's designed to bolt to an automatic counterweight. Remove the flexplate, bolt the flywheel on, done. You don't even have to break the 54mm e-shaft nut loose.
I'm not doubting the experience of having the engine unbalanced, but really the rotors and counterweights are matched sets. If you run '93-95 rotors, which are all the same manual and automatic, the front counterweights SHOULD be the same, as is the specific weight of the rear counterweight.
Seriously, I would just get a good aftermarket light flywheel and be done with it - just makes the whole process far easier, and it's an upgrade. The weight of the flywheel itself has no bearing - it could be 5 pounds or 500 pounds, the balance is all in the counterweight. Get the flywheel weight that you feel comfortable with driving. Personally, I'd go chromoly or aluminum in the 9 pound range. An AL flywheel is NOT hard to drive at all - maybe if you're a total novice at driving a stick it would be. For the cost, you really don't get a lot of benefit with a steel flywheel - it's just not a lot lighter than stock.
Dale
Thread Starter
TRINGLS
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 1,053
Likes: 0
From: Clermont, FL
I think I'm gonna try my luchk with the stocker, I have the countershaft so if I ever have the oppertunity to get to it I can replace it. Otherwise if the engine goes I'll just send my core and have a manual reman sent back which will solve the counterweight and bellhousing issues.
Now I PM'd Mahjik about this, I have an M2 ecu coming, I cant use this at all with my automatic can I? Doing so would damage either the ECU or the vehicle? I was wondering if it was anything like the PFC which only looses the 'hold' function. I can try it and see the results no problem but I'm worried if I do I'll damage the ECU that I just spent some pretty pennies on. I already looked at the wiring diagrams but I couldnt really desipher where the ECU was to see the differance in pinouts.
Thanks,
~Kris
Now I PM'd Mahjik about this, I have an M2 ecu coming, I cant use this at all with my automatic can I? Doing so would damage either the ECU or the vehicle? I was wondering if it was anything like the PFC which only looses the 'hold' function. I can try it and see the results no problem but I'm worried if I do I'll damage the ECU that I just spent some pretty pennies on. I already looked at the wiring diagrams but I couldnt really desipher where the ECU was to see the differance in pinouts.
Thanks,
~Kris
Originally Posted by ejmack1
sure i used an aftermarket ECU for ALONG time before getting my PFC
ejmack would be the best person to answer that. If the wiring for the ECU is the same, then you are fine. However, I don't know what goes into wiring for the swap so I have no idea.
Lawn Ornament
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 2,416
Likes: 2
From: St Louis, USA
you are fine to use that ECU before doing any conversion at all...
If you can find a local owner that will let you borrow a Manual ECU then throw it in there and you will see what I mean...
If you can find a local owner that will let you borrow a Manual ECU then throw it in there and you will see what I mean...
Thread Starter
TRINGLS
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 1,053
Likes: 0
From: Clermont, FL
Awesome guys, thanks a mil!
Yea, I had PM'd Mahjik in my search for an answer, he led me to the wiring diagrams that I was havin trouble with.
I didnt want to be dumb and ask the question in a thread unless I really couldnt find it anywhere else. I found other threads referancing it and they gave mixed answers.
Thanks!,
~Kris
Yea, I had PM'd Mahjik in my search for an answer, he led me to the wiring diagrams that I was havin trouble with.
I didnt want to be dumb and ask the question in a thread unless I really couldnt find it anywhere else. I found other threads referancing it and they gave mixed answers.
Thanks!,
~Kris
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 336
Likes: 2
From: Redmond WA
Backwards!
The dealer looked at the VIN, and said my car came out of the factory with a manual transmission. When I bought it, it had an automatic transmission. Somebody must have actually done this...
Now what could have gone wrong with this backwards swap? Apparently they put in a different wiring harness, so checking the wiring diagrams is fun.
The dealer looked at the VIN, and said my car came out of the factory with a manual transmission. When I bought it, it had an automatic transmission. Somebody must have actually done this...
Now what could have gone wrong with this backwards swap? Apparently they put in a different wiring harness, so checking the wiring diagrams is fun.
Newbie
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
From: florida
hey guys im new to this ..... but im also doing the 5 speed swap. the problem i have is that the car i bought had the harness burnt. and since im going to do a 20b swap in the near future i have to get a 5 speed any way. so i purchased a harness and computer on ebay for a stick but when i was connecting the computer together to tthe car i noticed the blue connector is alot bigger on the cars end. does any one know why and what i have to do to correct this?
